Warm Starting

[estland 3]

When cold it starts after ~2 seconds of turning. When the engine has reached normal temps. and then cooled down for some time(30 minutes?) it won't start. Starter turns, but engine is not firing. It starts immidiately on second try(strange...) .Sometimes it starts though after atleast 5 seconds of cranking. Then at first the idle is a bit rough and then rises to normal 900-1000 rpm. Is it ignition or fueling?. I've read so many topics, but no help. Engine doesn't fire when injectors are disconnected, so I think they don't leak. Should I first change all the leads, cap, rotor, etc? I noticed 2 cracks on my distributor cap. Could it be an air leak at intake? Whats more when cold and I floor the gas pedal the engine holds back, sometimes exahust bangs too after releasing the pedal. Also no fault codes.

Long text, but i wanted to give as much information as possible. Engine is XU9JAZ.

Edited June 11, 2012 by estland

[estland 3]

Anybody?

[estland 3]

Can't find the edit button....

Spark plugs are light brown. Fuel is coming from the injectors. I guess it is ignition then... Fuel pump is not priming also.

Edited June 14, 2012 by estland

[jackherer 543]

If your distributor cap is obviously cracked then you should change that and the rotor arm and see what it is like then. It sounds like you have more than one fault TBH.

[estland 3]

Been a while. So far I've chnged the sparkplugs, distributor cap and rotor. Added a non return valve to fuel line too as I suspected the pump. Adjusting the ignition timing fixed the hesitation.

 

Still the car doesn't want to start when reaching atleast 80 degrees and then cooled down for about 20 minutes. Don't know what to check now.. water temp sensor?

[205kenny 7]

Could be temp sensor, if the temp sensor is telling the ecu the car is cold it will be overfueling.

 

Check it with a multimeter.

[bondo 6]

|If it was the temperature sensor your plugs would be wet with unburnt fuel. You say they are light brown (and I assume you mean by that dry),

 

 

 

however If it is overfuelled/flooded then take one plug out and try to start it. It will spin over much faster and then catch (but run horribly on three cylinders). then replace the missing plug and you should be good to go.

[Richie-Van-GTi 71 2 Cars]

Sounds to me like a bad combo of poor ignition timing and AFM adjustment. Sadly most gti's Ive worked on suffer from this. People make little adjustments here and there over the years. before you know it the car is running well below par and niggles appears. Best option would be to start from scratch with the set up. There is a good guide on here somewhere. been a while since I dont it. Fairly certain it starts with winding idle control screw right in and then back out 3 turns, set the dizzy to a couple of degrees retarded if running 95 ron or centre if 97 ron start the car and when warm adjust the AFM screw.

I could be remembering wrong, Im sure a search will confirm.

[estland 3]

Strange that the engine fires(won't run though without throttle) on second crank if I disconnect the sensor and let the engine cool for ~30 minutes. I tested the sensor and it seemed ok, but could it still be faulty? For example underfueling when the engine has cooled.

[Weser 30]

My gti is behaving like this as well at the moment and I think its down to poor set up. Would love to have a link to the guide on how to set it up!

[farmer 328 1 Cars]

My gti is behaving like this as well at the moment and I think its down to poor set up. Would love to have a link to the guide on how to set it up!

 

Take it your local garage i did with mine was set up in no time and runs sweet as a nut

[welshpug 1,657]

Get hold of a haynes workshop manual, its all in there.