[car_overhaul] Zx 16V Project Pt2, Re-Shell And Power Upgrades....

[welshpug 1,657]

Having thought that'll do for today, went back to the house for some coffee and late lunch, got a call from Dan (DCC) asking where I was, as he was outside

 

He had a present for me

 

Pete (MadScientist) had mentioned a few weeks ago that he had a Satchel DCOE pattern inlet that he wasn't using due to the angle not suiting a 205, however as the ZX is somewhat longer in the bonnet department may be of use, conveniently Pete was in Cardiff on a Stag weekend and Dan was passing and picked the inlet up from Pete who had kindly bought it along as Dan now works down west Wales he hadn't had a chance to pop up for a few weeks, and given it was raining today wasn't going to work on his 205.

 

Slung a couple of bolts in quickly and popped it in place on the old Black car.

 

 

looks great....

 

AH.....

 

 

 

 

DOH! the bonnet does close if I slacken the nuts and let the manifold tilt downards a little, but no chance of getting a filter on

 

 

Tons of space around them though, and I think this might work in a 306.

 

 

HMMMM

 

 

[stu8v 68 1 Cars]

Angle the trumpets down slightly, job done :-)

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

Angle the trumpets down slightly, job done :-)

 

Not ideal for flow though.

 

Lower the engine

[stu8v 68 1 Cars]

Not ideal for flow though.

 

Lower the engine

 

True, doubt you would/could measure the differance though.

 

Plus it aint no race car...

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

People have done. There's pages of discussions about inlet lengths and test findings on here, let alone the trumpets directing air at an angle to the butterflies.

 

It's something I have no knowledge on at all per se, but from speaking to Sandy and seeing two different trumpets tested back to back on an engine dyno and discovering the differences surprised me. From that, I imagine a trumpet angle would also make a difference which could be avoided.

 

 

[welshpug 1,657]

altering trumpet angle will not help much in getting a filter on, so I am now helping my brother take some measurements and are CAD'ing the inlet up to see where on the original one the flanges could be mounted for better clearance.

 

Plus it aint no race car...

 

Says who? and why does that matter?

 

[stu8v 68 1 Cars]

altering trumpet angle will not help much in getting a filter on, so I am now helping my brother take some measurements and are CAD'ing the inlet up to see where on the original one the flanges could be mounted for better clearance.

 

 

 

Says who? and why does that matter?

 

 

I dont see a number on the door......

[welshpug 1,657]

Hasnt got the right door on yet

[allye 530 3 Cars]

Going to extend these cables and relocate them across the top of the bulkhead, as they run across the bulkhead stiffener along with the 3 brake pipes, having seen how hot the RFS exhaust manifold gets when I was down at Alvin Powells with Dan and Sandy for Mapping in his 205,and having the wiring loom grommet melt and smoke away, I think it'll be a wise move to replicate the 306 here!

 

Good idea! I melted a couple bungs on the bulkhead on the Rallye as it was a base model shell, thus no heat shield. I covered the bulkhead in heat reflective material which helped cabin temperatures too (think I used bike fairing heat material and heat reflective tape, stuck really well)

 

[welshpug 1,657]

Now then, this is what me and my brother have been up to this evening, he was piloting the computer, I did the measuring.

 

 

Bonnet angle hasn't been measured yet, but we know the trumpets touch at the moment.

 

 

rough guesstimate so far is that the flange needs to be at about 155mm, its currently at 95mm.

 

Valve to head flange short side is roughly 70mm, inlet is roughly 300mm total.

[welshpug 1,657]

got the scrubbing brushed Autoglym engine+machine cleaner, and brake cleaner out this morning, but to no avail on the drivers side wheelarch, I don't know if its some feeble attempt at protecting the paint or just a massive buildup of oil and general s*ite, but it was Black, and its a silver car.

 

 

Black arches are a massive pet hate of mine on many builds, why go to all the effort of paining the body a lovely colour, then making the arches look like you couldn't give a toss and make the whole build look lazy, I'd much rather a body colour clean arch (or white even)

 

So I took a wire brush attachment in a drill and gently went at it to remove the blackness, and any loose surface rust on some sections, treated said rust areas with some Bilt Hamber product, that's the light blue areas.

 

 

I'd love to strip the whole underneath down, but I haven't the time or money so its going to be the areas that need attention only.

[S@m 156]

 

Black arches are a massive pet hate of mine on many builds, why go to all the effort of paining the body a lovely colour, then making the arches look like you couldn't give a toss and make the whole build look lazy, I'd much rather a body colour clean arch (or white even)

 

 

I know the feeling, my friends 205 is white with black inner arches - i'm forever giving him stick about it. Glad to see its not just me who is that sad!

[welshpug 1,657]

I wouldn't call it sad

 

Popped back up to the garage, laid some primer in the arches, ran out, gave upon that.

 

Decided to strip the old engine down ot make it easier to move around, spent a while cursing whichever pug/citroen designer used T30 bolts on the front of the intake manifold, as half od them were fudged from rust, not to worry though as 10 and 11mm 12 point sockets hammered on worked a treat.

 

Found a nice remanufactured starter motor.

 

 

and a comedy speedo cable pin location.

 

 

as well as lots of oily rusty grubbyness, and some comedy cooling pipework.

[welshpug 1,657]

Apologies to anyone mildly interested, been trying to get hold of the brake pipes and bulkhead heatshield and not feeling great for a while, motivation levels almost non-existant.

 

About a week ago I did some grinding away with the wire brush and applied some rust eater, had a poke a few days later and found a hole crap pic, but its right next to the subframe mounting section, as time is sparse I got some 2mm plate and extended that section down covering the hole, bit tricky and not the best welds, but its on and stuck

 

 

then gave it a shot of primer and some crappy white paint I Had lying about.

 

 

then dug out the tubing I bought off ebay to sort the engine bay brake pipe re-routing, as weel as sort the rotten bits.

 

 

I quite enjoy doing this actually, I'd love some more tooling to make it easier as its very satisfying getting it looking as it should from the factory, nearly.

 

 

 

will do more tomorrow hopefully as Dan (chipstick) has posted me a load of bits which should be at work by now.

[welshpug 1,657]

Done a bit more!! Dan's parcel had indeed arrived, thanks Dan

 

Stuck the heatshield in place to see what I needed to do to get it secured.

 

 

 

the lower stud is already there and secures the upper exhaust tunnel heatshield, the two holes further to the right on the strengthening section are already there, leaving only one fresh hole to be drilled! I have a rivnut Gun and some Stainless steel caphead screws, the upper most stud is already present.

 

onto the brake lines, and here's the DOH! moment, I couldn;'t figure out how they were meant to sit, then it dawned on me that Dan's xsara must have been a fairly early car prior to PSA deciding top shift the brake lines up the bulkhead!

 

Still, there were a few unions and clips I can re-use, so cracked on with a brake line, now I remember why I wanted to buy a Decent Sykes-Pickavant flaring tool, you have to wind this thing pretty tight for Copper-Nickel tube to stay put as you wind the die down!

 

Mostly bent up and placed in the clips to get an idea of where to route it.

 

 

Also fitted the Servo vacuum hose Dan sent and bent the original pipes up roughly where I will stick the new ones

 

[rallyeash 155]

noticed your banned from the 6 forum?

[welshpug 1,657]

yeah, so?

 

 

just got these....

 

 

 

8x15 ET0, so not sure if they'll fit under the 205's arches.

 

but there's this very useful web page here called Will they fit.com and it looks like there's a slim chance, the ZX arches are a little roomier though

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Nice wheels

[welshpug 1,657]

Ta cost me £205 on ebay a few months ago, collection only but the guy lives about 4 miles from my brother in Manchester and was happy to drop them off, and my brother was visiting this evening.

 

 

They look to be missing the Inserts that these use, the bolt holes are about 23mm, also the centre bore is standard ford so 63.3mm and will need taking out 1.7mm.

[rallyeash 155]

wheels look ace.

 

haha just wondered why...

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

They do fit, but you need to pull the fronts out

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

My Xsara was a '97 Mei.

 

So are you going to route your lines in what looks to be the original position up and over, or go along and behind that heat shield as per the Xsara?

[welshpug 1,657]

up and over Dan.

 

Got more done today, drilled the two holes to 9mm and added the third one, popped some rivnuts in.

 

 

Then started the faffage with the brake pipes, found my el-cheapo flaring tool really doesn't work on Copper-nickel tubing so gave up on that and used my Copper pipe, I can;t afford a proper Sykes tool at the moment but the most awkward pipe to replace I have managed to sort in copper-nickel so if I really want to I can do the rest again at a later date.

 

Popped a pair of 7mm holes in the scuttle and added some clips.

 

 

 

Heatshield in place, looking good

 

[welshpug 1,657]

Got the heater pipes clipped in, what a doddle with no engine in the way

 

Bolted the heatshield down properly, and stripped some ancillaries off the old lump.

 

 

Need to sweep the floor out under the car then drop my engine in.

 

[welshpug 1,657]

Done naff all for a little while again, but today got a fair chunk achieved.

 

I'd removed the driveshaft nuts a few weeks back, so to get the shafts out was easy enough, wheel off bottom balljoint removed and shaft pulled out, drained the oil whilst faffing about supporting the RHS of the car (it's on a slight slope which makes everything a PITA, and a bit dodgy :ninja ) undid the two 11mm nuts on the Intermediate driveshaft bearing carrier and whipped that shaft out, oh the wonders of working on a car you've already had apart, no seized bolts!

 

Bought some ratchet straps, only girly ghey ass skinny ones, but they were all I could find and be bothered to hunt for, slung a 2" dia bar resting on some wood across the bay and popped both straps around the engine.

 

 

Undid the downpipe to manifold 10mm's, then removed the LHS engine/transmission mounting and cradle.

 

Marked up the clutch arm+shaft, removed the wiring support bracket, popped the clutch arm off then the starter motor.

 

 

removed the remaining bolts, pulled the box off the engine.

 

 

 

So at the mo its sat on a trolley jack and two engine mountings with a T-bar stopping it swinging forwards, waiting to be whipped out which I might do later with a hand off my brother.