306 Cab Grinding Noise On Acceleration

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

Just picked up a 306 cab from Anthony (maccarroni) and i must say im very pleased with it

 

just a couple of little things that need adressing:

 

under hard acceleration i get a knocking/grinding noise from the drivers side (under the pedals) its fine when stationary and when crusing along it only does it when pulling away hard?

 

im thinking either lower mount, or possibly cv joint or long shaft bearing? or maybe even wheel bearing although it has ha d a recent mot with nothing on the advisory.

 

also the passenger leccy window doesnt work (it clicks on the motor but wont move at all) im guessing just the motor needs doing but question is what model kit will fit? any 306 three door? or would a 405 one fit by any chance as i have four up in the loft?

 

also just found out i cant get into the boot? was working earlier now wont pop when you push the button, any way around this?

 

cheers

Edited May 19, 2012 by pugpete1108

[damien 22 1 Cars]

i would have a look at the lower mount first, the 306 used to grind when turning left at speed, it was abit of play in the lower mount.

 

ive got a drivers side leccy window motor if thats any good to you

 

the cab boots have always been a pain in the ass, have you tryed putting the key in and pushing it, or turning and pushing at the same time, maybe turning then pushing....

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

Was gone check to mount this morning mate.

 

Will a drivers motor work? I thought they were sided?

 

Sorted the boot now the c/locking locks it but doesn't lock it. It's ok on the key think god

[Tom Fenton 1,548]

Have you got the handbook with it, I think the boot is supposed to work like that, it is so you can leave it parked with the roof off, put your valuables in the boot, but if someone reaches in and unlocks the doors from the inside, the central locking doesn't operate the boot, so the boot stays locked. I'm sure Henry has told me his CTi does this so perhaps the 306 cabs do as well.

[BlueBolt 156]

Have you got the handbook with it, I think the boot is supposed to work like that, it is so you can leave it parked with the roof off, put your valuables in the boot, but if someone reaches in and unlocks the doors from the inside, the central locking doesn't operate the boot, so the boot stays locked. I'm sure Henry has told me his CTi does this so perhaps the 306 cabs do as well.

 

Sounds like a reasonable assumption!!

 

The grinding noise would be good to hear what it is... I had this when my car came back from Miles, well, a couple of days after it came back, didn't happen till really pulling hard and high in the range, but then got to be happening lower down the revs more and happening when not accelerating as hard etc... Changed 'box yesterday, not noticed it since then!! Wondered if it could have been the 'box...

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

Well I've had a little nose about.

 

The mount is fine the long driveshaft outer joint is covered in cv grease so I'm guessing it's that.

 

Also the exhaust is fairly close to the subframe and is a loose fit on the olive joint before the centre box so it may even be that?

 

And yeah I just read that about the boot Tom . Bloody good idea that and makes total sense now.

 

Anyway no immediate danger. I'll sort the exhaust along with the shaft (also looks like its got a leaky shaft seal or diff casing too which can be done at the same time )

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

well either ive had some real bad luck or ive been sold a lemon

 

speedo has now stopped working and the fan when it kicks in looks like its going to fall off its mount.

 

also get up to temp real quick when in traffic (i understand its higher milage car) i mean to 1 bar below the red.

 

i can see a match being taken to this very soon.

[damien 22 1 Cars]

ouch,

had the cable come off the gearbox end of the speedo cable?

mite be worth draining the coolent, fitting some new stuff and make sure its all blead right.

the fan mite of just come lose if its running at high speed all the time (if the coolent is naff)

 

is it the 1.8 16v, the same thats in my estate?

alot of the 2.0l xsi engines parts are interchangeable i.e coilpacks, manifolds etc..

[dcc 855]

take your time. You seemed to have rushed into buying a cheap car. It is going to have a few issues.

 

Make sure you get the CV joint sorted asap.

 

These engines, as mentioned, are very difficult to bleed. Took me about 15 minutes to bleed one for a mate of mine.... his temp's went down drastically.

 

I assume the speedo was working when you bought the car? as damien has said have a look at the sender. if its not clipped in properly they can and will come off.firstly, if it were me, id make a list of whats wrong with the car and just work through them bit by bit

[BlueBolt 156]

Have you checked the earth for the window winder?? My 205 drivers side wasn't working when I got it and I found it to be the earth, that clicked like you say your passenger side does too...

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

right well, ive been having a look over this issues this afternoon

 

main one is the overheating, i can deal with the rest in time.

 

i've managed to get the speedo working again (removed the shunt fuse and waited then replaced it) if only a temporary fix.

 

the window moves down slightly (maybe 20mm) then jams, then wont go up without some 'assistance'. it all looks lubed up ok so i guess its the cable or motor that is jamming?

 

with regards to the fans: should i have two fans working? a high and a low speed one? when looking from the front only the right hand one works and this is only when it hits near the red. the other one doesnt work at all.

the left hand one squeaks when you turn it by hand (very stiff to move and it seems like its rubbing on the housing) the right hand one has loads of front to back/up and down play in it and is not spinning at full speed all the time as if its out of balance.

 

my plan is to grab a new complete fan setup with both fans and surrounds etc, then strip it all out and replace along with the coolant etc.

 

i should say i knew about the knocking noise (which i now think is the exhaust on the subframe) and the leccy window when i bought it.

 

it just seems everything is breaking on me, you'd think i was used to dodgy french cars by now

Edited May 20, 2012 by pugpete1108

[damien 22 1 Cars]

sounds like the window motor has passed it, they are a right pig to change.

 

i take it youve got non-working air con? only air con models have 2 fans, to test them remove the brown coolant plug on the thermostat with the key in the 2nd position or with the engine running, the fans (both) should start on slow speed then after about 3 sec should spin up in high speed.

that should test the fans to see if they are both working right.

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

yeah they look a pig to do....great

 

just unplugged it and only the right side one works.

 

and yeah non working (well i dont think so even tough i have a reciept for a regas last year)

Edited May 20, 2012 by pugpete1108

[damien 22 1 Cars]

she be broken then...

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

you rekon replacing the whole lot will do it?

 

is the left one a low speed one set at a lower temp.

[damien 22 1 Cars]

when you unplug the brown plug both fans should kick in (they have done on all my 306's) and ive just been out to test it on the estate.

i wouldnt know if its one for low speed but both should come on at high speed,

i know the rallyes/lower non a/c models only have the one fan but have the housing for 2 (abit like 205s having 1 but the devs having 2).

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

ok mate cheers, im off to the scrappy then tomorrow

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

ffs i have no fans now at all and after 5 mins idling it goes straight to the red.

[macaroni 17 1 Cars]

Crikey, just been alerted to this thread! I'm truly sorry you've found so many issues!

 

The boot is supposed to be on the key, its so you can have somewhere secure with the top down.

The window needs a new regulator, not a new motor.

I thought I'd fixed the knocking under load with a new wishbone, but clearly not. However, if it is the exhaust touching the body, that is a cheaper and easier fix than the suspected driveshaft bearing we discussed.

 

I fitted a new speedo sensor the other day and it worked fine since.

 

As for the overheating, I've never had a problem and I spent a good 15 mins in a traffic jam every day in it. I could feel the fan(s) kick in when it got hot and the temp came down.

 

We're discussing this by PM to get a resolution.

[damien 22 1 Cars]

ive got nothing big planned for the week if you want we could have a noise over it together....

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

Could do mate,I'm on lates all week so would need to be am?

[damien 22 1 Cars]

ive got school runs in the morning/afternoon so as long as im back in around for them all is cool, just let me know whats good for you (not today tho ive got drs all day)

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

picked up a full twin fan setup today and welded the olive joint just after the cat so the exhaust doesnt hit the subfram and hey presto no more noise.

 

looked at the vss sensor and it had come apart? the bit the plug goes on to has seperated from the main body (que dodgy cable tie jobbie) and it now works as a temp fix until i can get another one

[damien 22 1 Cars]

nice one,what scrappy do you go to?

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

Woodgates at high halden