mech205eng 11 Posted May 9, 2012 Got to the stage now to mount my seats in my project car. Just managed to get a pair of sparco pro2000's, made in 08 but still buth sealed in original platic and boxes. I'll be mounting these in fixed with some aluminium side mounts. I will be securing my side mounts to 1"x1" mild steel box section that i'll be welding in. I need my seats in low, not that im super tall (just over 6 foot) but i want my head as far away from the cage as possible. I already know that the exhaust tunnels in the way and i'll be cutting some of this out and re-fabricating the sides. All i want really is other peoples photos of their floors with seats removed, to see how much of the tunnel they've cut out just to get an idea. Or any advice that'll save me time at this point. Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,536 Posted May 9, 2012 Plenty of example pictures if you search around. But basically you want to remove the "hump" in the tunnel and make it so it ends up "straight sided". Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cameron 16 Posted May 9, 2012 (edited) Search Query: +Seat +Lower Edit: Note that MSA regs stipulate 3mm thick spreader plates to be used where seat mounting bolts pass through the original bodywork - this does not mean all your sheet metal & box section needs to be. Edited May 9, 2012 by Cameron Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Atari Boy 11 Posted May 9, 2012 When I did mine as Tom suggests, it created clearance issues with the middle exhaust box as there is less space to fit flush with the car so I had to go for a cherry bomb middle box. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt.f 16 Posted May 9, 2012 Put padding on the cage Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mech205eng 11 Posted May 10, 2012 Search Query: +Seat +Lower Edit: Note that MSA regs stipulate 3mm thick spreader plates to be used where seat mounting bolts pass through the original bodywork - this does not mean all your sheet metal & box section needs to be. Cheers, those pictures on that thread are great, i could see in my head what wanted doing, just helps to see an example. I did try a quick search but couldn't find that thread. When I did mine as Tom suggests, it created clearance issues with the middle exhaust box as there is less space to fit flush with the car so I had to go for a cherry bomb middle box. I've got no silencer/middle box, just one continuous pipe from manifold to back box so i should be ok there. Put padding on the cage I will be padding the cage but would like to stay as far away from it as possible Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cameron 16 Posted May 10, 2012 I will be padding the cage but would like to stay as far away from it as possible Sensible choice. Lower CoG is a bonus too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c_robinson 8 1 Cars Posted May 15, 2012 seat positioning is said to be worth 1 to 2 seconds a mile (in rallying)... The common consensous is that the steering column wants to be inline with your nose. Ie: if you extended the collumn at the same angle it'd hit your nose. See far too many cars with a comfortable seat position (low, laid back etc) but it provides less control and costs you on the stages/track. Just my opinion of course Charlie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Baz 421 Posted May 16, 2012 (edited) Totally agree, makes a lot of difference. There's no real reason why it can't be comfortable as well as functional though. Edited May 16, 2012 by Baz Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
