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sailtek22

Gearbox And Jenveys Today Whooooooooo :)

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sailtek22

sorry i know i have not been on here for ages and ages but iv been saving and saving and have the week off to do a little work on my pug 205 mi16.

im starting with the clutch as iv done a few track days in it and now having probs putting the car in gear narrowed this down to the clutch so thats my first task. (will be starting this as soon as i finish my cup of tea).

 

also i have bought two sets of jenveys the sexy short silver ones (91mm) and the black ones (118mm) reason i have two is that my mate asked me to get him a set for his 106gti (the short ones) and he would give me the money back over two months. well he gave me £100 to them then lost his job so i have the fun of selling the set i dont need which brings me to my next question.

even though i have done my research and found that the norm is to put on the 118mm TB's what difference would it make if i put the shorter ones on only asking as they look very sexxy.

second question what size injectors should i put in? im running the standard ones at the mo but when i got it mapped they were hitting 100% @7200rpm (iv limited it to 6400rpm feul cut b4 some one says something about the hi rpm) im getting so many differant answers about injector size using google that i thought i would just through it in here.

 

http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3865642.htm this is the short TB's i have.

 

http://www.jenvey.co.uk/home/twin-throttle-bodies/twin-bodies-dcoe-style-118mm-long/jenvey-dynamics/tb-body-40-50mm-pair-tbpxxi these are the black set that i got for me :)

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welshpug

gti6 injectors are probably the best and easiest to get hold of that will flow enough and have a very good spray pattern, obviously you will need another mapping session, seeing 7k isn't an issue on these as long as everything is in order.

 

would certainly be worthwhile getting them cleaned before fitting and mapping.

 

the short bodies are a little large in bore for a fairly standard engine at 48mm, what size are your longer ones? typically you'll lose out some midrange torque and power and maybe gain some more at peak but will have to rev higher, not ideal and not the way to build a fast engine.

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sailtek22

think my other other set is 48mm to but going to grind the to match. like you have put im not looking for peak but more low down torque so any advise on how to get this woud be helpful.

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sailtek22

i just have to add.....

there is a guide on this website on how to remove the gearbox and clutch for any one thinking of doing this let me tell you its not an easy job iv been on my drive for 7hours and im nacked :mellow: .

i still have to get the thing back on which looks a harder job than taking off lol.

still good fun though and i cant think of a harder job to do on this car which means every thing else will be easy (stupid persons logic :P )

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welshpug

its a job I wouldn't call difficult at all, and you can easily half that time, IF nothing is seized and you know what you're doing ;):P

 

as for the bodies, if the others are 48's as well then you've nothing to gain at all in swapping them, though if you find some short bodied 45's and a decent inlet manifold you might be able to release some midrange.

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sailtek22

its a job I wouldn't call difficult at all, and you can easily half that time, IF nothing is seized and you know what you're doing ;):P

 

as for the bodies, if the others are 48's as well then you've nothing to gain at all in swapping them, though if you find some short bodied 45's and a decent inlet manifold you might be able to release some midrange.

 

Well as for the "know what I'm doing" then I would say about 50/50 I've done a subaru 4 years ago and a transit 9years ago lol.

It's all on now I used ratchet straps round the gearbox and battery plate to take most of the weight and hold it in position then is was a good 30mins wiggling the thing in lol going to put the gear oil in tomorrow and test it fingers crossed.

 

 

Thanks for the help and info I'll look into the injectors size tomorrow after I pick up the inlet manifold

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sailtek22

ok hi all a bit of an update for you also a bit of help needed pleeeeeeeese :blush:

 

first for the update iv done the clutch and all is well its been driven on it for around 30 miles and im guessing if it still working now then i must of done it right :P :P

 

 

but now to my problem or help section! iv fitted my jenveys about a week ago thinking it would be quite straight forward as all i was doing was swapping my custom t bodies for the jenvey ones, iv keeped every thing the same from injectors (they have been sonic cleaned) and put back in the same order ignition leads in the same order to, replaced the fuel reg and set that to 3bar same as the old 1. replaced all the old fuel lines with new ones (and yes its all flowing the right way) and thought i would give it a go starting on the old map as all i thought would be diff is the air flow in so may be alittle lean to start with.

 

after a bit of messing i got it started revving a around 2600rpm see vid ------>

ok i know someone it going to shout at me for trying to rev it in the vid but i reeealy could not help my self :blush: :blush:

well just after the vid it started raining so i closed it all up ready fo the next day thinking it would start so i could trim it all up and maybe move it lol

 

well now it wont start and just back fires a bit after a few turns this has puzzled me even after changing the plugs for new and seeing if there is spark still nowt?

does any one have any knowledge of mapping more than triming the fuel and if so would you be willing to have a look at the map/s that i have for it see if there is any thing i can try.

 

also iv tried from the base map and followed the instructions but that has left me wanting to jump infront of a bus (i was happy knowing less lol)

ill post a vid of the back fire just incase its any help.

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sailtek22

emerald

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Anthony

It's not immediately clear, but are you saying that you've removed one set of bodies on which it ran fine, changed them for a new set on which it initially ran and now won't start?

 

Obvious question is did you re-calibrate the TPS after fiting the new bodies? That's an absolute must-do.

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sailtek22

It's not immediately clear, but are you saying that you've removed one set of bodies on which it ran fine, changed them for a new set on which it initially ran and now won't start?

 

Obvious question is did you re-calibrate the TPS after fiting the new bodies? That's an absolute must-do.

 

 

yes iv changed them for jenveys as they had a prototype direct to head t bodies on, this post is my car -----> http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=48909&hl=&fromsearch=1

and yes iv reset the tps as i had to replace the old one

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welshpug

What did you do to make the revs drop?

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sailtek22

add fuel as it was running supper lean on the first block then rich on the second, so i level them out a bit thats why it clamed down, it went to around 14.9/15.0 on my a/f guage but as i went to walk around it it went high again thats why i knocked it off

Edited by sailtek22

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pugpete1108

Sounds like its too rich then and fouling the plugs?

 

Have you checked them?

 

Give em a good wire brush and try again.

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sailtek22

i have a new set that i put in and when i did it sounded promising then back fired so loud that it sounded like a gun shot lol. i looked at the plugs again after that and nothing.

i did a presher check with a cheap guage i have and all read around the same so i didnt blow a piston to heaven lol.

 

this is why im asking see if any 1 has a mi16 map that they can compare with mine :huh: sort of put me on the right track. :huh:

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