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Slo

How Do You Remove Your Rust?

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Slo

This isnt me or my video but....Ive always done it this way ...

 

http://youtu.be/r-nQt9a5IC4

http://youtu.be/UYcEyXM_xso

 

and im currently doing a rear beam and trailing arms.

Ill post some pictures on here when im done. Its VERY effective and will remove all traces of rust and will leave

a lovely black finish that you can prime when dry. Easy peasy minimum effort required to clean up after and

best of all its virtually cost free except for electricity. The only down sides are it can be very messy and it can

take upto a couple of days to clean off serious corrosion like you get on brake parts etc.

 

IMPORTANT POINT!!!

DO NOT TRY THIS IN YOUR HOUSE. The gas that is given off is hydrogen which is highly explosive.

Outside is preferable but you can do it in the shed/garage as long as theres good ventilation.

Edited by Slo

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Ryan

Funny you should mention this. I just finished cleaning a pair of rear calipers using this method this morning, and thought about making a thread about it.

 

I altered an old computer power supply instead of using a battery charger. It doesn't get hot if you leave it on too long, and also automatically shuts down if it shorts out, or overheats, or anything goes wrong. Plus if you use a beefy one you can pull 20+ amps out of if safely, whereas a battery charger probably starts tripping the thermal cut-off at about 4 amps.

 

Forgot to take a picture before, but these looked like they'd been at the bottom of the sea before I started. There's a light surface rust which the flash makes look worse than it is, but that only appeared as they dried, and wipes off with a cloth.

 

 

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pugpete1108

I did my 307 callipers this way. Tbh it was alot if time if not much effort to do.

 

Had to keep taking them out and scrubbing the loose stuff off and then putting them back.

 

Much easier to have them done professionally IMO

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Slo

Very good my trailing arms are starting to look brand new too and not a single scratch anywhere. Have you got anything written down bout altering a computer psu? 4 amps is kinda weedy yes but effective its just the time factor that lets it down

Edited by Slo

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harryskid

I've never heard of this but its looks very impresive ! :D

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harryskid

On question has the scrap part got to be in equal size to the part being cleaned ?

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Ryan

Supposedly it works better the higher the surface area of the scrap, and some guides say surrounding the part you're cleaning is best as it works even better if there's a clear line of sight between the scrap and the surface being cleaned. No idea how much difference it actually makes though.

Edited by Ryan

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Slo

I forgot to add that i used washing powder rather than soda crystals. Size of the sacrificial anode (scrap metal part) isnt important, i just use a piece of angle iron, but it works more efficient in line of sight ie like a short circuit does (this is electric current after all) so if you put in say a rusty steel tube as big as a 2 litre pop bottle the side facing the anode will react more fiercly than the opposite or inside. The absolute best scenario would be to make up a metal cage the same shape as the container you are using then the current will attract from all sides apart from above obviously but then you would have to hang the part in it.

 

Ive just took my first trailing arm out after 2 days.....by the way i didnt use a press to remove the shafts i just put in an old large socket in the end and sledge hammered it out perfect with no distortion....

 

IMG_20120429_174316.jpg

this can get very messy and looks disgusting altho its only frothy rusty water

IMG_20120429_174426.jpg

IMG_20120429_175119.jpgIMG_20120429_181622.jpg

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welshpug

looks good, how well did the splines clean up?

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Slo

Were you expecting them to be damaged? I never thought about the splines to be honest,

OK heres a kind of before and after tho its rather one dipped and one not dipped :)

The splines have come up spotless altho all the crap in between them is still there but its

more like paper mache now and just wipes out with a thin knife and a stiff toothbrush

IMG_20120429_185548.jpg

IMG_20120429_185834.jpg

Edited by Slo

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pugpete1108

I used an old brake disk for the sacrificial piece

 

More current would have been better I guess

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welshpug

Were you expecting them to be damaged?

 

No I was wondering how well they cleaned up :)

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Rob Turbo

I think I'll have a go at this with my mx5 parts, the callipers especially!

 

As for modifying a PC power supply, the easiest way is to do it is connect the power on wire (it was a grey wire on the 2 I've done) to a ground wire (black), this will make it turn on without being in a computer, if you want to do a better job you can open it up and make the connection inside and remove the wires you don't need.

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harryskid

Well i would think of giving this a go in the future and as for being carefull with the gas thats the same when you charge a car battery !

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Ryan

I think I'll have a go at this with my mx5 parts, the callipers especially!

 

As for modifying a PC power supply, the easiest way is to do it is connect the power on wire (it was a grey wire on the 2 I've done) to a ground wire (black), this will make it turn on without being in a computer, if you want to do a better job you can open it up and make the connection inside and remove the wires you don't need.

 

 

Some of them switch off if there isn't a minimum load on the 5V line (sometimes 12V too). I put a little 5W bulb between 5V and ground, which provides a load, and also doubles as a power-on light.

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Slo

I think I'll have a go at this with my mx5 parts, the callipers especially!

 

As for modifying a PC power supply, the easiest way is to do it is connect the power on wire (it was a grey wire on the 2 I've done) to a ground wire (black), this will make it turn on without being in a computer, if you want to do a better job you can open it up and make the connection inside and remove the wires you don't need.

 

Just incase, It will only work on the steel parts it wont touch the alloy parts so theres no point removing them

 

Well i would think of giving this a go in the future and as for being carefull with the gas thats the same when you charge a car battery !

 

This thing will give off tons more gas than a car battery especially since its exposed to the air whereas a car battery is usually sealed without taking the plugs out

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SurGie

Seems a lot of work/time/danger when sandblasting them well will be more than enough imo, might be cheaper too.

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johnnyboy666

I've used a vinegar method in the past for medium sized bits. Less effort by the looks, as you just bung it in, forget about it for a bit, then scrub it off.

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GilesW

I've used tehvingar method opn small parts before. And heated it too for a quicker reaction.

 

Did a whole old style tool chest in a wheely bin with diluted brick cleaner which worked really well (brick cleaner free from work). However it does it all ali parts.

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CosKev

I use Bilt Hamber Deox C,works much faster than doin it this way,is easier to do(just add water),and safer!:)

 

Seems a lot of work/time/danger when sandblasting them well will be more than enough imo, might be cheaper too.

 

Blasting is not the best way to clean up cast items,like trailing arms.

It pushes small bits of rust into the pores of the cast,this then comes through your paint/powdercoat pretty quickly.

Cast needs soaking in acid/rust remover etc to draw out the rust.

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harryskid

I have seen a few more ways to remove rust and i would never have thought of using potatoes, molasses or vinegar !

I also found this method to galvanise !

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