Ice Options For A Cti, What Have You Guys Got?

[john-melbourne 6]

Hi guys,

 

When I have got a few of the niggly things sorted on my CTI I will then move onto the ICE. Just wondered is the standard CTI comparable with a good install with there only being speaker holes in the front door cards? I always fancied doing a nice boot build on my old mk2 golf gti but never got round to it any fellow CTI owners wanna show there's off so I can get an idea of what can be achieved?

 

Thanks guys

 

John

[johnnyboy666 195 1 Cars]

You should be able to increase the quality of the sound you can get from the door speaker with a good bit of dynamat. Thats a good place to start I'd say, chuck the standard speaker and get some ones with a decent sound, mine are ones from www.theloudest.com and the build quality and sound is amazing compared to anything else Ive had in there (but you cant fit the original grills back on). Whats your budget like?

[john-melbourne 6]

I don't have a budget as such just yet, still at the looking and deciding stage.

[harryskid 193]

A nice roarty booming exchaust is all yer need !

[jaggers12 2]

ive got a set of infinati compnants in the front and a pair of 6x9s on the self all running though and amp sounds quite good, noot too keen on the 6x9s tho they were fitted by previous owner

[vern 0]

I have got infinity components in the front in the standard place, For the rears I have made an MDF parcel shelf, and mounted infinity components underneath the shelf and then covered with speaker cloth, to prevent the undesirable elements of society, getting any wrong ideas.

I would not recommend putting speakers on top of the parcel shelf as, when the roof is down it will mark the rear screen.

[john-melbourne 6]

Thanks for the replies guys,

 

Any pictures?

[johnnyboy666 195 1 Cars]

I can stick a few pics up later if you like?

[john-melbourne 6]

the more the merrier

[harryskid 193]

Real Ice

[johnnyboy666 195 1 Cars]

heres a couple of pics, one one the 'theloudest.com' front speakers, and then what I did with the dynamat, to get them to sound 10 times better, I plan to add more sound deadening to the rest of the door at some point

 

I think the general rule is; a bad speaker will always sound bad, but a good speaker will only sound good if mounted well, so you need a surface thats deadened otherwise you'll get rattles and resonance all over the shop. Theres a thread somewher that Dr.Sarty did a few years ago showing how he mounted some 6.5" speakers IIRC with an mdf spacer, for a more solid mounting

[johnnyboy666 195 1 Cars]

and then what I did in the back (not sure if it'll help if its a cti)

and a comparison of theloudest.com 6x9 compared to a £40 kenwood one (it sounds like Im a rep or something lol but Im not I just love there stuff)

[jeremy 70]

Your head unit is the most imoptant thing (IMO). I have had several similar set ups in 106/205s ie speakers and amps, generally a mix of Kenwood/Alpine/Jbl. Tthey all sounded best with my Alpine headunit admitidly it was an Alpine 7939 however the other units I used was a top of the range Kenwood and JVC all running through 4V.

[johnnyboy666 195 1 Cars]

I agree with alpine, I have one of the IDA series usb ones. Sound and adjustability is very good, and loads of pre-outs witch is handy

[john-melbourne 6]

What sort of price would get a good alpine hu?

[kyepan 291]

have a look at my thread, done on a budget, used an alpine 133bt, which has good proper parrot hands free and all the modern connectivity you need.

 

screw fix foil backed flashing tape is a cheap and lightweight alternative to dynamat.

 

really the best bang for your buck is to fit 6.5inch speakers to the front, but that requires some surgery.

[Metal miki 2]

I ran JL VR components upfront and JL TR components in custom homemade pods built into the rear arm rests of my coupe and ran them off an MTX x704 amp, then there were the 2 MTX 8500 subs in a sledgehammer enclosure run off an MTX X1000d amp. The sound finality was immense and the spl was unbearable due to the 25 sheets of dynamat extreme that I lined the car in. The stereo went to 100 but turn it to 10 without opening the windows and you could feel your head being crushed o_O

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Metal miki 2]

What I was getting at there was confirming what was already said, quality speakers will sound rubbish if you don't deaden and also don't scrimp on the cable you use. The JL power cables I used were £100 but well worth it as there was none of that buzzing noise you can get with cheaper cable kits. That was only for the power, earth and signal cable mind. It was extra for the JL speaker cable and £40 a piece for the 3 RCA leads.

 

In all I spent £2500 on speakers amps and cable and loads of dynamt but saved money by fitting it all myself.

 

Was a total waste of money though as I stripped it all out and turned the car into a track car but was unable to get all that dynamat out o_O

[jeremy 70]

IMO unless you want to run silly power then the amp wiring kits costing between £12 to £15 are more than sufficient (maybe slightly more as it was a few years ago but still bought on ebay). I used two of these to power up two Alpine amps, one rated 350 wrms, and another in the region of 150 wrms with no problems at all. If you are getting buzzing noises then you need to solve this first, just make sure you route power cable down one side and speaker/rca cables down the other of the car. Again IMO you are better especially if working on a tight budget to have a better H/U, then amps (although not essential if just wanting something to drive too as opposed to thump) then speakers. If you live near a Richer Sounds this is a great place to buy OFC speaker cable off the roll.

[timmsy19 3]

Simple and easy is the way forward unless you want to spend mega money and have something that'll ultimately weigh a ton

 

A decent HU (another vote for Alpine) a good set of front door speakers (components) i had some vibes, then for a CTI i would run one of those slimline subs under the drivers seat. Job done

 

buzzing noises aren't really down to how expensive the cable is, its about how close those cables are routed together. Generally route the speaker cables the oposite side to the power cable and this is solve this issue! You could spend hundreds on 'ultra' shielded cables when something much cheaper will do the job.

Lets face it if you can hear buzzing over the amount of rattles a normal 205 has then your doing well

 

Well in my experience that is anyway.

 

 

That said i had the above setup for all of about 2 weeks until i decided i liked the lovely exhaust note more

 

Edit: just noticed Jeremy has put the same about routing the cables

Edited April 18, 2012 by timmsy19

[harryskid 193]

Ok you don't want a loud exchaust then ! Well is this the type of system you want ? A real ear bleeder !

[Metal miki 2]

Don't worry guys, power cable always gets routed down the passenger side, signal/remote down the side of the tunnel and the RCA cables down the drivers side. I always stripped the carpets to do an install. Low grade cable can cause a buzz that is also affected by accelerating, it's the extra charge produced from the alternator but using cheap light cable you can use a bypass filter (about a tenner)

 

I agree what I was running was excessive but that's what I wanted at the time.

 

I agree that alpine units are good but the clarion I was running was 10xs better than my old alpine as regards control ability of EVERYTHING. Not only are you controlling you balance/fade and bass but you could contort the exact frequency of each speaker over its full range from high to mid to bass (and we all know 33 1/3 htz is where it's at lol) it was also nice having the separate bass channel rather than using the rear channel like you had to on most head units back in the day.

 

The only hu I'd stay away from is Sony, they are called xplode for a reason lol.

[johnnyboy666 195 1 Cars]

I agree that alpine units are good but the clarion I was running was 10xs better than my old alpine as regards control ability of EVERYTHING. Not only are you controlling you balance/fade and bass but you could contort the exact frequency of each speaker over its full range from high to mid to bass (and we all know 33 1/3 htz is where it's at lol) it was also nice having the separate bass channel rather than using the rear channel like you had to on most head units back in the day.

 

you can do this on the alpine IDA range (or most of them at least)

33 1/3 htz, is that the 'brown noise' frequency per chance?

[BlueBolt 156]

I've always liked the Pioneer hu's... Lots of control with them over full ranges and lots of pre-outs too!! Also, minimal buttons on the face which is a preference to me...

[Metal miki 2]

 

 

you can do this on the alpine IDA range (or most of them at least)

33 1/3 htz, is that the 'brown noise' frequency per chance?

 

Nope lol, don't think I'd wanna crap my shorts while I'm driving lol. 33 1/3 htz is the frequency of an orgasom "so they say" it's a very nice low rumble that massages you in seat is what I find

 

 

I gave up in all that ice stuff years ago, plus I don't listen to the right sort of music for excess bass anyway. I'd rather just have my component speakers up front and and decent coaxials in the rear for listening to my ac/dc and foo fighters (can't wait, I have tickets to see the foo fighters this year at tennents vital in Belfast )