Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
Masekwm

Drilling Out Locking Wheel Nuts

Recommended Posts

Masekwm

Hi,

 

I've got a knackered locker on my Xsara. I've drilled quite far in to it but I've now hit metal that the drill is having trouble with.

 

What type of drill/drill bit is the best to use? I've been using a standard drill with HSS bits.

 

Thanks

Keith

 

It is exactly the same as this http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=115639&st=-10

Edited by Masekwm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
petert

Cobalt drill bit. Use slow RPM and lots of coolant.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
matt.f

Not sure on how deep the nuts/bolts are in the wheel but I've welded bolts on in the past and undone them

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
pugpete1108

i used std hss bits in my dewalt to drill out a locker before. took ages though and you need to go up in stages to a 13mm i think? just to drill the top off.

 

sounds like your bit is blunt thats all, as said use plenty of lube (wd40 or similar will suffice if you have nothing else) and a slow speed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Masekwm

I thought as much. The wife has dropped it at a second garage to have a go with their heavy duty equipment. First garage refused to even try!

 

If the second place do the same, I'll be off to Screwfix again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Alastairh

De ja vu. Im having identical problems.

 

Al

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Rippthrough

1. SHARP drill bit - and no, your £2 specials from aldi probably aren't sharp even when new.

2. Slow RPMs - lots of revs on hard steel = lots of heat = blunted drill tip. Once it starts to go it'll make more heat and get even worse.

3. Some lube - old gearbox oil is ideal, or similar - reduced heat buildup for the above.

4. Steady hand, and lots of pressure - you need to force the bit to take a big chunk of a cut - that'll keep the heat down and keep the bit moving through fresh, cold metal.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
daneldridge23

or u could use these they save countless hours

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Masekwm

De ja vu. Im having identical problems.

 

Al

 

I was looking at the hub and thinking, I could pull the strut out and call you for a new shaft & hub!

 

or u could use these they save countless hours

 

If only! Hello to a local owner!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Daviewonder

Weld a nut to the face of it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Lan

hammer and a socket you don't mind twatting

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

with this type of locking bolt most techniques dont work, and the depth of the bolt hole doesnt help, drilling is probably the best method

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Masekwm

After 2 days at my favoured garage the car is home minus the damaged locking wheel nut.

 

Now to find a single VTS wheel to have refurbed and fitted with lovely new rubber. Bloody screw was in a 3 month old Michellin, that is what I get for taking the Xsara to the tip.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×