Leaking Fuel Line & Replacement Options

[GLPoomobile 958]

It is possible to remove the solid fuel pipes with just the car jacked up. Do not try to seperate the union/olive in situ, instead remove the solid pipe from the car with the rubber part still attached to it. Then you can split the union in the vice with easy access. The pipe can easily be manoeuvered to clear the subframe and gear linkages from under the car.

 

Oh yeah, I forgot that this topic was about replacing the metal lines so it makes sense to remove them before separating.

[GLPoomobile 958]

the original feed pipe from steel to the filter is plastic with a rubber sleeve, fitted over a barbed fitting, no clips, hence a Banjo on one end and the olive fitting on the other end.

 

Thanks for clarifying that. It was several years ago so I'd forgotten. But now I remember that I cut the original hose off the barbed fitting, and obviously used a hose clip when I fitted the new hose to it.

 

Given that on my car the feed hose both in and out of the 106 filter is clamped by fuel hose clips to what is straight pipe on the filter, with no barbs or flares, and this holds fine under standard pressure on the 205, I see no reason why I couldn't get away with clamping the hose to the bare end of the supply pipe with no olives, unions, onions or whatever you want to call them. I've no reason to do that at this point in time, but I'm just thinking to the future when I might replace the pipes and relocate the filter.

Edited March 21, 2014 by GLPoomobile

[wildejon 7]

Right, its apart. Which bit is the olive? Is that between the steel and pipe or the 90 deg connection to the fuel filter?

 

Seems odd, surely the pressure would be higher at the beginning of the pipe, near the filter, where there is no connection other than a little clip (which I just pulled off without even undoing!).

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Right, its apart. Which bit is the olive? Is that between the steel and pipe or the 90 deg connection to the fuel filter?

The olive sits on the end of the metal fuel line that runs under the car, under the nut that joins to the hose to the lower fuel filter union.

 

g

[wildejon 7]

New pipes bent up and sort of ready to go on. I have not managed to get the olive and nut (and the rubber hose attached to it) off of the old pipe though. The nut is off but how does the whole thing come apart? It spins and is loose but I really cannot get it to separate from the metal pipe. Possible?!

[wildejon 7]

Anyone?

Does the olive include the pipe that fastens to the filter? Still a little confused :/

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

From the solid pipe end you have slid on the solid

 

Union nut

 

Olive

 

Union that is permanently fixed to the rubber/plastic hose to the filter.

 

So hold the upper hex with a spanner, undo the union nut which will slide down.

 

Then pull the rubber hose and union up off the end of the solid. The olive will stay put.

[wildejon 7]

OK, thanks. I have the nut off and everything feels loose on the metal pipe, it just won't come off

The nut left attached to the rubber pipe is meant to come off the metal pipe right? Maybe I will buy an olive, then I will know what stays and what goes

[wildejon 7]

All came apart but the olive split when re-assembling.

 

Now I really need some help. I cannot find anywhere that sells 7mm olives (Pug want 150 quid for 5!). So, do I replace the metal pipe with 8mm (which seems more standard) and go from there? It might also clip in underneath the car at a push...

 

I guess this would mean a new rubber hose and connections so I'd also need a new banjo (M12 x 1.5 right?).

A friend shared this with me as a possible connection between the metal pipe and a PTFE lined braided hose. I am not sure what size of anything I need and also how to attach the banjo to the braided hose.

 

Can anyone help? I am really stuck and basically, I need a shopping list

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

This is how I done mine when engine was out during conversion.

 

I cut the fittings off my pipework using a plumbers little pipe cutting tool. (Screwfix)

 

Slipped over some 7.5mm? Injection (R9?) rated flexi pipe. (eBay)

 

Clamped the pipe using "two ear" (stainless) pipe clamps, using the correct plyers/tool for them. (eBay)

 

Done the same with banjos. (eBay)

 

The only problem I can see for you to do the same would be access to crop the pipes, and also to squeeze the clamps. But you could always drop the pipes from under the car to do what you need to do.

 

Mind mark the pipes somewhere away from the ends so you know you get the feed and return connected correctly.

 

It's an option for you if your stuck.

[welshpug 1,657]

All came apart but the olive split when re-assembling.

 

Now I really need some help. I cannot find anywhere that sells 7mm olives (Pug want 150 quid for 5!). So, do I replace the metal pipe with 8mm (which seems more standard) and go from there? It might also clip in underneath the car at a push...

 

I guess this would mean a new rubber hose and connections so I'd also need a new banjo (M12 x 1.5 right?).

A friend shared this with me as a possible connection between the metal pipe and a PTFE lined braided hose. I am not sure what size of anything I need and also how to attach the banjo to the braided hose.

 

Can anyone help? I am really stuck and basically, I need a shopping list

but it's 8mm

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

I can confirm that the standard fuel pipe for the 205 (part number 1579 26) is 8mm diameter. I've got some ready to go back on my car.

[welshpug 1,657]

yup, we used an 8mm compression to an-6 adapter on DCC'S 205 that came from Torques.co.uk.

[wildejon 7]

So I could just buy an olive for pennies and reuse what I already have?

Not 100% how they go together, does it self flare the end of the pipe?

 

Thanks so much for all the help, it's been a bit if a nightmare!

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

If the hard lines are 8mm ID, i must have used the 8.5 ID pipe. Can't remember what size i used but it was a good tight fit.

 

I only bought two versions of injection pipe, and they were bought to suit the GTI6 fuel rail sizes, (then the other bits and bobs, banjo's/clamps were bought to suit the pipe.)

 

 

If your flexies are original i wouldn't mess about looking for olives etc, they are old and probably should be replaced anyway.

 

One problem i did have well before my conversion was when i renewed my fuel filter and never renewed the copper crush washers for the banjo's.

Fortunately i saw the tiniest of petrol spray coming from a banjo aiming for the exhaust manifold before it was too late.

So make sure you replace copper washers as a minimum.

[welshpug 1,657]

no! 8mm o.d.

[wildejon 7]

Yup, OD

Can't believe I measured it as 7mm just because I was told that's what it was, mental.

So I can just reuse everything right and just screw it all together?

[wildejon 7]

Here is my solution. Firstly I binned the old line as it isn't so easy to find a replacement olive with the same angle.

 

I visited a local hydraulic shop who made up this line for me, I'm not so sure on the connections on the end closest to the camera as they are both just 8mm pipe each side of the central piece with a nut that screws onto an olive on each side but it must work about the same as the before. He said they use these up to 250 bar so I should be covered

 

Thanks for the help all!

 

[welshpug 1,657]

As long as its fuel resistant hose youll be fine

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

Nearest the camera is what is known as a standpipe with a compression straight-straight fitting. Probably 8LL series.

[wildejon 7]

Ah, I learned something new! Thanks for sharing. Actually learning quite a bit during all this. I do still feel befuzzled that we go to all this effort on this end and the fuel tank just has a standard fitting. I guess because it is a lower risk area, despite it operating at a slightly higher pressure to account for the loss in the tube.

 

Yup, it's fuel proof

Edited September 1, 2014 by wildejon