Servicing A Very Low Miler Mi16 Engine Stored For A Very Long Time?

[cybernck 402 1 Cars]

I've an Mi16 engine (XU9J4Z from Mi16x4) stored in my garage, that has apparently done just over 20k miles during it's life,

as the car was crashed when it had only been a few years old (and that was quite a barnyard find!). Anyway, the previous

owner has been turning it over once or twice a year (or so he has told me) but it has definitely stood still in the time

I've had it (which must be 3-4 years now).

 

If I wanted to put it in use now, what servicing would I really need to undertake? I thought of turning it over with a little bit

of oil down the bores, doing cambelt, tensioners, water pump, dizzy cap and arm, HT leads and spark plugs, injectors cleaning,

new coil etc and possibly try to do the stem seals without removing the head.

 

But, considering cars tend to deteriorate more when standing than when used and doing high miles, would I need to take

the head off and inspect the bores or take the sump off and check the bearings etc? Or just get it running (with the

proposed servicing) and see what it goes like?

 

Oh, I've just remembered that the rear engine in Mi32 had also been standing for a few years, even partially dismantled with

it's head off (and with no known history on top of that) - we only put it together with a new headgasket, cambelt kit and

dizzy cap and arm - and it's still going strong .

 

Thanks.

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

Rightly or wrongly If it were me, I'd drop a bit of oil down the bores and wind it over. New Cambelt,tensioners,water pump, oil filter, fresh oil poured in from the top over the cams. Spin it over to get oil pumping a pressure up then fire it up. I've done similar with several cars that have been laid up for long periods of time, aswell as my mi which was rebuilt then moth balled for 4 years untouched.

I certainly wouldn't try and do the stem seals without removing the head! Makes me wince thinking about it

Edited February 29, 2012 by allanallen

[jackherer 543]

As above, I wouldn't touch the head gasket or sump gasket at that mileage even with the years in storage.

[cybernck 402 1 Cars]

Yeah, that's what I was thinking too.

 

I'm still a little bit concerned about stem seals being hardened up / shrunk due to their age though

and any possible internal rust, as it had been stood long for such a long time, although in a garage.

 

BTW, doing an Mi16 swap nowdays sounds quite exotic, amongst all GTI-6, GTI 180 and V6 swaps .

[jackherer 543]

I share your concern but with the cost of taking the head off (new HG, head bolts etc) I'd say its a reasonable risk.

[Baz 421]

+1 I'd be tempted as said, to throw it in and see how it runs with only very basic servicing first, then go from there.

 

At least it saves the time/hassle/cash of the bigger stuff that can arguably be done in-situ if needs be, if it's worth doing at all.

 

PS. Mi's are still the daddy.

[wicked 103 3 Cars]

I would run only 1k with the first oil. If there is some minor oxidation and dirt, you don't want to have that in your engine for a long time.

[large 33]

See if you can borrow, rent a borescope. The ideal way to check the liner without pulling every thing apart.

[kyepan 291]

the engine i rebuilt had got moisture into the bores, which had corroded the liners where the pistons sat, if it's had the plugs left in, it may be fine. If you can get a cheap endoscope and look down the bores that will tell you what's what..

 

but for the sake of a few hours putting it in.. whats the harm in running it.

 

See if you can borrow, rent a borescope. The ideal way to check the liner without pulling every thing apart.

is what i was originally going to suggest

 

half brained this morning - i did suggest it, just not first!

Edited February 29, 2012 by kyepan

[cybernck 402 1 Cars]

Well, I am not able to fit it in my building's car park, so I'll need to pay for it to be fitted by a garage

and I generally don't like doing the same thing twice, that's why I want to get it done right the first time,

but I now feel fairly confident that it should run fine. Turning it over by hand while it's still sitting in

my garage will probably tell us a lot about it - I hope it hasn't completely seized up .

 

By the way, as it's been 10 years since my first and last Mi16 conversion (in front of the car anyway ),

what's the best way of fitting one to a 205 nowdays, in terms of clearing the bulkhead? Also, as the car

will probably run A/C in the future, it won't be possible to modify the fan shrouding etc, so I guess

the only way to make the inlet manifold fit is to shorten it? Is GTI-6 inlet any shorter?

[jackherer 543]

Well, I am not able to fit it in my building's car park

 

I've fitted engines in far less appropriate environments, where is your sense of adventure?

 

The best way to clear the bulkhead is a brand new 4/2/1 aftermarket manifold.

 

Once you consider cost/benefit ratio you'll probably want to cut, re-angle and weld up the existing manifold. I have had very good results with re-angling wedges but since the demise of QEP I don't think they are available any more.

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

Lower the rad and ditch the fan shrouding - then you'll get the AC in.

[petert 586]

Fresh oil and filter, new cam belt and tensioners (they rust, which may damage a new belt), hook up a gearbox housing and starter motor, then give it a compression test. If it comes up trumps, drive it. Otherwise, pull the head off.

[cybernck 402 1 Cars]

OK, I get the point .

 

By the way, what's the Mi16x4 camshaft pulley arrangement like?

 

Any other differences to a regular XU9J4Z engine?

 

Cheers.

[petert 586]

Early Mi16x4 are #2 on both pulleys. Later Mi16x4, when they went to the 3 row ECU, are most probably #4/#2 like Mi16. You have #3/#2. If you can find a #4 I'd put in on the inlet. It smooths out the power delivery. The DFW feels peaky because it lacks torque below 4000, compared to a D6C.

[cybernck 402 1 Cars]

OK, thanks .

[cybernck 402 1 Cars]

Here's an update!

 

The latest is that I took a ratchet with a 22 mm socket to the crank pulley a couple of days ago

and it turned fine, meaning it hasn't seized up, but I would be surprised if it had, since it was

dry stored in a garage all these years.

 

Since I've recently sold an unknown condition 1.9 8v engine that has been stood for an equally long

period of time, that a guy just shoehorned in place of his knocking original engine and it seems to

run sweet as a nut, I am thinking that following the suggestions from the replies to the original

question should be spot on.

 

If I put a gearbox and a starter on it, will I be able to crank it over (without starting it of course)

on a garage floor or will it have a tendency to flip over and roll away like Sonic the Hedgehog?

And should I first change the cambelt and tensioners or take some risk?

 

And also, when it comes to starting it up, should I start it up on original oil for like a few seconds

and then drain it down, replace oil and filter and run normally from then on OR change oil and filter

right away, run it like that for a couple of drives and then change them again?

 

Thanks.

[petert 586]

It won't rock or buck like a bull. Take all the plugs out, pour a 20mL of kero down each hole, and crank it over. That will help clear any rubbish on the valve seats. Then do a compression test. I'd fit a new belt as they have a life of 4 years in addition to Km. Tensioners should be fine. Change the oil and filter before starting.

Edited December 20, 2012 by petert

[Vili 18]

The easiest way to clear the bulkhead is by drop the engine 10 mm or bit more. Just fit a aluminium spacer to the top engine mount ( between "the arm" and the bit on the side of the block) and the gearbox mount.

Edited December 20, 2012 by Vili