Battery Light On; Help Diagnosing Possible Fault?

[Gabba 0]

My pugs battery light came on while on the way to work last week, and the battery was dead when I got back to it after work, so next day with a freshly charged battery i was able to get the car home.

 

The alternator is a brand new item which was only fitted about 1000 miles ago by the previous owner, and recently I have just replaced the starter motor. After fitting the starter motor a couple more faults appeared the first being that the oil pressure gauge became very sluggish and would stick at 6 on the gauge.

 

Having read through previous posts it seems that the brown multiplug would seem to be No. 1 suspect for this and now the alternator not charging the battery. Would you all agreed with this?

 

So my question is how easy is it to go about rectifying this problem, for someone which no electrical and wiring experience?

 

If I'm to have a go about tackling this where is best to start, and would the best solution be to look at replace all the wiring assosiated with the brown multiplug? And what would the list of equipment and parts I need include?

 

So far I'm guessing:

 

Wiring of different colour for each of the different sensors. What size wire do i need?

Spade Connectors?

New plug, or connector? It seems like there is diffeing opinions on this?

A Crimp tool?

 

Any thing else you can think of?

 

Also does anyone have a good guide to auto wiring for be to have a look at?

 

Cheers

 

Alex

[dcc 855]

I cba to copy and paste from the search I just did.

 

Maybe you could try, alternatively, the TU engine sections has a HOT topic where this was discussed.

[GLPoomobile 958]

Likewise, I'm not going to go in to details about what is required, as it's all been covered before. But I will just point out that it's likely that you're alternator excitor wire is not making a connection (think that's the brown one through the brown plug) meaning you're alternator will not know when to start charging. However, if this is the case, the alternator should still self excite above a certain rpm (something like 3000rpm).

 

If you replaced the starter recently, does your +VE connection to the alternator piggy back off of the starter connection, or does it bypass the starter? Becuase if it's connected to the starter then perhaps the connection has worked loose and your alternator isn't providing a good connection back to the battery.

Edited February 27, 2012 by GLPoomobile

[tunnicliffe 1]

Make sure the alternator is working before testing the wiring just get a multimeter set it to volts put leads across the big battery term on alternator and the other one on the body of alternator and start the engine should be around 14 volts if working then check wiring