Saxo Vts Engine Cam Belt Change

[johnnyboy666 195 1 Cars]

Finally got round to getting my saxo vts engine to go in my GT, and want to make sure I get everything done before putting it in. I know its a good idea to change the cam belt just for peice of mind but i have a few questions:

 

is it essential to change the tensioner or are they re-useable?

 

iis it essential to change the water pump, or should I just remove and check before replacing?

 

if the water pump does need replacing, I have a brand new one sitting around from a TU3S engine, Im assuming that wont fit?

 

where are the locking holes for the pulleys on this engine?

 

Ive not changed a cam belt on a 16v before, is there much difference to an 8v except the slightly more complicated route that the belt goes?

 

can checking tension just be done by hand, no special tools required? thanks john

Edited February 20, 2012 by johnnyboy666

[welshpug 1,661]

crank is locked with a 6mm pin into the flywheel, cams are locked as per gti6, adjustable pulleys so do slacken them off before tensioning the belt, thread lock and do not over tighten the 3 10mm bolts.

 

always replace the water pump when swapping the belt, ditto the tensioner+idler.

 

IIRC tensioner is eccentric + sprung on these, so there will be a pointer you line up with a notch,

 

TU5 pumps are different to TU3.

Edited February 20, 2012 by welshpug

[johnnyboy666 195 1 Cars]

cams are locked as per gti6

 

hows that then? (never seen one)

thanks for the help

[james_pug 26 1 Cars]

Through a hole in the pulley into the cylinder head, there very simple to see once the cambelt covers are off. The flywheel one is abit harder to see if you've never seen where it is, I use to have a picture of it pm me if you get really stuck and I'll try to find it. There quite an easy job though especially if the engines out the car.

[johnnyboy666 195 1 Cars]

cool sounds pretty straight forward then

[miamichris 9]

I followed the 106 haynes manual to do the timing belt on my 106 gti engine before I put it in the Xs, it wasn't too difficult. The pulleys were like vernier pulleys so there's a sequence to follow where you slacken the allen headed pulley bolts and retighten at a certain stage. I'll go find the manual and post back later.

 

As Welshpug says, replace the tensioners and water pump now, for the sake of a few quid I always think its better to replace this all in one go then you know its done and they won't fail 100 miles after the conversion is on the road!

[sickomotorsport 4 2 Cars]

Finally got round to getting my saxo vts engine to go in my GT, and want to make sure I get everything done before putting it in. I know its a good idea to change the cam belt just for peice of mind but i have a few questions:

 

is it essential to change the tensioner or are they re-useable?

 

iis it essential to change the water pump, or should I just remove and check before replacing?

 

if the water pump does need replacing, I have a brand new one sitting around from a TU3S engine, Im assuming that wont fit?

 

where are the locking holes for the pulleys on this engine?

 

Ive not changed a cam belt on a 16v before, is there much difference to an 8v except the slightly more complicated route that the belt goes?

 

can checking tension just be done by hand, no special tools required? thanks john

have you got a build thread for it?

[johnnyboy666 195 1 Cars]

I havent at the moment as its a very slow project (being my daily driver) and currently dont have a garage to make things more difficult. Although I will soon be moving house and will have a garage and things will be moving a lot quicker, and I will do my best to get some sort of build thread/progress report going

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

WP, as per above, where is the locking pin/location for the crank on the flywheel?

 

Does anything have to be removed to get a pin in etc?

 

(I've ordered a Haynes manual but it's not arrived yet)

 

TIA

[welshpug 1,661]

front face of the block, near the crank sensor, 6mm pin.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Found a pic of where it locks (gold drill bit)

 

Think it may be a 5mm pin that's required.

 

 

Found this guide, and interesting that the timing belt has two white lines on it to line up with specific teeth on the cam sprockets......I just checked my new belt and it has these lines.

 

http://www.saxperience.com/forum/showthread.php?t=65315&page=2

[welshpug 1,661]

definitely 6mm, however an iron block will typically be quite rusty so it'll be tight.