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mech205eng

Shot Blasting Shell

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mech205eng

I've decided to blast my 205 shell as i want to make a minter so figure i should do the job right. I;m going to strip it to a bare shell and blast inside and underside and engine bay. The outside is just going to be rubbed down. That way when i send it for paint my guy can paint inside too. I'll be stone chippering and painting the underside myself as obviously the finish doesn't matter.

I'm getting a guy who has done a lot of shot blasting to do it for me, but hasn't done a car before. I said i'd get him the blasting material, does anybody know what exactly will be the best thing to blast it with, do I need to blast the inside and underside with two different materials? Where could I get it from and how much will I use?

Also i'll just add the shell isn't rotten, there is a bit of rust on the floor in places and one small section of rot that i'll plate but all in all I think it's a decent shell.

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omega

soda blasting seams to be the new way of doing this i saw a demo where a guy took the paint of a door left a very smooth finish.

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mech205eng

With it been the inside and underside the finish isn't the most important thing. Soda blasting is too expensive anyway i'm having this done because I know someone who can do shot blasting cheap

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cybernck

I've always been in two minds about this when it comes to 205's, as the shells are supposed to be galvanised.

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Liquid_106

Isn't dipping a better option as it doesnt damage the metal work, gets in to all the nooks and cranies and doesnt leave blast media all over the place. I know your getting it done mates rates, but if you after a minter, isnt it better to pay to get the bodywork prep done properly rather than possible having to sort out any damage done by the blasting? (imo ;) )

I'm getting a guy who has done a lot of shot blasting to do it for me, but hasn't done a car before.

Out of interest, what does he usually blast? If it's big hunks of metal, might think twice about letting he loose on thin French steel :P

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johnnyboy666

probably best to ask the blaster what he wants to work with? I imagine some media will be easier/better/cheaper/etc to blast than others

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mech205eng

I've always been in two minds about this when it comes to 205's, as the shells are supposed to be galvanised.

Arn't they only galvanised from 89 on? and mine is an 89 so don't no where it falls.

 

 

Isn't dipping a better option as it doesnt damage the metal work, gets in to all the nooks and cranies and doesnt leave blast media all over the place. I know your getting it done mates rates, but if you after a minter, isnt it better to pay to get the bodywork prep done properly rather than possible having to sort out any damage done by the blasting? (imo ;) )

 

Out of interest, what does he usually blast? If it's big hunks of metal, might think twice about letting he loose on thin French steel :P

It's not big hunks of steel, he does alot of grain conveyors, the sheet steel on them will 5mm thick at the most. Thing is hes CHEAP, its weighing up giving him £100 or giving a car blaster atleast 500 notes. Car is already costing enough.

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mech205eng

Isn't dipping a better option as it doesnt damage the metal work, gets in to all the nooks and cranies and doesnt leave blast media all over the place. I know your getting it done mates rates, but if you after a minter, isnt it better to pay to get the bodywork prep done properly rather than possible having to sort out any damage done by the blasting? (imo ;) )

Minter....on a budget ^_^

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welshpug

galv started in 86 iirc.

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205wrc

I'm in the process of building a spit in order to get my shell mounted on to it and blasted. We're nearly there. Few more little bits to do to the spit, and it should be all systems go. Trying to get the shell fabricated in time for PUGFEST. A friend of mine has a blaster and he usually charges £50 per hour plus grit. In bulk, grit is about £6 per bag. Only doing the engine bay, underneath and around the seams inside as not to distort any of the panels........watch this space :)

I have photos of the step by step build of the spit, so if it all goes well, I might have to start a new thread :D

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jackherer

galv started in 86 iirc.

 

My understanding is that it was introduced as a partial process in '88 and they were fully galvanised by '89. In UK terms very late E reg or F reg to be sure.

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mech205eng

I'm in the process of building a spit in order to get my shell mounted on to it and blasted. We're nearly there. Few more little bits to do to the spit, and it should be all systems go. Trying to get the shell fabricated in time for PUGFEST. A friend of mine has a blaster and he usually charges £50 per hour plus grit. In bulk, grit is about £6 per bag. Only doing the engine bay, underneath and around the seams inside as not to distort any of the panels........watch this space :)

I have photos of the step by step build of the spit, so if it all goes well, I might have to start a new thread :D

I'm trying to avoid making a spit, blasting isn't even something i'd planned on doing. How long has it taken you to build the spit? When is pugfest? It helps to have a timescale/goal to have it done by. Me and a group of friends are driving to the ring in august so that's my deadline!

 

May yet splash out and get it done professionally or get my mate whos spraying it to have a look and tell me if it even wants doing.

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Cameron

It's not big hunks of steel, he does alot of grain conveyors, the sheet steel on them will 5mm thick at the most. Thing is hes CHEAP, its weighing up giving him £100 or giving a car blaster atleast 500 notes. Car is already costing enough.

 

Why are you bothering to have it blasted at all if you're trying to do this on a shoestring? Surely you'd be much better off buying a couple of wire wheels for your angle grinder and attacking it yourself? If as you say all it is is a few bits of cosmetic rust it seems like you're going to a lot of effort and expense for no reason.

 

Also, shot blasting will annihilate the standard metalwork, you shouldn't really use anything harsher than sand.

Edited by Cameron

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Redtop

From having numerous shells of cars done by different people, my opinion is to use someone who knows what they are doing with soda blasting. I have one person who is not cheap but does a very good job for me in N.I so irrelevant to most on here, that has done 3 shells one being a 205. It took him a many hours to do it and he said the 205 roof was very easily warped and he had to take a lot of time to do it right. The 1st person I used for soda blasting warped panels on me but he was obviously cheap for a reason.

 

The acid dipping is a disaster and im not the only one that had problem with it. They wrecked a perfect bonnet and twisted a shell, numerous dents on pre perfect shells, panels. Don't get me wrong the actual process is good, just not the price and fixing afterwards.

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cybernck

I always thought that galvanising started in 1986 as well.

 

My old 1985 1.6 was rotting away 10 years ago, while the 1987 Mi32 is still more or less structurally fine.

 

Anyhow, the question still stands - is it a bad idea to blast galvanised shells?

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Cameron

According to the 306 Wikipedia article:

 

Contrary to popular myth no full production Peugeot model has ever been galvanised, but the 306 benefits from a zinc phorescent paint-primer process, which has significantly improved corrosion resistance.

 

Is this true, or usual Wiki bullcrap?

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mech205eng

Why are you bothering to have it blasted at all if you're trying to do this on a shoestring? Surely you'd be much better off buying a couple of wire wheels for your angle grinder and attacking it yourself? If as you say all it is is a few bits of cosmetic rust it seems like you're going to a lot of effort and expense for no reason.

 

Also, shot blasting will annihilate the standard metalwork, you shouldn't really use anything harsher than sand.

 

Not on a shoestring, just not trying to let it run away with me. I'v got wire wheels for my big grinder, you see i'm trying to get advice like this as what people would think would be the best idea? I'm great when it comes to the mechanical side but hopeless with knowing whats the best thing when it comes to bodywork. I really find satisfaction in doing the most I can myself. All I know is I want the inside painting and I want the underside treating in some way.

 

Cameron, do you mean sand blast it instead? because blasting with sand is extremely dangerous and causes silicosis and i've heard before it is illegal to blast anything using sand anymore. I'll happily be corrected if i'm wrong though

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Cameron

It's your money, but personally I wouldn't let someone use equipment & medium meant for agricultural equipment on my tinfoil bodyshell just because they were cheap. :lol:

 

If sand blasting is illegal, fair enough, it's the first I've heard of it. I'm sure there's a replacement media that does the same job, but the principle remains - metal shot is too harsh for the thin bodywork.

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EdCherry

You can still blast with sand, its just all H&S nonsense now that goes with it.

 

Walnut shells are the s*it to be blasting shells with so I hear these days...

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mech205eng

the guy whos painted it has come to look at it and he reckons it just wants the inside floor blasting so the guy who does all his blasting for him is doing it for me. So no cheap jobs, should be done well. Got it nearly all stripped, i'm leaving wires in though so need to go round and bag them all up in thick plastic.

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Redtop

That's good, at least the painter knows the score with the blaster. Wouldn't be hard to take the wiring out as they aren't as bad as more modern cars. You'll prob want the parts in behind the driving lamps locally blasted when he's at it, as most 205's have abit of rust in there.

 

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