Spraying The Engine Bay, Advice Please

[layton1985 5]

I want to spray my engine bay as I am about to put another engine in, whilst the engine is out it would be a good time to do it because I don’t want to be taking it out again ever if it can be helped.

I have on the inner wing were the jack goes a patch of rust and in general the bay is tatty, can anyone advise me of a few point please?

 

: - getting rid of this rust so it won’t or not likely to come back (rust treatment brand that works?)

 

: - what primer I have to use

 

: - how many cans of primer I need and how many cans of POWT WHITE paint I should need to cover the engine bay?

 

: - what sand paper I may need I am aware of wet and dry 400 800 etc.

 

: - do I use 400 first to key my paint wipe it down primer it the 800 to smooth then paint it the flat it? Do I need to lacquer it?

 

I am using spray cans as I don’t have a compressor and I will be doing it hopefully in my bosses unit I will if I need to rent a gas heater to warm the unit and keep it dry, the unit is only a small one, the size of a double garage maybe slightly bigger.

 

I know I am looking for every last detail but if someone can answer all this, other people that are thinking about doing it will have all the information they need in one topic.

 

Thanks in advance

[jeremy_spoke_in 2]

1 Bilt Hamber have a good selection of products for removing rust which i found worked quite well. Just apply a few times and you'll get rid of most of it. Quite expensive though.

 

2 Use Acid etch primer on bare metal areas. White primer for white paint.

 

3 When i painted my bay last year i used 2 spray cans of Miami blue paint, i should have bought another 1 and used it also.

 

4 Sandpaper start with coarse and work up to fine

 

5 After getting rid of rust etc, make sure the metal is keyed with about 600, panel wipe and allow to dry. Primer (1 or 2 coats).

Allow to dry, key primer with 800 grit. Then top coat (at least 2 coats). Allow to dry, flat back final layer of top-coat with 800 grit (use plenty water).

Allow to dry and then use laquer ( at least 2 coats) to get a nice shine.

 

Hope thats some help. I had no experience of this when i done my engine bay and it turned out ok. The main thing i learned was preperation is the key, as everybody says. The cleaner, dryer the better and leave as much time as possible between coats. Also looking back i wish i used 3 coats of top coat and 3 layers of Laquer as mine isn't as shiny as i wanted.

 

I'm sure the paint experts will help further or correct my mistakes. Remember its only the engine bay so it doesn't matter too much if its not perfect.

[BlueBolt 156]

This is one of those threads I will be following closely as I intend to do mine during the summer at some point! Good question asking, covers everything you need to know and good thread title so I can find it later!!

Sorty I'm not actually posting useful info though...

 

 

(null)

[SurGie 54]

For a start dont put etch primer when there is other paint around as it will etch it upwards. As its the engine bay of which i have recently done mine, just use either high zinc from Bilt hamber or standard primer over the de rusted steel and paint after keying it all. You will find a lot of rust patches here and there. You may find under where the master cylinder is, a load of rust or hole due to the brake fluid dripping onto it. Etch is recommended on outer car panels due to heat/sun etc, a good standard primer is fine on a few spots of clean steel in the engine bay. Also key the bare steel when using the high zinc primer so it sticks well, this stuff iv been told is fine on top of keyed original paints.

 

As for how much, i had bought a litre of primer thinned down as much as the 1 litre paint. Its best to thin it a bit, but ask the paint shop about their own paint first. This amount was more than enough with some leftovers for touch ups etc. I used some stone chip on the front panel after the high zinc.

 

Yes use either 350 or 400 to key the paint, then use either 800 or what i use 1000 on the primer to flat down and then to flat down the paint before the lacquer.

 

When refitting all the bolts and nuts in bay and bumpers etc, use some copper grease around the threads for long term protection from it rusting.

 

In cavities where rust cannot be taken away use some Bilt hambers cavity wax that stabilises the rust and protects it from water and reapply every 1- 3 years. Other wise its best to remove the rust completely for long term protection, rust converters are funny if its not been cleaned beforehand well enough.

 

Clean the bay a few times because the dirt gets everywhere, tooth brushes helps a bit. Remember the cars engine bay has probably never been cleaned since new.

 

I can send you a few pics if it helps.

[layton1985 5]

Thanks a lot for the information, the how to and the tips, not forgetting products,I really appreciate it.

 

Like Bluebolt others will be interested in this and the title is what the thread is about as I find sometimes looking for info on here can be hard, I once searched moving servo two keywords, and got a lot of threads with those words in but mainly a quote with servo in it and several quotes later someone talking about moving house ha.

 

I will uploads pics with progress when I start it I am on nights for a couple of weeks so it won't be untill then and I will be moving the servo aswell so will start a thread with a good clear title and all the info, parts etc and how I did it in there.

 

Thanks again guys

[layton1985 5]

I was wondering what causes a reaction? I was talking to someone that had sprayed a wing and it reacted, he said the paint looked as though there were lots of tiny bubbles coming up under the paint.

 

Does anyone know what causes this or what I should do to to avoid this?

 

Does using different brands of paint together cause this?

 

Thanks Lee

[layton1985 5]

Hi guys I have just bought a welder, it's a 90 amp gas mig welder capable of welding mild steel from 1.5mm to 4mm thick which is enough for body work etc, even the subframe is only about 2mm thick mild.

 

I will be using this to weld up the brackets for the servo and the gearbox mount for the new engine conversion, a 206 gti 180 engine.

 

Does anyone on here shorten driveshafts? or know anyone or anywere that can do this for me?

 

Thanks Lee

[SurGie 54]

I was wondering what causes a reaction? I was talking to someone that had sprayed a wing and it reacted, he said the paint looked as though there were lots of tiny bubbles coming up under the paint.

 

Does anyone know what causes this or what I should do to to avoid this?

 

Does using different brands of paint together cause this?

 

Thanks Lee

 

Dont use any silicone in the area of the car as this is one main cause of problems. Different paints can cause trouble, so best to ask your paint supplier that can mix paint into a can for you.

 

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/spray-painting.htm This forum should answer some of your questions, they have a rectifying faults page too.

 

As for your welder, it might not be good enough for the 205's thin steel, so use a copper back plate tool if access is possible. This reduces the heat build up so you dont blow through. Use an old copper pipe and flatten it down then fit a piece of wood in the other end to make your own.

[layton1985 5]

Thanks mate

 

I was on that site last night when searching google for different types of primer and when to use them, it's a good site thanks for the link and the advice, you have been really helpful.

 

The welder I have is the SIP WELDMATE T90P, not used it yet and it is my first welder so I will be learning everything on this, just need a decent mask now and a grinder.

 

Thanks Lee

[layton1985 5]

I have another question sorry whilst I am at it I want to spray the front and rear valance, because these are plastic they will flex, what paint or primer do I need?

 

also I want to protect the under arches and spray them, but will stones just crack the hard paint because the shutts is soft underneath?

 

Thanks Lee

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

use some good quality stone chip under the arches.

 

with regards to the bumpers, i just used regular primer and paint. as long as you dont go twisting the bumpers the paint wont crack.

[SurGie 54]

I've applied stonechip on the front panels too, which i think should have been applied from the factory. stonechip does have flex in it and when the usual paint goes on top it will flex with it, as long as you do it the way it says to, many have different instructions. Some stonechips wont take top coat, shults stonechip i think doesn't. Dont apply the stonechip to thickly because it will take ages to cure and may crack due to the first cote not being dry enough.

 

As for the plastic trim, dont use standard primer else it will start to peel off. You know those badly done chav cars with the bumpers paint peeling off well thats no doubt due to them not using plastic primer if at all.

 

Once the original paint has been keyed with 300 grade or so, paint it with the plastic primer and then let it dry. DO NOT key the plastic primer as this will make its properties weaken or go completely. Just spray the top coat on top after iyts fully cured, the solvent in it will melt the top surface which when cured will sick to it as well as keying it. Standard primer is fine to key.

 

Thing is you may not hit or bend the plastic trim, it still flex's when driving and due to the weather, ie hot and cold etc.

 

I think its easier with spray cans in the engine bay, you can get at the sharp corners easier but the finish wont be as good compared to using a compressor and gun.

 

If you can clean/panel wipe the bay a few times like what i did, then you know for sure it will been more than good enough for the new paint. I also use tack cloths, they are used softly over the panel to pick up dust and bits etc, dont use it too firmly else it will cause fish eyes in the paints finish.

[layton1985 5]

Thanks a lot for the info guys, learning so much, I was reading about the tack cloths, small square sticky pads, and scotch pads etc, there is a lot of prep work involved , but that's the key to a professional finish.