[race_prep] Hillclimb 205 Rallye

[MattCoggins 3]

Thanks for the input guys, I take it that it is all standard Rallye stuff then? Is there any difference with the 1.9 GTI stuff?

 

Are the brakes 1.6 GTI, for when I buy pads or do they look Rallye stuff too?

 

Oh thought you might find this interesting, insurance quote for the Rallye with declared as a Left hand drive import is cheaper than a standard Ford KA! How does that work? I got offered another KA after the last one was killed so did an insurance quote on it... nearly £40 more expensive and all I did was change the car in Gocompare! Mental. Although I think the 205 might use a bit more juice than the KA.

 

Welshpug can you point me in the direction of some decent stud and nut kits please?

[welshpug 1,661]

a lot less 205 rallye's about being put in ditches, therefore much lower risk!

 

all looks standard 205 euro 1300 rallye spec there, so 1.6 gti brakes are identical, wishbones are the same as a 1.9, hubs are different to 1.9, same carrier and bearing as base model, but 10mm taller offset to the drive flange and disc accordingly.

 

there's a member on here that can do decent studs to similar spec as peugeot sport ones but a little cheaper, think his username is madaxgt, there's a group buy thread from a while back.

[205Rallee 59]

All looks like mine, except a lot oilier! Standard discs and Pagid RS4-2 pads work really well on mine from cold. Don't worry about fuel consumption, as standard mine did 40+mpg and now I can get 50MPG on the way back from events if I sit at 60mph on the motorway. Must run it on super unleaded though!!

[MattCoggins 3]

Thanks guys!

 

I need to crack out the jet wash in the next day or so, things like weddings (not mine) are getting in the way!

 

I need to get the car back on the road soon as I am currently without a car!!!

 

The plan currently is to put the clutch in, jet wash it off and put standard wheel bolts back in for now. Then take it for the MOT...

 

Might do the timing belt too just to make sure!

 

40 - 50 mpg soundfs good too. How much stuff do you take with you to an event?

 

Oh, Welshpug, I think the "risk" was the person behind the wheel in the KA! She is suffering now though :-(

[MattCoggins 3]

Just looking at Welshpugs post, you say there is a 10mm offset on the hub???

 

the car has 10mm spacers on... All though this maybe because of the stud/nut conversion????

 

does this 10mm offset effect the shocks you can fit?

 

Cheers Matt

[welshpug 1,661]

no, its all in the drive flange, you shouldn't need wheel spacers either with those wheels and brakes.

[yippeekayay 18 1 Cars]

All looks like mine, except a lot oilier! Standard discs and Pagid RS4-2 pads work really well on mine from cold. Don't worry about fuel consumption, as standard mine did 40+mpg and now I can get 50MPG on the way back from events if I sit at 60mph on the motorway. Must run it on super unleaded though!!

 

Just ran my euro to norwich and carl chambers place and didnt get any more than 25 to the gallon out of it....

 

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might explain the consumption... though love the noise. Dont want to sell it now.....

Edited April 24, 2012 by yippeekayay

[MattCoggins 3]

Porker rubbish!

 

[MattCoggins 3]

Managed to get a few hours spare to continue getting the box out

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then I got it into the cleaner tank...

 

If i get chance i will nip home at lunch and take some new pictures of the cleaned box

 

matt

[205Rallee 59]

Matt, seeing that ha made me wonder why I'm bothered about my absolutely minimal oil leak Looks like the o ring on the distributor has been leaking for a while. On the positive side there shouldn't be much rust under the bonnet!

[MattCoggins 3]

Erm, thanks.... I think!

 

ive got some pics at work of the gearbox now after I degreased it on Tuesday night! All that lovely oil has kept the out side of the box nice and wet so it has come up a treat. Will try and post up tomorrow.

 

Ive just got 3 seals for the box, im ok with the 2 larger ones but they sent a small one too... is this for the input shaft?

 

Also, is the dizzy seal/oring a normal size or pug part?

[MattCoggins 3]

Pics as promised

 

 

 

 

 

[205Rallee 59]

Looks really good now. if you're rebuilding it, make sure you bang a load of new synchro rings in it. I also put a new 1st/2nd gear synchro hub in mine and it'll now change down into first at silly speeds without crunching. Also either stick the bronze selector forks in it or replace the plastic tips on the steel forks with brass ones. Oh and only use the Total BV gearbox oil in it.

[MattCoggins 3]

Where do you get the forks and rings from mate?

 

How much should i be looking at?

[205Rallee 59]

Get them from the local Pug Stealer, can't remember but the synchro rings were circa £10 each, synchro hub was new old stock off e bay for about £50. The brass forks, I think were new, but a Rover part from the Rover/Pug MA box.

[MattCoggins 3]

Are you looking at something like this?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-R65-M-A-GEARBOX-SYNCRONISERS-100-200-414-416-/160792071757?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item256ff44e4d

but that kit doesnt appear to have the first gear syncro??

 

and are these the bearings?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-206-207-306-307-M-A-GEARBOX-REBUILD-KIT-/110579684459?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19bf10146b

 

Thanks for all the help, Matt

[205Rallee 59]

Those e bay syncro hubs are for 3rd/4th gear and 5th gear along with the synchro rings for 3rd, 4th and 5th gear. A bargain for what you're getting and they look just like the pug MA parts. Probably worth getting, but the 1st/2nd gear synchro hub and 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear synchro rings are the ones that suffer the worst wear in my experience.

 

As well as the white plastic selector fork tips wearing, I also found that all the c clips locating the gears on the output shaft had broken, don't know how. They are cheap from the dealer so worth replacing as well.

 

With regard to the bearings I got an e bay kit, but had to get the 5th gear bearing on the output shaft from Skip Brown (mega bucks and rare size) as in my experience they are an unusual size on the euro rallye box (bigger than say an XS box).

[MattCoggins 3]

Right im in a bit of a conundrum.

 

I am currently trying to sell my house which has a nice, big garage... perfect for building/prepping cars in.

 

Im just starting work on the Rallye now and im getting unsure of how far to go with the car.

 

Looking at the way things are, Im not going to be able to afford to race again, well not for a while anyway, so im going to stick with the 205 for the foreseeable future and it looks likley that I wont get rid off it. Its going to be built/specked for hillclimbing in the Roadgoing series production car class.

 

My problem is, do I bother stripping the car right down, seam weld the shell and paint it inside, outside and underneath?

 

Or do I just put it together and use it in its tatty condition?

 

Ive got to really consider time and cost.

 

No one has been to look at the house and its been on the market for 5 months now. If someone comes to look at the house and puts an offer on it its going to take 3 months or so to go through.

 

How long, in all honesty, does it take to clean the sealer off, weld the car up and prep for paint?

 

 

 

 

[stu8v 68 1 Cars]

I guess it took me 2 months........

[MattCoggins 3]

decided against seam welding.

 

Just going to get it fixed and use it, I think that fits more with the class im running in.

 

Is it worth double plating the strut tops and pedal box though?

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

Not worth plating the strut tops for a tarmac car in my opinion. Pedal box is worth doing if you are using a non-servo bias box. But if you are using the standard servo master cyl arrangement I wouldn't bother with that either.

[TT205 42]

In case you are about to make a boob

 

If you are intending going in road modified - double check the blue book but I believe you can't strengthen the strut tops, you can't use a pedal box, you can't seam weld and any cage has to be bolt in not weld in - equally no extra strengthening through the bulkhead etc, no rose joints on the suspension unless fitted as standard either

 

Different if you are going mod-prod

[MattCoggins 3]

Thanks guys, going to keep the car for road modified, I think it 1A class.

 

If thats the case TT205, im talking about seam welding then i wont bother!

 

Can you run rose jointed top mounts for the strut tops?

 

Ive looked through the blue book, it doesnt say anything about rose joints though... do you know where there are some better regs?

 

Matt

[TT205 42]

Send White Pugs a pm - or maybe he'll see it on here

 

As for top mounts - depends on the championship as to how keen they are but as I understand the 'letter of the law' - they can be fitted so long as they came with the struts eg if you have lets say Avo's and have to go to another company for top mounts then the struts don't come with top mounts - I notice gaz now do top mounts that come with the struts

 

see http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=137762

[yellow rallye steve 0]

dosen't the TU24 have 100hp? and the TU3s have 85bhp. The XS engine's are great but i'd have the TU24 over it every day. either way good luck with your project mate!

 

Hi Guys, didn't the British Rallye have 75 bhp, and the XS and Roland Garros have 85 bhp? I do know that my yellow Rallye has a steel block, and I'm sure that the others have Ali blocks. Please correct me if I'm wrong though.

 

Which brings me to the burning question, what is the actual difference?

 

Cheers Steve.