Mi16 Oil Leak

[matthewm 1]

Well I've pretty much given up on finding the cause so will throw it out there!

Have an MI16 with the ally sump spacer, sumpgasket, baffle plate, sumpgasket, tin sump.

Seems to be seeping between the spacer plate and the bottom of the block, have had this for a long time and tried various things over time, including plenty of RTV sealer between the bottom of the block and the spacer plate, cleaning up the bottom of the block, a different spacer plate, new 'L' shape rubber seals on the flywheel end bearing cap. And changing the crank seal, as it seems to be more towards that side of the engine.

At one time it was a fairly bad leak, although it's got a lot better through my various attempts and is not causing me any trouble, it's annoying me that I've failed to cure it!!

So, any suggestions!!??

Almost certain it's nothing to do with the sump gaskets or sump as they've been changed various times.

[welshpug 1,666]

try stag wellseal

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STAG-WELLSEAL-JOINTING-COMPOUND-100ML-NON-FLAMMABLE-NON-HARDENING-BARGAIN-/200679419386?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2eb96cedfa

 

 

its for metal to metal joints like cam carriers.

[matthewm 1]

Ah right, so you think that where the joint is being submersed in oil that the RTV is not up to the job? Cant remember if I tried Hylomar on it, but will give that stuff a shot.

[Anthony 1,003]

Are you sure it is definitely not from the sump to spacer join?

 

Tin sumps I find are a nightmare to get to seal properly, as they seem to distort slightly. Swapping it with another tin sump often achieves nothing as they are often no better, and as such I will generally only use alloy sumps now.

 

A decent RTV sealant is more than up to the job of sealling the spacer to the block, but can be quite fussy - in particular, the surfaces need to be properly degreased, a thin smear of RTV applied (your "plenty" comment suggests you may well have been applying it far too thickly) and then left atleast overnight (if not a day or so) to completely go off before adding oil to the sump.

 

Remember that if you're trying to do the job with the engine in the car, the oil running down the inside of the block can contaiminate the sealant before it's gone off, so I tend to clean/degrease most of the inside of the engine block casing as well - for this reason, it's much easier to get a good seal with the engine out of the car and upside down on an engine stand.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Hylomar is rubbish, I always use Wurth RTV which is used by allot of manufactures, does the job well, But again sump Gaskets I;ve only found OE Pug ones anygood

[matthewm 1]

Definatly not the gaskets guys as find the oil at the joint up above the sandwich plate. Both surfaces were spotless and assembled it upside down out of the car as I was determined to sort it, and think it was 3 weeks before I put any oil in her. Have tried it with less RTV in the past, although out of interest how can too much cause a problem (except for excess breaking loose inside engine and getting sucked up). Thanks.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Don;t mix Gaskets and RTV, one or the other

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

Hylomar is rubbish, I always use Wurth RTV which is used by allot of manufactures, does the job well, But again sump Gaskets I;ve only found OE Pug ones anygood

 

I wouldn't say Hylomar is rubbish, depends on the application. Used it countless of times and always been upto the job.

 

But, yeah. RTV sealant on sump seal both above and below the spacer.

 

Check the hockey stick seals too though.

[large 33]

Happy new year you bum lover.

Have a word with Mr Reed. They use some sort of super stuff on the engines. If you want a hand having a look let me know as I have a lot of time on my hands now.