[engine_work] 205 V6 Project

[marcdimma 1]

hi started coverting my mi16 205 to a 3.0 v6 got the kit of danpug dry fitted the engine god shes close in places diff is close to the subframe not got too shafts or hubs yet trying to get the clearance right carnt find any other threads on the 205 v6

[Tesstuff 222]

205 v6 project 1

 

 

205 v6 project 2

[GLPoomobile 958]

Please take this as friendly advice (since it's intended in that way) - please try to use some punctuation in your posts to break the text down in to manageable chunks. If this turns in to a serious project thread (which I hope it will, as I'd like to see more V6 projects), then a lot of people will be turned off from reading it if the text doesn't make much sense.

 

I'll probably get flamed now for being a Grammar Nazi, or making a (relative) newbie feel unwelcome, but I'm only saying this for the good of everyone.

 

Hope to see more updates on this as it progresses

[welshpug 1,657]

306 v6 project http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=116446

[unariciflocos 49 1 Cars]

I almost finished a conversion like this until I changed my plans for the car. One of the best ways to improve the clearance issues is to make some spacers between the sub frame and the chassis legs. 15 mm should do and get some longer bolts.

Edited November 21, 2011 by unariciflocos

[welshpug 1,657]

yup, we went for 10mm to minimise effects of altering wishbone angles, i believe miles did the same with the 309, you can use the original bolts at 10mm

[unariciflocos 49 1 Cars]

The tough jobs are the top mount, shafts, sub frame and clutch adapter. As long as you have these the rest should be relatively straightforward.

[james_pug 26 1 Cars]

Any more pictures of the subframe?

 

I've had to lower my subframe around 5mm to clear the driveshaft gaiters mainly, they all seem to be different.

[marcdimma 1]

i had to fit big spacers for the subframe to clear the diff housing .The subframe has already been modified to fit but as i didint do it im unsure of how much space im left with. looking at the frame as it is now it needs more cuttuing n shaping to allow it to sit higher also got 306 hubs and need the 309 wishbones as the 205 wishbones are too short.How have you done your subframe james ill get some more pics of the subframe

[unariciflocos 49 1 Cars]

That's an unsafe amount of spacers... I'd look at tilting the engine a bit, I remember extending the bottom mount by a centimeter or two, or maybe doing some more work on the sub frame.

[welshpug 1,657]

yup, that's definitely too much.

[dcc 855]

mayve just raise the engine by an inch on the other mounts.

[marcdimma 1]

Thanks for the info the lower mount seems to tilt up as if the subframe is too low as im going of some1 elses work im guess at the min to get it right i did get a gearbox mount that has been moded to raise the engine up . does any1 have some pics of there spacers and subframe cuts try compare to mine

[james_pug 26 1 Cars]

I think raising the engine would cause more problems than it's worth with servo/master cylinder clearance, exhaust manifold to bulkhead and engine to bonnet clearance. One of the first bits I cut off my subframe was the 205 lower fork mount position IMO it was to high up and the fork would of had to sit at to much of an angle to work properly. I have a lot of pictures of my subframe in various stages try having a look at my thread on psooc I'll upload the other pics of my subframe to photobucket when I get a chance.

[james_pug 26 1 Cars]

 

 

Can just make out the spacers on my subframe and my lower engine mount.

[marcdimma 1]

ill have a butcher. gunna try avoid raising the engine did u mod your gearbox mount too raise it not checked for bonnet clearance yet gunna raise subframe to 10mm spacer then set about the subframe to make it fit

[Tesstuff 222]

There are no bonnet clearance issues at all, it is nowhere near the bonnet.

 

I have had both auto and standard bonnets on mine and there is plenty of space with even the standard one.

Edited November 22, 2011 by Tesstuff

[james_pug 26 1 Cars]

Just uploaded a load of pics to photobucket if you want a look at anything. My gearbox mount is just standard. Mines fairly close to the front bar of the bonnet enough room that it'll never be a problem though.

 

http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y102/rs50/v6%20205/?src=wap

Edited November 22, 2011 by james_pug

[thirdtimelucky 3]

You want to avoid spacing the subframe where possible. Apart from changing the suspension geometry the subframe is under a lot of extra stress from the heaver engine and the fact that a lot of the structure has been cut out to make room for the exhaust and diff. I moved the pedal box and servo up so I could lift the engine so the cv joints clear the subframe. I've used group N engine mounts to stop some of the engine movement.

 

Some photos of my v6

[Goliath 94]

Hi,

 

I sent you a reply to your PM.

 

Having had look at the pictures you have put up something definitely looks a little odd.

 

Firstly the diff looks in the wrong place, the bit that it close to/touching the subframe should fit better into the cut out that it is next to. It might be the photo but it looks way off to me.

 

Secondly, in the picture you posted showing the engine bay from the top, is the engine fixed on all the mounts? It looks too low at the front and high at the back, the oil dipstick should be just about level with where the slam panel should fit, it looks a couple of inches lower then that. I think I spaced my engine up on the mounts about 5mm and spaced the subframe down about 5mm using headbolt spacers. I put a spacer between the SES top mount and the rubber mount it sits on, on the gearbox I put a spacer between the battery tray and the rubber mount.

Notice how much 'higher' mine seems to sit in this pic (look near the dipstick).

 

Thirdly, those driveshafts look like the ones I was using, they were made to be long enough to use with 309 wishbones but you can still use them with 205 wishbones, you just have to push the driveshaft into the springloaded CV cup further.

 

Hope this helps, let me know if you have any more questions and I will do my best to answer them.

Edited November 23, 2011 by Goliath

[marcdimma 1]

thanks for advice got engine sat something like only got 10mm spacers on the subframe also got correct spacer for top mount sit ok got some room.do i need to be worried about positive camber with the 306 hubs and 309 wishbones.ive tryed to fit the 205 wishbones seems a tight fit takes some force to push the shaft into the cup then fit the wishbone to the hub

[marcdimma 1]

quick update had a go at mounting the rad and fan ive had to stop my self as all i seem too be doing is cutting my front bumper too bits and still needs more off its mainly the alternator thats hitting now got about 10 too 15mm at the exhaust manifold engine is sat at the correct high now only got 10mm spacers fitted driveshafts clear ok.Gunna make a front frame to support the legs of the car and make some brakets for the rad but carnt do this until i get the clearance from the rad .Is it just cos i have a dimma bumper or is this normaly an issue

[marcdimma 1]

Think off sorted it bit more cutting of the front bumper to bring it forward also got my front crossmember tacked on gunna remove the engine after everythings dry fitted then do a bit strenthening.got some nice shinny powder coated parts to go on.Ive got my self some motodrive side mounted bucket seats does any1 have some pics or ideas on how to fit them i thought about getting rid off the old mounts and fitteing some bars across to take the side mounts unless some1 has a better way

[unariciflocos 49 1 Cars]

I used the 205 alternator which is a lot smaller compared to the V6 one. I also noticed that that bumper you have there is a 205 item.

 

And a last remark, I'm finding it extremely difficult to decipher your posts...

Edited November 28, 2011 by unariciflocos

[marcdimma 1]

thanks ive got a few spare gti alternators sorry for the confusion im gti drivers virgin