Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
Gavin Waddell

Fitting Buckets

Recommended Posts

Gavin Waddell

I fitted buckets in my car a while ago but was never happy with the position off centre on the steering wheel, and not low enough so was going to refitt them but cutting and welding the exhaust tunnel, i remember seeing pics in certain people posts but cant seem to find them. I know that it means cutting the tunnel and fabricating a new section out of sheet steel.

My real question is what thickness steel to use? i was going to use a thicker steel so i can start the weld on the thicker steel and bring it over to the car body.

 

My other quaestion was for the seat bars i was going to use 3mm thick rectangular section, i wondering how do you fix the mounting bolt to the bar, drill hole through the bar and weld a nut underneath? Or machine a plug that fits in the tube and weld it in at the bottom so it takes the compression of the bolt being tightened?

 

thanks Gavin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Atari Boy

I have lowered my seats with altering the tunnel, Engine Killer's car was used for ideas. I will try and post up photos of both when I am back on a computer.

Edited by Atari Boy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cameron

The best way to mount them is to weld some tabs on to your rails, then you can either weld nuts / studs to them or just leave the holes blank. Either way, the important benefit is that your threads stay inside the car. When I did mine I drilled through the rail and bolted through from the underside, not only was it very fiddly to get the seats in and out but the threads would rust after a while making it difficult to remove.

 

I fitted a set of lowered mounts to Gary's car a few years ago and did a much better job of it.

 

SSL21528.jpg

 

In this photo you can see what I mean a little better, I opted to fit some captive studs.

 

SSL21530.jpg

 

PS you should use 1.6mm sheet for the body modifications, although it's only 1mm standard. For that reason I'd recommend welding in some reinforcement plates around the rails too, you can see them in the pics above. 3mm is way too thick for the rails though, I used 25mm x 25mm x 1.5mm ERW steel box and it's plenty.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Gavin Waddell

cheers guys, cameron i saw that you used the original mounting point for the eye bolt, where did you put in inner one?

 

Thanks Gavin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

if you ever intend to compete n the car there needs to be a 3mm plate of a certain minimum area where the bars meet the floor/sills.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cameron

Oh really? Is that on top of the original metalwork thickness?

 

Gavin - I put it on the exhaust tunnel if my memory serves me right, can't find any pics of it though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SPGTi

if you ever intend to compete n the car there needs to be a 3mm plate of a certain minimum area where the bars meet the floor/sills.

 

Where does it state this in the blue book ? I have only ever seen the thickness of the seat mounts being referred to. My car has been log booked and through scrutineering loads of times without any problems and I don't have 3mm plates where the seat rails meet the body.

 

Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

Its how I've seen other cars done and how I've interpreted it, most seat bar kits come with some 40sq cm plates.

 

 

2.2.1. Supports must be attached to the shell/chassis

via at least 4 mounting points per seat using bolts with

a minimum diameter of 8mm and counterplates,

according to drawing No. K32. The minimum area of

contact between support, shell/chassis and

counterplate is 40 sq cm for each mounting point. If

quick release systems are used, they must be capable

of withstanding vertical and horizontal forces of

18000N, applied non-simultaneously. If rails for

adjusting the seat are used, they must be those

originally supplied with the homologated car or with the

seat.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
engine killer

I have lowered my seats with altering the tunnel, Engine Killer's car was used for ideas. I will try and post up photos of both when I am back on a computer.

Yes, as a copy-cat I have copied a different ideas from here :lol:

post-4860-0-09424500-1321251166_thumb.jpg

post-4860-0-74536700-1321251176_thumb.jpg

post-4860-0-48413900-1321251188_thumb.jpg

post-4860-0-89206100-1321251197_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
engine killer

I am sorry that I copied and reposted someone elses' pictures here. But they are very helpful.

 

post-4860-0-89693200-1321251290_thumb.jpg

 

post-4860-0-47080200-1321251304_thumb.jpg

 

post-4860-0-30657600-1321251331_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cameron

Its how I've seen other cars done and how I've interpreted it, most seat bar kits come with some 40sq cm plates.

 

 

2.2.1. Supports must be attached to the shell/chassis

via at least 4 mounting points per seat using bolts with

a minimum diameter of 8mm and counterplates,

according to drawing No. K32. The minimum area of

contact between support, shell/chassis and

counterplate is 40 sq cm for each mounting point. If

quick release systems are used, they must be capable

of withstanding vertical and horizontal forces of

18000N, applied non-simultaneously. If rails for

adjusting the seat are used, they must be those

originally supplied with the homologated car or with the

seat.

 

I read that as a counterplate being a load spreading washer, used where the mount is bolted to the shell / chassis.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SPGTi

I read that as a counterplate being a load spreading washer, used where the mount is bolted to the shell / chassis.

 

 

Me as well, which is confirmed by the diagram that is refered to.

 

Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cameron

Interpretation of the rulebook is what wins and loses races. ;)

 

If you use 3mm thick material when 1.5mm is plenty strong enough because you've misunderstood the rules, think of all the extra weight you're dragging around.

Edited by Cameron

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
EdCherry

You can only be as clever as the person scrutinising your car...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Baz

Yep, and they're a law unto themselves sometimes...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×