Cannot Lock-Up Wheels!

[Jonny Shu 0]

Hi there,

 

After sorting the handbrake with a new cable, which is now a dream (thanks to everyone for the advice), I thought I'd just take the car for a quick spin to make sure the braking was even and there was no swerving to one side under heavy breaking. The good thing was that the brakes worked evenly with no swerve, but the bad thing was that no matter how hard I pressed on the pedal I could NOT get the wheels to lock...! I didn't try this before I took the drums apart, but everything has been done correctly as far as I know so I don't think anything has changed there.

 

What are the common causes of this...is this common of bog-standard 205s...!?

What can I do to improve the braking?

 

Cheers,

 

Jonny

[feb 47]

You may not be trying hard enough.

Are the discs/pads glazed?

If so a few enthusiastic brakings from 90-30 in a private road would sort this out.

Edited November 11, 2011 by feb

[Anthony 1,002]

Does it have Bendix calipers on the front? They're notorious for underwhelming stopping power if they're worn and knackered like most are.

[omega 82]

Does it have Bendix calipers on the front? They're notorious for underwhelming stopping power if they're worn and knackered like most are.

 

i think he means the rears as he talks about drums

[Baz 421]

If everything's new then it might need to bed in a little before you get full effort from them.

 

I presume the system's been bled with no air left in too?

 

Did you re-fit the drums (either new or with the 'lips' from previous wear ground down) so they were just tight going back over the shoes? This can make a big difference to both the pedal feel and rear brake effort.

 

You can also adjust the shoes the same way you can back them off for easy removal of worn drums, via the adjuster through a wheel-bolt hole.

[ORB 227 1 Cars]

And take up cable slack at the adjuster in the back of the handbrake lever.

[ORB 227 1 Cars]

And take up cable slack at the adjuster in the back of the handbrake lever.

[Tom Fenton 1,540]

And take up cable slack at the adjuster in the back of the handbrake lever.

That will only effect the handbrake travel though. One mistake that I've seen a lot from amateur mechanics is trying to adjust up the rear brakes by using the handbrake cable. This is a bad idea as it cockles the shoes over meaning you will never get full shoe to drum contact, which is what gives you the best rear braking effort.

 

If it will not lock up the fronts then something is amiss, the 1600 brakes when in good condition are more than adequate for the car.

[ORB 227 1 Cars]

Tom, the point I was making was to adjust the cables AFTER adjusting the shoes to allow maximum efficiency of the parking brake. That's why I said 'AND take up cable slack....'

 

I have seen many cars with loose cables thus not allowing maximum performance. I agree that you MUST start at the business end of the system..

 

(Please note, I am not trying to sound a cock or mean you any disrespect Mr Fenton, it's hard to put words across in text form due to lack of emotion, I'm merely clarifying the point rather than trying to argue/be a tw@t in general)

[Tom Fenton 1,540]

Fair enough comment, but in constructive critique your one line didn't really explain the full story if I am honest?

 

Anyway I think we have discussed it to death now,

[ORB 227 1 Cars]

Agreed. My laziness is at fault.

 

Brakes slow you down. You don't need em!

 

I'm going to scurry off and look at weird YouTube videos now.

[Baz 421]

Fair enough comment, but in constructive critique your one line didn't really explain the full story if I am honest?

 

Anyway I think we have discussed it to death now,

 

I saw it as following on from my post so it don't think it needed an essay Mr Plusnet!

 

Let's just make sure though, double check pulse... aaand.. bury it...

[feb 47]

On another note I was told that the handbrake should be adjusted with the rear on the air because if you do so with the wheels on the ground, when the car is on the air it will pull the handbrake.

This was done on my 1.9

[Anthony 1,002]

On another note I was told that the handbrake should be adjusted with the rear on the air because if you do so with the wheels on the ground, when the car is on the air it will pull the handbrake.

This was done on my 1.9

It's the other way around - the lower the car, the more it will typically pull on the handbrake cable, and thus should be set with the car on the ground at normal ride height - if you set it whilst it's in the air, you can end up with the rear brakes dragging as the handbrake is always on slightly.

 

Easy enough to demonstrate - have lots of weight in the back of the car and park on a hill with the handbrake applied just enough to hold the car. Remove the weight, and the car will start to roll because the brakes have partly released - I deliberately have to leave my cars in gear on my sloping driveway when I'm unloading things like an engine, set of wheels etc from the boot for that very reason, particularly my 306 as the handbrake (like most disk braked 306's) is distinctly rubbish.

[Jonny Shu 0]

You may not be trying hard enough.

Are the discs/pads glazed?

If so a few enthusiastic brakings from 90-30 in a private road would sort this out.

 

 

Front wheels locked! I think that you were closest with this Feb, it has been standing a little while and brakes were definitely performing better 2nd time out. Now have a slight problem in that the left hand wheel is locking before the right, and sent me a bit sideways at one point! From what I've heard it could be that the right-side piston may need a little more lubrication so it moves more freely, can anyone back this up or offer some other explanations?

 

Cheers

[trogboy 17]

I take it that you have checked your tyre pressures?