Help, What This?

[Sean27 0]

So I've had problems with starting my car it's phase 1.5 and I've read about this brown multiplug which cause a starting problem. I need to know the location for this plug and a diagram how to bypass it.

 

Also, the shunt wire does it go from starter alternator

 

And finally what's this

It's a little black box what goes to the battery with 4 plug points on it and 6 fuse, what are the fuses for??

 

 

Wiring is not my strong point, lots of detail would be great cheers sean

[allye 530 3 Cars]

Thats part of the shunt box and should be attatched to the front panel behind the n/s headlight. Reference the brown multiplug, you shouldn't need to bypass it just unplug it give it a good clean/de-corrode it. Its located under the steering column.

[Sean27 0]

Cheers, so does the shunt wire go from shunt box to alternator or starter to alternator,

 

Thanks

[Baz 421]

Depends what you mean by 'shunt wire'?

[Baz 421]

The pos power lead from the battery feeds the starter then alternator, the starter solenoid wire comes from the brown multi-plug to the spade on the starter.

Edited October 23, 2011 by Baz

[GLPoomobile 958]

Thats part of the shunt box and should be attatched to the front panel behind the n/s headlight. Reference the brown multiplug, you shouldn't need to bypass it just unplug it give it a good clean/de-corrode it. Its located under the steering column.

 

Not that brown plug. The ones under the steering column rarely give any problems because they are inside the car.

 

The problematic brown plug is usually above the gearbox. If you've still got the original airbox assembly, you'll probably find it easier if you remove the rubber air pipe and AFM as the brown plug will be down under there somewhere. Ideally what you want to do is chop out the plug, and cut an inch or two off of each end of the wire (as it'll probably be corroded and brittle) and the rejoin the wires. You could fit a new plug (Superseal being a common choice), or you could solder and wrap it. One good option is to use a glue butt joint - you put the ends of the wires to be joined inside the butt joint, crimp them down in the middle, then use some heat on it and the glue inside melts to form a rock hard and weather proof seal.

 

The shunt box supplies +12v to both the alternator and the starter motor. You can either have one cable that goes to the starter, and then another cable that piggy-backs off of that to the alternator, or you can have two seperate cables from the shunt box to the starter and alternator. Doesn't matter how you do it, as long as both starter and alternator have a +12v cable routed between them and the shunt box.

[Anthony 1,003]

Strictly speaking, the shunt box doesn't provide power to the starter or alternator - these go direct from the battery positive terminal.

 

Shunt box powers the main fuse box (which in turn powers most of the interior, lights etc), the radiator cooling fan, the engine management, and if fitted, the ABS.

[GLPoomobile 958]

I'm going by distant memories here, but doesn't the +12v supply go to the shunt box, and from there you have a +12v supply going to the starter and alternator? The shunt box is a fused connection.

Edited October 23, 2011 by GLPoomobile

[SurGie 54]

Correct ^^ i have recently had my starter loom wires renewed. Its more of a junction box, does not supply power its just used along the power lines.

[Anthony 1,003]

I'm going by distant memories here, but doesn't the +12v supply go to the shunt box, and from there you have a +12v supply going to the starter and alternator? The shunt box is a fused connection.

There's two cables coming from the positive battery terminal - one feeds the starter/alternator directly (unfused) and the other feeds the shunt box (which in turn feeds the other parts mentioned through the fuses/links located in the top of the shunt box). You can remove the shunt box completely and the starter/alternator will still have power, although clearly you wouldn't be able to do much with them seeing as the car interior (and thus ignition circuit) would be dead without the shunt box.

 

From memory Phase 1's are slightly different, but that's certainly how Phase 1.5 and Phase 2's are done.

[GLPoomobile 958]

Right enough, it's been that long since I've been under the bonnet!

 

Just had a look at one of the pictures from mine and it does have 1 cable to the starter/alternator and another to the shunt box.

[Sean27 0]

Correct ^^ i have recently had my starter loom wires renewed. Its more of a junction box, does not supply power its just used along the power lines.

Where and who did you new loom? How much was it?

[Sean27 0]

Not that brown plug. The ones under the steering column rarely give any problems because they are inside the car.

 

The problematic brown plug is usually above the gearbox. If you've still got the original airbox assembly, you'll probably find it easier if you remove the rubber air pipe and AFM as the brown plug will be down under there somewhere. Ideally what you want to do is chop out the plug, and cut an inch or two off of each end of the wire (as it'll probably be corroded and brittle) and the rejoin the wires. You could fit a new plug (Superseal being a common choice), or you could solder and wrap it. One good option is to use a glue butt joint - you put the ends of the wires to be joined inside the butt joint, crimp them down in the middle, then use some heat on it and the glue inside melts to form a rock hard and weather proof seal.

 

The shunt box supplies +12v to both the alternator and the starter motor. You can either have one cable that goes to the starter, and then another cable that piggy-backs off of that to the alternator, or you can have two seperate cables from the shunt box to the starter and alternator. Doesn't matter how you do it, as long as both starter and alternator have a +12v cable routed between them and the shunt box.

Cheers really helpful answer! Gonna chop the god damn brown plug up tomorrow , I'll take lots of picture for future useless people like me

[SurGie 54]

Where and who did you new loom? How much was it?

 

 

I made it up myself using products from THIS place. I just copied my original battery loom using heat sleeves around the new connectors etc.

 

From the look of yours it looks like someones messed about with it before now, they tend to have the same battery looms. You have a red wire coming from the two nut and stud end section instead of the usual yellow coloured wire.

 

Iv used a higher rating wire due to my engine conversion and future plans etc, this is to stop any melting when higher power is needed, but not to high either. The brown connector plug thats on the battery loom is a tester for the rad fan. It has three connectors, join the middle with one of the end ones separately for fast or slow fan speed, with a small screwdriver.

 

If you want i have some new fixing bolts you can have to replace the old rusty ones, i had to buy ten as one lot and iv only used two of them for mine. I have a picture somewhere of the new one i made.

 

 

If you save the picture you can then zoom in to get a closer look at it for your reference.

 

Hope this helps

[Sean27 0]

I made it up myself using products from THIS place. I just copied my original battery loom using heat sleeves around the new connectors etc.

 

From the look of yours it looks like someones messed about with it before now, they tend to have the same battery looms. You have a red wire coming from the two nut and stud end section instead of the usual yellow coloured wire.

 

Iv used a higher rating wire due to my engine conversion and future plans etc, this is to stop any melting when higher power is needed, but not to high either. The brown connector plug thats on the battery loom is a tester for the rad fan. It has three connectors, join the middle with one of the end ones separately for fast or slow fan speed, with a small screwdriver.

 

If you want i have some new fixing bolts you can have to replace the old rusty ones, i had to buy ten as one lot and iv only used two of them for mine. I have a picture somewhere of the new one i made.

 

 

If you save the picture you can then zoom in to get a closer look at it for your reference.

 

Hope this helps

Yeah someone really cut them and messed about, so I don't really trust them! Look at my o/s loom

 

 

That shunt box loom looks super clean! Ive removed mine and gonna do the same

[Anthony 1,003]

To be fair, the wiring is always a bit messy around the passenger side headlight.

 

That however, is a state, and pretty much an "I Spy" of shoddy wiring repairs.

 

As for that melted earth wiring, clearly someone's made a wiring hash-up somewhere (plugging the fan plug into the shunt box is a favourite) or something failed big time to draw enough current to do that. Needless to say, that'll all need to be properly replaced and the root cause identified and fixed.

[Sean27 0]

To be fair, the wiring is always a bit messy around the passenger side headlight.

 

That however, is a state, and pretty much an "I Spy" of shoddy wiring repairs.

 

As for that melted earth wiring, clearly someone's made a wiring hash-up somewhere (plugging the fan plug into the shunt box is a favourite) or something failed big time to draw enough current to do that. Needless to say, that'll all need to be properly replaced and the root cause identified and fixed.

Shoddy is def the right word!