What Arb To Use

[Pugmanian Devil 1]

Hi all,

 

I have spent hours reading all the pinned threads in relation to topic, but like to get an idea of peoples opinions on my current situation.... I am currently using the SBC Fast Road Kit (with Eibach pro front springs) & SBC neg rear camber kit.

I am planning on fitting 21mm torsion bars along with a 23mm rear ARB, my question....Does anyone think this might throw the balance off at the front due to the back been stiffened, regardless of the eibach springs and the SBC dampers..(Not that there super stiff, which there not) would the front ARB be too weak for what's going on the back? I think its 17mm on the front.

Has anyone had this or similiar setup if so what's you're views on this?

Tyre-wise im using yoko parada spec 2's atm (not the best tyre's i've used) ....bring back the Bridgestone SO2's i say Pressure's set to 30psi front & back, the car also has a Quaiffe diff...

 

Lastly could someone tell me if front toe is better set to toe out or to be neutral, currently i have +1 toe out. Does anyone know what the standard toe angle was on the back of a late 1.9 gti? (now that i have the ability to adjust this, would like to have a starting point)

 

Best regards

 

Tas

Edited September 29, 2011 by Pugmanian Devil

[Baz 421]

If the bars are only 19mm standard items now, what made you think of going a 2mm jump when you're leaving the front springs as-is? If you like the way it drives now, perhaps leave as -is and just try the rear ARB change? This alone will change alot! I'd certainly suggest doing things singularly in stages so you know what you've actually changed, 'developing' the car in stages!

 

I find the Eibachs very good and pretty well matched to the standard rear, but if anything a little stiff, definitely understeers a little more. I'd go up to 20mm bars to re-address the brilliant balance they have from standard. (This is what i have for my own car with 24mm rear ARB, but then i like a stiff rear!)

 

The front ARB doesn't need to be touched IMO, but again personal preference here.

 

Standard toe figures are usually -/+1iirc, but many, myself included prefer a neutral setup, 0. Rear again is about -1 as standard, but again i like neutral.

[Toddy 7]

Hi all,

 

I have spent hours reading all the pinned threads in relation to topic, but like to get an idea of peoples opinions on my current situation.... I am currently using the SBC Fast Road Kit (with Eibach pro front springs) & SBC neg rear camber kit.

I am planning on fitting 21mm torsion bars along with a 23mm rear ARB, my question....Does anyone think this might throw the balance off at the front due to the back been stiffened, regardless of the eibach springs and the SBC dampers..(Not that there super stiff, which there not) would the front ARB be too weak for what's going on the back? I think its 17mm on the front.

Has anyone had this or similiar setup if so what's you're views on this?

Tyre-wise im using yoko parada spec 2's atm (not the best tyre's i've used) ....bring back the Bridgestone SO2's i say Pressure's set to 30psi front & back, the car also has a Quaiffe diff...

 

Lastly could someone tell me if front toe is better set to toe out or to be neutral, currently i have +1 toe out. Does anyone know what the standard toe angle was on the back of a late 1.9 gti? (now that i have the ability to adjust this, would like to have a starting point)

 

Best regards

 

Tas

 

At present you have the Skip Brown Cars (SBC) phase 1 suspension kit which includes uprated front and rear dampers + springs.

 

SBC Phase 2 is the next stage building on the fact you already have the SBC phase 1 kit, this tightens up the rear end with a negative camber kit, 20mm T/B's & 23mm ARB giving a neutral handling car.

[Pugmanian Devil 1]

At present you have the Skip Brown Cars (SBC) phase 1 suspension kit which includes uprated front and rear dampers + springs.

 

SBC Phase 2 is the next stage building on the fact you already have the SBC phase 1 kit, this tightens up the rear end with a negative camber kit, 20mm T/B's & 23mm ARB giving a neutral handling car.

 

Thanks for some clarity on this.... I was under the impression that the phase 2 kit from sbc consisted of 21mm TB's (not 20mm) 23mm ARB. The negative camber kit (to which i already have fitted)

So would i be correct to say, if i was to fit the 21mm TB's (seem as i have them already) along with the 23mm ARB, the negative rear camber kit is already fitted, swap the eibachs for the springs that were supplied with the dampers originally when i bought the phase 1 kit from SBC, all this together would make for a neutral handling setup?... Also like Baz stated, perhaps it's best to fit items individually and see how the cars reacting, rather than fit it all in one go.. i better get started then

 

Cheers guy's

[Anthony 1,002]

From what I've gathered, the SBC Phase 2 setup was mostly 20mm (as mine is) but the later ones I believe were 21mm, possibly due to availability issues with the PTS torsion bars. Either way, the 1mm difference won't have a dramatic effect and is fine with typical lowering springs on the front - even 22's seem to work surprisingly well as I had some fitted to my own car for a few months a couple of years back.

 

2052006 (Pete) on here is running a pseudo SBC Phase 1+2 equivalent setup using new SBC dampers/springs together with 21mm torsion bars, 23mm rear ARB and ZX arms that he got from me, and was very happy with the results last time I spoke to him. Drop him a PM and I'm sure that he'd be happy to share his thoughts with you, as he put it together step by step in order to get a feel for how each part affected the handling.

[shalmaneser 26]

I'm currently running Eibach on the front with a 309 back end with 24mm ARB. With the standard 309 ARB the car definitely understeered far too much for my liking but with the 24mm rear ARB the balance is much much better.

 

Need to take it out in the wet to find out which end will let go first and how it reacts to lift off but there's no way you can unstick either end at the moment in the dry with the current setup unless you're driving like a total bellend. I'm very impressed with how she's driving right now.

 

However bear in mind I'm running a GTI6 engine so a bit more front heavy if your running an 8V.

[kubas 0]

Is it possible to buy only rear neg camber kit from SBC at the moment ? What's in this kit ?

[Pugmanian Devil 1]

Is it possible to buy only rear neg camber kit from SBC at the moment ? What's in this kit ?

Yes you can buy just the neg camber kit from SBC, the kit will get you both rear angled stub axle's that will replace your standard ones and all relevant nuts/bolts. The SBC stub axles allow you to rotate the angled stub axles in return affecting the camber and toe. They give you the ability to alter the camber and toe of the rear wheels... Nice bit of kit IMO.

[oli-pug 6 2 Cars]

I'm interested in the SBC rear stub axles, does anyone know the exact range of toe and camber achievable with them? I'm considering running a small amount of toe out at the rear now as my car is going to be primarily for track next year.

[Cameron 16]

I have a set of SBC arms Oli, PM me if you want them.

[oli-pug 6 2 Cars]

pm'd you Cam my old fruit

[welshpug 1,655]

they aren't designed to be adjustable as such, they have a pre-set spec and can be tweaked to perfect it.

[Anthony 1,002]

As Mei said - they could be adjusted away from their designed spec, but then the disk and pads won't run true to each other unless you re-machined the caliper spacer plates to suit.

 

You'd really be best off getting someone like Martin (CRF450) to machine the arms to give you the geometry that you require.

[oli-pug 6 2 Cars]

Cheers, it doesnt sound like the sbc kit will give me the geometry im after plus there will be clearance issues if they add track width. Im already on a 309 beam with 7j wheels and its toight! Ill get in contact with Martin.

[welshpug 1,655]

just stick a 205 beam on

[oli-pug 6 2 Cars]

I have thought about that, but itd probably cost me more in the long run forking out for torsion bars and arb all over again as the prices have increased since i built my 309 beam. I know my beam is sound so im a bit dubious to change.

[Cameron 16]

If you can find a mug willing to fork out for a 309 beam ( ) then they go for a LOT more than 205 beams do! Seeing as TB's retain their value very well I reckon you could fund a 205 beam with better geometry for what you get for your 309 beam & bars.

 

309 beams just aren't worth the hassle. I'm not just saying that so you buy my arms either!

[oli-pug 6 2 Cars]

Sounds like a lot of effort to me Cam Take it you've sold your beam now?

[Cameron 16]

It's reserved, yes.