baz205gti 0 1 Cars Posted September 19, 2011 (edited) hi, Just had my rear beam redone (new bearings and trailing arm shafts) the main tube is back on the car and im trying to get the trailing arms back into the main tube, not sure how much of a hammering i should be giving it, not got the clubb hammer out yet but using a claw hammer i have got it to about 30mm to go. Just wanted to check that this is normal and im not about to put my beam back on the fecked pile? Need a heads up from a person in the know on how much force is required to drive these home?? Edited September 19, 2011 by baz205gti Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daviewonder 533 3 Cars Posted September 19, 2011 Should just slide home without the use of a hammer mate. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,646 Posted September 19, 2011 sounds like you may have damaged the bearings when fitting them if you need to use force to get the arm shafts in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,002 Posted September 19, 2011 As said, something isn't right - assuming that the torsion bars etc are removed, the arms should ideally slide into the tube/bearings easily, or certainly with nothing more than a few light gentle taps. Needing to wallop it in with a hammer isn't normal or right at all. Given that you mention that it's had new shafts - were these pattern items per chance? I had a beam recently that someone had fitted these to, and gave a very similar issue, and swapping it with a used OE shaft fixed the issue - I can only assume that the new pattern shaft was fractionally out of tolerance or something. More likely that the bearings aren't aligned properly or are damaged/deformed though. Are both sides the same? Oh, and be VERY careful where you're hitting it with a hammer if you're going to continue knocking the arm in - the area around the offset washer on the passenger side arm is very weak and deforms easily, which will cause you no end of hassle when you try and fit the torsion bar and offset washer back in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
baz205gti 0 1 Cars Posted September 19, 2011 cheers guys, will have to pop the side i started with out and see whats what, i have mircometer, anyone know what the shaft should measure for the bearings ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CosKev 16 Posted September 20, 2011 Why have you put the tube on the car first? Surely building the beam up on the floor is easier? Then lift it up into position complete. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,646 Posted September 20, 2011 swings and roundabouts, quite a faff getting a complete beam up on your own, whereas its no more difficult to stick it together on the car. dismantling I agree is easier off the car though Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CosKev 16 Posted September 20, 2011 Not a sniff I would build one on the car Harder to see whats goin on on the other end of beam,working kneeling down(unless on a ramp of course;) ), have to lie on back to set up dummy shock etc. Build it on a bench/stands,lift into place with a trolley jack complete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
baz205gti 0 1 Cars Posted September 20, 2011 either way i dont mind, i have a nice big work shop/garage, only ever swapped beams in past so this is my first rebuild anyway update on whats happening, the shaft goes in really nicely and stops with 25mm to go on both sides, now i put a tape measure in and measured from inner bearing to outter seal (210mm) then measured from the inner end of the shaft down toward the trailing arm and marked the grease at 210mm and low and behold 25mm ish left. looks like the shaft is stopping dead on the inner bearings ?? any chance these bearing are round the wrong way or does it not matter ?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jord294 89 Posted September 20, 2011 have you used pattern part bearings? as maybe there is more of a shoulder on the outer race. that together with pattern part trailing arm shafts, which may have less of a chamfer on the end, maybe the cause of the shaft not sliding in easy just an idea Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
baz205gti 0 1 Cars Posted September 21, 2011 i sent the main tube and shafts away to be re engineered in wiltshire, new original bearring were fitted and my shafts were re engineered and case hardened, the chap is on holiday at min so cant chat with him, really just want to know if someone has some inner bearings to hand whether they are directional fitting or with go in either way round ? if they are fittable either way round i'll just give it a bit more of a tap, as it will just a bit tight, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leet205 48 Posted September 21, 2011 The inner bearings are directional, the writing on the case should be facing you Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,646 Posted September 21, 2011 sounds like that shaft is too big then, the bearings are sided but will not affect them fitting the shaft Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alastairh 47 Posted September 21, 2011 Perhaps the bearings were damaged when fitted. I've seen that before. Al Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davey sprocket 14 Posted September 26, 2011 The inner bearings are directional, the writing on the case should be facing you Hmmm.... There's always something waiting to catch you out isn't there? I'm mid beam rebuild and didn't realise there was a right and wrong way for the bearings, they looked to be the same from both sides and are in place now. I've tried peering down the tube to see if I can see writing on either side but I can't. How much of a problem is it if they're the wrong way round?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miles 331 1 Cars Posted September 26, 2011 None at all, bearings are the same both ways as are the seals Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davey sprocket 14 Posted September 26, 2011 Thanks Miles! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites