205 Mi16 Conversion Questions

[Carbs4me 45]

Hello,

 

 

im getting ever so close to building up my Mi16 engine, but i have a few grey areas that i hope some of you can help me with:

 

 

1) It does say Mi16 conversion. is this what i should buy? http://www.bakerbm.com/205.php?data=engkitn205

 

2) will i need this? and will it help? http://www.bakerbm.com/205.php?data=engfbusha205

 

3) gear linkage im still unsure about as i havent aquired a gearbox yet. but to say if i got a GTI6 or VTS box would there be any changes?

 

4) under inspection of the cyclinder head i think there was a spacer either missing or it was placed in the incorrect place when it was stripped down. how many of these are there ment to be?

 

Cheers

[Baz 421]

1 & 2, Not necessarily, but they may help if your exhaust is particularly close to things being stiffer/not old worn standard stuff, thus limiting movement.

 

3. Not if you change the top selector arm on the 'box as usual, the linkages stay the same.

 

4. Head bolt spacers? There should be at least one under each headbolt iirc, yes.

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

1. As it is going into a 205, then yeah you should use the 205 uprated bushes. The rear lower is the same as on the 306, but the main engine, and gearbox mounts are smaller on the 205.

 

2. Yeah that will help the engine rocking backwards.

 

3. I think I am right in saying all BE3 linkages will be the same. If you used a GTi6 box, then you would need the lift up reverse cable ( I have some of these if you go down that road)

 

4. Do you mean the locating dowels? I am unsure, but that is the correct term as far as I am aware which may make searching easier.

[Anthony 1,003]

1. I would say that a Group N lower mount is highly recommended if not nigh-on essential, whereas the rest of the Group N mounts will depend on personal preferences and the tolerances of the shell itself - some cars will need Group N mounts because everything is so tight, whereas others have a bit more space and they're not required. Full Group N mounts do noticeably increase the NVH levels transmitted from the engine into the cabin area, and whilst not an issue on a track car, might be a consideration on a road-going daily driver.

 

2. Not needed for a typical Mi16 conversion, and perhaps not even desireable on a road-going car.

 

3. If you use a non 205/309 gearbox then you'll need to change the selector arm at a minimum. Most later boxes use a pull-type clutch, so you'll either need to swap the clutch arm to a push-type setup as per 205's, or use a pull-clutch and emulate the later setup, and the later diffs won't take a 205 driveshaft so you'll ideally need to swap to a 205 diff too.

 

4. There should be ten cotton-reel shaped headbolt spacers in total on an Mi16, one per headbolt. You don't need the extra headbolt spacer that you do on an 8v as it's pre-cast into the head.

[205BigTosh 0]

Sorry to butt in on your post but does 1+2 help with lowering the engine away from the master cylinder as mine is slightly touching causing a vibration thru the dash when im climbing 2nd and 3rd.

 

or is it just tight for space. ive the 406 16v engine in.

[Anthony 1,003]

Doesn't lower the engine, but rather stops it moving so much under acceleration/cornering.

 

406 16v engine is going to have the same issues as GTi-6 with regards the MC, and most people seem to just tilt the servo/MC upwards slightly, together with grinding away a little of the cam cover, to give clearance. Due to the tolerances, some cars need more adaptation than others in that regard. Group N mounts will certainly help stop the engine moving, once you've created some space between the MC and cam cover.

[Baz 421]

Plus you can lever the engine over before final tightening of the gearbox mount, as well as adding a spacer behind the rear top mount buffer as these will also bring the engine/cambelt cover away from the MC. But again this is a shell build-tolerances issue, some are much better than others!