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chipstick

Gti6 Exh Manifold

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chipstick

Almost ready to test fit my GTi6 engine and sort the clearence issues.

 

I can't weld, so will get an engineering firm to weld the manifold up for me, but I will cut it and bend as needed so it fits my adapted downpipe and pass it on for stitching up.

 

A question I have is, obviously it is better to cut underneath the manifold and then bend down to close the gap to make welding it easier. How much roughly am I looking at cutting out of it, and how far though. I was thinking to cut through 95% and then just bend the very top down. This is all easier said than done. Is it bendable without heat? I can't see there will be much resistance if I cut through most of it.

 

If anyone has a picture of their manifold after reangling, it would be useful to see so I know roughly how I need to cut it.

 

And I am right in saying it is stainless aren't I?

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welshpug

easier option is to just get miles to sort it for you as he has a jig to do it.

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chipstick

But then I would also have to get his downpipe as well. I already have a used downpipe that was reangled to meet a reangled manifold. So I have half the problem sorted, yet need my manifold bending to meet this system exactly.

 

His jig would sort mine to clear the bulkhead, but not necessarily match my downpipe, however that was reangled.

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welshpug

no you wouldnt need his downpipe if you already have a modified one

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chipstick

My concern is, what angle my modifed downpipe is reangled to.

 

If the person who modified it bent the manifold first any more or less than what Miles does then made the downpipe to fit that, then I won't be any better off.

 

If I could be sure they had the downpipe made to meet one of Miles' manifolds, then bobs your uncle, I just fear that won't be the case.

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stuart1298

I haven't had one off miles, but his one is tried tested and had no complaints, if you had to getting a down pipe made is easier than having a manifold worked on

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CosKev

You can get away with abit of difference due to the spring loaded manifold to downpipe connection with sealing ring.

 

Apparently if you use a 6mm disc in your grinder to cut the manifold you will be ok :)

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chipstick

There is always the option of buying one from Miles and then selling it if it doesn't fit. I will have a word with some engineering firms if they want to take on the job of welding up one I cut.

 

Crikey I didn't realise you could be 6mm thick discs. Fairly heavy duty! I only roll with a 115mm :lol:

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harryskid

You really would be best off with one from Miles. I had mine from him at a reasonable price and you would need to supply him a standard one for exchange. Its really well done and takes all the hassel out of it.

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Eliganza

I'm going to weld mine up tomorrow; unsure of the angle i've bent it to, but the gap at it's largest is 5mm. Obviously it's going to be very slightly different for everyone depending on where you cut etc. But i'd say opening the cut to around 5mm should give you roughly the right angle.

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pugpete1108

be carefull how much you cut out.

 

i cut the underside of mine until there was 5mm left connecting it, i used three hacksaw blades thinkness and bent it util it touched then welded it and it moved a massive amount.

 

i would like to add i did change shells so this would have been fine on my old shell, however on this shell it may be nearly too much in the opposite direction (as it may well foul the gear linkage when the downpipe is fitted)

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chipstick

Obviously initially I am going to drop the engine in with a standard manifold bolted up and see what the situation is.

 

Measure twice, cut once :lol:

 

So have you guys found it fairly easy to bend then?

 

I may try it with a good 10mm left at the top connecting it and see if that is easy enough to bend, rather than going nearly all the way through and finding it goes floppy :wub:

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Eliganza

I'd say you have to cut about 90% of the way through it before you can bend it; be careful though, once it gets to that stage it will suddenly give and might move a fair amount, not floppy though haha.

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chipstick

In an ideal world, I will increase the thickness of the cut bit by bit so when it is bang on in position, it will be bent as far as it will go with both joins of the cut touching. Rather than go mad with the grinder and have a large gap to fill with weld.

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