Changed Wheel Bearing And Now Hub Is Not True.. I Think

[kyepan 291]

need a bit of advice.

 

changed the wheel bearing for a decent one on the right front last week.

 

The brakes were making odd noises afterwards.. squeak squeak.. squeeeeak. as you stopped. So i took them apart today and re copperslipped / cleaned everything, checked the carriers, yokes, piston was not bound, pads are fine, i also checked the disc was flat with an engineers straight. and now there is no squeaking noise noise, So the brakes are not the issue, they are only highlighting the issue.

 

But i can hear a pronounced clunk clunk clunk and a pulsing feeling through the car, and on the brakes when i apply them gently. the brakes are binding for half the rotation, and the wheel is getting very hot.

 

Now my friend pressed the bearing in, and is a ford master tech, so he knows what he is doing, and gave me a little lesson in how to use the press properly. The outer circlip went in fine, and so the bearing is at the correct depth. The flange also went on fine, and the driveshaft cup seats nicely against it, and pulled up fine with the hub nut..

 

 

So i think the hub flange is not on true or in true, what on earth have we done wrong with the bearing? we pressed the old one out, it disintegrated as we took it apart, we had to heat the inner race with the oxyacetylene torch to get it off the hub flange. But that appears to be fairly normal, i saw the same thing happen when the last one went.

 

I am for once completely stumped, need to go to oxford tomorrow so i have to remedy what ever it is in the morning.

 

any help appreciated .

 

J

[welshpug 1,646]

did you check the disc runout? may be a very warped disc.

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

Echo warped disc. Get a DTI on it, bolt it up tight to the hub and see what your run out is. 5 thou is normalish for pad knock off, anything more might be your issue.

[Toddy 7]

I take it that it was all ok before you replaced the bearing?

 

1) Clean the hub face with a wire brush and do the same to the rear of the brake disc as you may have something lodged behind causing excessive runout of the disc.

 

2) Your master Tech mate may have bent the caliper mounting holes on the hub carrier slightly getting the bearing in/out.

Edited August 27, 2011 by Toddy

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Won't be warped disc, it's been fine before he's changed the bearing. It was the dogs*it Vtech bearing thats failed.

 

My guess it's the hub thats bent, we will be having a look at it tomorrow i think when Kyepan gives us a ring.

[kyepan 291]

results are in.

 

 

35 thou = 0.9mm run out on the disc

 

and

 

20 thou = 0.5 run out on the hub flange.

 

plotted the flange deflection over 16 points around it's outer edge and it's sinusoidal ish..

 

If i need to change the hub flange is it going to destroy the bearing in the process?

 

have a hub puller.. slide hammer etc.

 

Cheers

 

J

[Tom Fenton 1,536]

It depends how tight the interference between flange and bearing was when you fitted it. They do vary, some I have had could almost be pulled out by hand, others are v.tight.

 

Good luck trying to get it out without scrapping the bearing is all I will say.

[kyepan 291]

Yep, it seems that everyone thinks the bearing will DESTRUCTOR when removing it

 

I guess this is one of those things you live and learn about, then do better next time.

 

J

[welshpug 1,646]

the main issue is that the inner race always comes out with the flange, sometimes the plastic cage on the bearings break, if they dont and the seal is undamaged i think you have a fair chance of it going back together.

 

never needed to do this however. its just theory!

[petert 578]

Two possibles spring to mind:

 

1. Excessive heat whilst removing inner bearing from hub: The correct procedure is to make a tool that fits under the lip of the inner. I use two pieces of 40x40x5 angle, which have been radiused to match the hub, then relieved on the back face to fit under the inner. They press off easily.

 

2. No support under the bearing inner: After installing the new bearing, did you support under the new bearing inner whilst pressing in the hub? If not, you would have been pressing against the bearing cage, internals, etc., destroying the new bearing.

Edited August 31, 2011 by petert

[kyepan 291]

Two possibles spring to mind:

 

1. Excessive heat whilst removing inner bearing from hub: The correct procedure is to make a tool that fits under the lip of the inner. I use two pieces of 40x40x5 angle, which have been radiused to match the hub, then relieved on the back face to fit under the inner. They press off easily.

 

2. No support under the bearing inner: After installing the new bearing, did you support under the new bearing inner whilst pressing in the hub? If not, you would have been pressing against the bearing cage, internals, etc., destroying the new bearing.

 

sounds like one is the reason, we did support the inner properly, as that was part of the lesson.

 

too much heat, will pull it off properly next time.

 

J

[welshpug 1,646]

never used heat myself, always a cold chisel or an angle grinder.

[kyepan 291]

nods, will do that this time.

[welshpug 1,646]

note, not particularly advisable if you want to try and re-use the bearing, I'd go with Peter's suggestion