Rear Ride Height Checking

[skinner2k3 3]

I have just fitted a replacement rear beam, using new torsion bars aiming for 305mm between centres (21mm Bars sensible ride height).

 

What reference point is most accurate to use to judge level ride height?

 

I didn’t have a dummy shock so fitted the tube and used a trolley jack to adjust and support the arms at the required centre distance once on the car.

 

On the passenger side the top of the tyre is closer to the arch by 3 or 4mm, but if I measure from the bottom of the sill the height is 215mm both sides. A spirit level place on the boot hatch confirms it’s fractionally higher on the driver’s side (bubble still within the central lines).

 

Having bounced the car, jacked it back up and re-checked the shock centres there is approx 2mm difference.

 

I am tempted to leave it as is as I have set the shaft/tube insertion and locked up the TB studs/nuts, plus fitted the ARB.

 

Is it worth the work trying to get it perfect?

 

Thanks

[Tom Fenton 1,540]

You may as well just get it right now. A length of 3/4 x 2" batten wood with two holes drilled in will make an acceptable dummy shock, and will mean you get both sides equal.

[skinner2k3 3]

So the sill height being the same is less critical than the center distances?

 

You are right, may as well get it right first time. Just wasnt sure if it already was right....if you see what I mean

 

Cheers

[Tom Fenton 1,540]

I have never felt the need to measure the sill heights. Set it truly equal with a dummy shock, job done. As I said you can make one with a bit of timber and a drill.

[Anthony 1,002]

Get it bang on otherwise you'll have other issues like ARB pre-load and odd handling where it'll turn one way better than the other.

 

Build it with a dummy shock (bit of wood with holes drilled in is fine if you know the distance needed) so that both sides are the same, and it will sit level. If it doesn't, there's something else amiss - either the ARB is pre-loaded as the endplates aren't level, the front suspension is on the wonk, car isn't sat on level ground, the shell/panel straightness is a bit dubious etc.

 

I'd rather the shock center distances were the same first and foremost, as there's too many variables using the sills really.

[skinner2k3 3]

Fair enough, I will make up a dummy and get it spot on.

 

Cheers Chaps.

[lynmorgan 1]

On my car the torsion bars are in and at the same height but once i connect the ARB it drags the drivers side down a few mm as the end plates arent level, has anyone any ideas on sorting it? Its a 23mm skip brown arb if that has anything to do with it

Edited November 17, 2011 by lynmorgan

[Anthony 1,002]

Either the beam isn't set the same height on both sides, or the ARB is on the piss - the ARB also has different splines at either end, so needs to be rotated around to find where it lines up. If the torsion bars are correct so the height is the same both sides and the ARB end plate lines up, it will all just bolt together and sit level with no nasty preload.