Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
GLPoomobile

Copper Grease Wheel Bolts?

Recommended Posts

GLPoomobile

Copper grease on wheel bolts - yay or nay?

 

I've always greased my bolts, although usually with regular grease. And the reason I'm asking the question now is that I've just had to struggle with the bolts on my Alfa after having the tyres changed. I'd usually blame the garage for whizzing them up too tight on the air gun, but I don't think this is the case this time.

 

Some of the bolts came off fine, and they were still a little moist and greasy (especially the ones I'd had off the day before the tyres were changed). But some of them were an absolute c*nt, requiring serious effort with the breaker bar, and when they eventually gave they went with a CRACK! These ones were all dry and looked like they had dry copper grease in the threads.

 

So now I'm wondering if the copper grease drying out actually makes them more difficult to remove. Opinions?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tom Fenton

I periodically use a small amount on mine yes. But before I slather them in grease I first clean up the threads of corrosion and debris with the wire brush in my bench grinder.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anthony

As per Tom's reply above really, and I've never had any subsequent issues removing wheel bolts :)

 

Indeed, it's rapidly becoming a pet hate people that don't put a little grease on things like wheel bolt threads...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dee205

I always use a little skin of it. It's an anti sieze grease so that's what it's designed for. As Tom says, you should always clean any dirt/rust off first. I find brake cleaner and a fine wire brush does the job.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

I always do, torque wrench every time as well :)

 

 

depends on the quality of the bolts, have experiendced some non pug ones with poor plating that were buggers even though they weren't over tightened when I'd last worked on the vehicle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
GLPoomobile

Perhaps on this occasion then it's just too much dried in crap in the threads, both on the bolts and in the hubs.

 

I'll have to give them a ruddy good clean up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SurGie

I also put some on the alloy where it meets the hub, because the alloy starts to degrade/rust from the steel hub/brake disk. This also can make them stick to the steel disk.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HERMAN

We were told on a torque tightening course at work that if oils or greases are added to a thread that the torque loading will be changed on the threads as this lubricates the parts that torque wrench is working with. There for we have dry torque settings and wet settings. Just be careful that you dont go mad as copper slip will increase the loads on the bolts for the same amount of torque applied.

I belive that copper slip has a bigger effect on this than oil or grease. It is nearly as bad as bolts coated in lanoline.

I will have a look for my notes at work tomorrow.

Neil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Strictly_Derv

I have always done it with copper grease but I did it at my old job at a garage once and I was told never to use it as it can cause bolts to come loose... And I was told at college to always use it prevent seizing.

The garage just told me to use normal grease

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
smithy

I was told at college and work not to use any lube on wheel bolts,just to make sure threads are clean and they are properly torqued.

 

I do use some spray aluminium anti seize on the hub flange due to dissimilar metals causing corrosion,never had any issues removing them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
kyepan

after taking the suspension apart for the second time, everything that could get stuck got copper grease on it, as long as it's torqued correctly it will be fine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SurGie

I have always done it with copper grease but I did it at my old job at a garage once and I was told never to use it as it can cause bolts to come loose... And I was told at college to always use it prevent seizing.

The garage just told me to use normal grease

 

 

Its funny you say that because i used some copper grease fitting my SL 434's on my 6 and a few months later the NS front wheel came off :o They were all torqued up correctly and was quite surprised it happened tbh. I was lucky i was going slow at the time it happened. Now i have to keep checking the bolts in case another set start wanting to go :huh:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Paul_13

Bet you cried when the sl434 come off

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SurGie

Well the alloy got stuck inside the wing and only got scrapped on the inside by the caliper, i would normally go mad but i just saw it as luck, i was about to go onto a bypass and it could have been soo much worse :o

 

Even though the alloy got scrapped inside the steering and wheel balancing was all fine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
GLPoomobile

I'm actually very surprised you didn't know the bolts were working loose. I've had it happen twice (my own fault both times), once on my old Civic and recently on the Alfa, and it was very obvious something was amiss long before it got anywhere near to me losing a wheel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SurGie

When i was going 30 in a 30 the steering wheel suddenly started to get really wobbly and the top mounts need replacing at that time, so i initially thought it was them. However i decided to slow down using the engine by then and was going about 15 mph then it suddenly stopped and skidded when the alloy came off.

 

It makes you think, maybe using the copper grease was the cause of it.

Edited by SurGie

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Paul_13

Or you forgot to tighten the wheel up :P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SurGie

But if that was the cause it would have happened months ago, the alloys have been on for about a year now :unsure:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

someone probably tried to half inch them then.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Paul_13

Me :ph34r:

 

Do you use locking wheel bolts on them... :rolleyes:

Edited by Paul_13

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Rippthrough

We were told on a torque tightening course at work that if oils or greases are added to a thread that the torque loading will be changed on the threads as this lubricates the parts that torque wrench is working with. There for we have dry torque settings and wet settings. Just be careful that you dont go mad as copper slip will increase the loads on the bolts for the same amount of torque applied.

I belive that copper slip has a bigger effect on this than oil or grease. It is nearly as bad as bolts coated in lanoline.

I will have a look for my notes at work tomorrow.

Neil

 

It does, but then so does years of caked on rust and dirt. Less prevailing torque is better as far as hand tightening is concerned, especially when doing it by feel (yes, we shouldn't, we all do though :ph34r: )

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Daviewonder

I also put some on the alloy where it meets the hub, because the alloy starts to degrade/rust from the steel hub/brake disk. This also can make them stick to the steel disk.

 

Doesn't copperslip cause the alloys to oxidize though?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SurGie

someone probably tried to half inch them then.

 

 

Yeah we all thought it could only be that at the time even though its not left on the street, its in a garage but had been left a week before for an hour or so <_<

 

Locking nuts will be bought very soon, i already found a decent set i can get for them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
woodymi16

Just to add my thoughts to the discussion, the torque loading is felt between the the face of the wheel nut and the mating face of the wheel. Apply the lubricant to the threaded parts only and you should not have any problems. If the wheels are old and the paint finish is flaking it is possible that in time the wheel nuts may loose some of the applied torque loading. Also, the nut is made of steel and the wheel is alloy, the mating faces may then suffer from dissimilar metal corrosion. The reality is we all periodically have the wheels off our cars for normal maintenance etc and would therefore see any issues in good time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bobdylan_55

was taught on a motorsport engineering degree level course that copper slip on wheel bolts is a bad idea. Another uni not far from us actually got slatted by imeche iirc for teaching to put copper slip on. Our lecturer always said though that it could cause a wheel bolt to come loose over time and especially in hard driven cars with large vibrations. If the wheel bolts are hard to get in /out, run a tap through the thread to clean it up, and torque it up properly and you wont have any problems

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×