[engine_work] White 205 Gti6 Conversion

[allye 530 3 Cars]

When it eventually actually fires up I think I will go flippin' nuts

 

No you won't, it will be the biggest bum clenching moment of the build you'll be bricking it whilst the head taps like a bag of nails for a couple mins whilst the oil makes its way round!!!

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

^ +1

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

No you won't, it will be the biggest bum clenching moment of the build you'll be bricking it whilst the head taps like a bag of nails for a couple mins whilst the oil makes its way round!!!

 

 

Yeah you are probably right! I had the engine running in it's donor for a while so I know it's a goodun, but yeah I will still be s*itting bricks the first time I turn the key.

 

I had to change the ignition barrell and removed some of the alarm/immobiliser to tidy the wiring, so I may have a nightmare actually getting to turn the key

 

Managed to get a pic stolen off my mates facebook

 

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

good feeling innit, shame its short lived as you gotta sort the manifold out.

 

im in the same boat, i cut and welded it but now the joint bolt part is catching on the gear rod , so im taking it back off the weld it straight to the downpipe (i have a flexi joint further down the downpipe).

 

also had all my wiring back in today and when i turned the key nothing worked, after much head scratching i figured i had forgotten to plug one of the earth blocks under the steering column....all works ok now but still not turned it over.

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

Shoehorned the engine back out to fit the manifold to see what the clearance was like

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now, the angle is'nt far away from meeting the already reangled downpipe. I imagine the person who reangled it must have cut the bulkhead as it meets up fine.

 

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

Looks fine there ^, it's the fact it touches the bulkhead that's the problem

 

 

 

 

 

 

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

View from up top:

 

 

 

 

 

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

Im pleased with the master cylinder clearance! Will shave a bit of the cambelt cover cover neatly to prevent it rubbing.

 

 

I have cut my manifold up ready to be test fitted tomorrow and see how it meets the downpipe. I was expecting the manifold to bend rather than flex and spring back. That way I would have been able to bend as much as is needed, but now it will have to be pulled down so the pipes touch again and then file away until it fits so when I take it to be welded they get it right.

 

 

 

(I've since cut the tabs a bit closer together to aid with movement)

 

I Routed the loom under the expansion tank using the bonnet cable hole and enlarged the grommet.

 

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

Got my manifold back from being welded. Very pleased with it

 

[damien 22 1 Cars]

looking good.

are you going to wrap/paint the exhaust manifold?

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

looking good.

are you going to wrap/paint the exhaust manifold?

 

I was concidering wrapping it, but hopefuly this weekend will be the last time the engine goes in and out for the manifold to be fitted, and as I don't have any heat wrap, I doubt I will be taking the engine out again in a hurry to wrap it.

 

Will see how it gets on.

[allye 530 3 Cars]

don't heat wrap it! That stuff is poo, it just dries up cracks and falls off, even sotries of it catching fire! When I take my engine out again I'll be putting lots of reflective heat stuff on the bulkhead instead.

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

don't heat wrap it! That stuff is poo, it just dries up cracks and falls off, even sotries of it catching fire! When I take my engine out again I'll be putting lots of reflective heat stuff on the bulkhead instead.

 

I'm probably going to use a 306 bulkhead heat shield as I have a few, and kept a bracket back to fit it. Should look nice and neat as well.

[damien 22 1 Cars]

would be intrested if youve got one going spare

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

would be intrested if youve got one going spare

 

I've got a couple spare. They aren't in amazing condition as the lower left corner is close on the 306 to the manifold so can burn through. That part gets chopped off when put on the 205 to go down behind the downpipe heat shield. Will pop some pics up when I have done mine and may cut the others to fit 205's for people.

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

Been busy with this lately and have made some good progress (by my standards!)

 

After taking the engine in and out almost every evening last week and the weekends either side, I am a bit of a dab hand at getting these things in and out

 

To help others and for my reference:

 

I left the subframe on as there really is no need to remove it. I jacked the car up each time, but that was purely to be able to lie underneath and check for clearance and to mate up the downpipe. But you don't need to jack the car up.

 

Angle wise for installation I raised the crane high enough to be able to go in with the gearbox facing the bulkhead. The bumper was left on, and grill and radiator obviously removed. When the sump had cleared the bumper and keeping and eye on the job nearing the bonnet, I turned the engine right and made sure the left corner was as close to the headlight panel as it could be without fouling. Thenit can be lowered and pushed back slightly. When the 'box gets to chassis leg level, you can start to change the angle and keep an eye on the exhaust manifold. The next thing to be aware of is the linkages. I left these on but would be quite easy to damage them if you aren't careful. The diff housing will need to go between the two linkages and when it continues to spin round, the lower rear mount should be more or less in the right position.

 

You have to be careful with the linkages and the lower rear mount. I wouldn't do this job on your own, you need someone to watch either side and the back for clearance constantly, there isn't much room to move it around.

 

Engine mount wise, I found it handy remove the left upper engine mount arm with the 2 allen key bolts and 2 nuts. This gives a lot more room to enable you to push the engine back and line the master cylinder between the cam cover and belt cover. Otherwise you need to go too high to clear it, which makes the gearbox end more difficult to line up.

 

I used a jack under the gearbox to be able to adjust the height of the gearbox (a load leveller would have done the same job) and then when you have a few inches from the top of the 'box to the chassis leg, insert the gearbox mount/battery tray and affix. Then you can lift the jack and engine crane and assist the stud on the gearbox to line up and push through.

 

And finally, make sure everything is clear, out the way and removed fully. While the engine is out, take the time to tidy up and route things which are going to become very difficult to access after.

 

Engine mount nut: 16mm deep socket

GTi6 engine mount arm nuts: 16mm

Gearbox nut: 18mm

Gearbox mount/battery tray: 4X13mm bolts. Lower two need to be put in to place when gearbox is slightly lowered.

 

Note: This is just my way of doing it, there may be better, easier ways to do it. I have quickly jotted this down while it is fresh in my mind as someone is bound to ask me how I did it. And I understand how useful it is to read things like this for guidance.

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

So the engine finally is in for the last time

 

 

 

 

 

 

That's it she's staying in there now

 

Shaved a bit of cam cover off to clear.

 

 

And this is the clearance I was left with after reangling the manifold

 

 

Random photo

 

 

And as she stands now

 

 

 

Dropped my inlet manifold to be bead blasted and powder coated. I did initially intend to paint this with the same high temp paint I had done the cam covers etc in, but realised that it would get 'fingered' being put in, and being such a prominent part in the bay I think it would show marks and get grubbby too easily and look nasty quite quickly.

 

Went for the colour on the left

 

 

Unfortunately they are snowed under with work, and probably won't be able to sort it for me this week, so I won't be able to turn the key until that comes back and the fuel rail is put on. Gives me the week to relax a bit and sort the interior out. I have the dash out still from when I took the loom and everything out.

[damien 22 1 Cars]

your flying.....

 

im just waiting on the lower fork engine mount then i can get mine back in and wiring/pluming it in.

 

are you not going for PAS?

 

why are you using the brown plug on the thurmostat housing? thats normaly used for a/c

 

hope i dont have to trim my cam cover that much....

[allye 530 3 Cars]

have you lowered the rad at all?

 

Your flying through this conversion. are you going to plasticare the bumpers etc?

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

your flying.....

 

im just waiting on the lower fork engine mount then i can get mine back in and wiring/pluming it in.

 

are you not going for PAS?

 

why are you using the brown plug on the thurmostat housing? thats normaly used for a/c

 

hope i dont have to trim my cam cover that much....

 

I thought I was taking an age personally. Probably because I spent weeks faffing with cleaning and painting everything when I should have been cracking on with the mechanicals and getting it out in the better weather.

 

Not going for PAS no. If the car came with it I would of left it, but will see how I get on with it. I have some PAS parts to go on it though if I feel the need for it.

 

I just plugged it in rather than leaving it dangling. Didn't think it would do any harm being plugged in, does it?

 

That was minimal cutting of the cambelt cover. I did it so that it was within the area of the master cylinder and no more. It can move within, but haven't taken anything else away that wasn't needed so to keep as much protection for the belt as possible.

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

have you lowered the rad at all?

 

Your flying through this conversion. are you going to plasticare the bumpers etc?

 

Rad is in it's standard position. From reading others conversions it isn't strictly necessary.

 

Did you find you needed to lower it for clearance for the inlet?

 

I know I will have to chop the slam panel a bit.

 

Yeah the exterior hasn't been touched hardly at all yet. I have a few things I want to do to the outside, but that can wait until it's running to keep me busy. Bumpers will be plasticared black, ph2 rear lights to go on, new clips on the bumpers and strips, paint all the wiper arms and recover the door pillars with vinyl to freshen those up.

 

Then I will probably focus on the interior. Although that is pretty much all up together.

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

I like the extra value headlights

Nice welding on the manifold

 

You should ne able to just bend the bit of the slam panel out the way

Edited October 12, 2011 by Paul_13

[SurGie 54]

I'm probably going to use a 306 bulkhead heat shield as I have a few, and kept a bracket back to fit it. Should look nice and neat as well.

 

Good work so far

 

 

Good idea on the heat shield, thats what iv used myself. Try THIS place, it may be a bit expensive but its quality stuff and keeps the engine bay cooler.

 

I would have sorted the manifold first, its hard fitting it when engine is fitted rather than putting engine in with it attached.

 

Wish i had a sand blaster like yours, would have saved me loads of hours getting rid of every little bit of rust on my project by hand

 

Have you fitted any BBM Gp N engine mounts ?

Edited October 12, 2011 by SurGie

[allye 530 3 Cars]

I was one of the unlucky ones then! I could never of got away with the standard position. Just have to wait and see I suppose, its not hard to move it though.

 

With regards to dying the bumpers black, from experience with a couple of my cheap run-abouts trying to dye phase 1.5 platics black never goes too well, it doesn't take to well and look quite blotchy. I would say stick to the grey plasticare! Also phase 1.5 lights are retro cool!!! I'v considered changing from phase 2 to them!

[damien 22 1 Cars]

hard to see from your pics but have you heat wrapped your clutch/speedo cables?