End Plate Clearnace

[skinner2k3 3]

A question for the beam experts........

 

How crucial is the 4mm ARB end plate to radius arm clearance dimension prescribed by the Haynes manual?

 

I ask as I will be welding up a 106 24mm ARB on one end and the closer the two plates are the more spline engagement I can have on the removable end.

 

Can the clearnace be reduced?

 

Thanks

 

Ben

[skinner2k3 3]

Clearnace.....doh!

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

There's a seal that goes inbetween the arb plate and trailing arm, so probably accounts for that.

[welshpug 1,655]

4mm?! its 1mm total, 0.5mm per side.

[Cameron 16]

Can't be that crucial as I always whacked them on as far as they go!

 

Why does it even matter?

[SurGie 54]

There's a seal that goes in-between the arb plate and trailing arm, so probably accounts for that.

 

 

Do you mean the yellow/cream coloured fabric type one ?

 

There are 2 seals, one that goes on the end plate and is black rubber type. The other goes on the shaft ends when shaft is inside the arm, its an O ring type. I think that is the main cause of water getting into the beams in the first place tbh.

[tri_longer 25]

Does anyone know if you can use a large o ring instead of the standard seal at all?

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Do you mean the yellow/cream coloured fabric type one ?

 

That was the one I ment, you can find them in plumbers seal sets from hardware stores. Used in unions on pumps etc.

 

Does anyone know if you can use a large o ring instead of the standard seal at all?

 

I would like to know this aswell, would give a better seal in my opinion

[SurGie 54]

It would be good to have a rubber type with added grease, instead of the fabric type.

 

I have thought of trying to replace one for a rubber type but not got round to find one suitable. It would have to be sticking out a notch so it gets squashed in to seal.

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

I would like to know this aswell, would give a better seal in my opinion

 

I don't agree as standard, as the o ring would probably over time and suspension cycles push the end plate tension off so it would no longer be sealing. It could be made to work by using a countersunk bolt to hold the arb end plate tight onto the trailing arm. An o-ring is only any good when held compressed.

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

I don't agree as standard, as the o ring would probably over time and suspension cycles push the end plate tension off so it would no longer be sealing. It could be made to work by using a countersunk bolt to hold the arb end plate tight onto the trailing arm. An o-ring is only any good when held compressed.

 

A flat rubber oring would be the best to use IMO not a normal one. I can't see a small bit of rubber pushing something off which is hammered into place.

Edited July 11, 2011 by Paul_13

[Anthony 1,002]

Why reinvent the wheel though?

 

The standard OE foam seal is cheap, readily available and is proven to do the job providing that it's fitted correctly.

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Because I want a square wheel.

They leak because of age not a faulty design.

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Because I want a square wheel.

They leak because of age not a faulty design.

[skinner2k3 3]

Thats good then, should gain back some of the 8mm of spline engagement I lost!

 

I did think it looked at bit odd, but I put my trust in Haynes! If anyone has a manual to hand can they check it does say 4mm each side and that I am not going mad?

 

Cheers

[skinner2k3 3]

The foam seal is 5174 03 yes?

[philfingers 5]

std seal and plenty of grease in there too, it's fine