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damien

205 Gti6 To Gti6 Conversion Help

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pugpete1108

i didnt think about cam belt, i had the same squeal when i did the 306 tu engine and the belt was too tight and the tensioner was squealing.

 

good call

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chipstick

To be fair I would have done it regardless for piece of mind after 20k (whether that was on a reciept or verbal) and it would have been easier to access when out of the car.

 

Whip the cover off and see what the belt looks like condition wise.

 

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Miles

Where did the engine come from? but as said the belt needs checking but if your not sure get some help

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welshpug

not having the alternator will not help either, explains why its struggling to run properly.

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damien

Where did the engine come from? but as said the belt needs checking but if your not sure get some help

 

its this engine - http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=130737&st=0&p=1176293&&do=findComment&comment=1176293

 

looking over the cambelt is abit pass my DIY skills, i think its best if i wait till pete pops over and has a nose for me

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damien

not having the alternator will not help either, explains why its struggling to run properly.

 

i thought that would of been the lambda (or lack of)

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allye

I really feel for you Damien, I know just how much hard work is involved in doing this by yourself for the first time!

 

I can only urge you to plod on, you could have that engine swapped in 1-2 days, it really is worth it and they are amazing fun.

 

RE the cambelt, its a very DIY'er friendly job, there are good guides on how to do it and how tight to set it, if you can manage a conversion a cambelt is a piece of piss for you mate.

 

crack on son! :D

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pugpete1108

youre running with no alternator and no lambda??

 

best get that sorted out first mate.

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damien

will pick up a aux belt today, halfords where out of stock last week and park co wanted £27 for one.

 

i would of thought the lambda wouldnt make it knock/tap just run abit lumppy

 

will update later today

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chipstick

Are you running PAS?

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Miles

Running no Lambda is fine, It makes no difference to the engine noise

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pugpete1108

But surely diagnosing an engine noise while it's running lumpy is much more difficult?

 

How much are the belts from ecp? I can pick one up on the way if they are cheaper

 

 

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welshpug

standard 205 alternator belt is £5.40 from GSF.

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chipstick

I had a nosey through Damien's posts and I think he is running a 306 rallye AUX set up.

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CaptainK

Damien, I'm sorry to hear you're having problems with this engine after all this time of build your GTi6. :( Hope you can get it all sorted quickly though, as 205s with GTi6 engines in them are very fun to drive :D

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damien

as above im running pas on the 306 rallye setup. we to halfords again and they only have the gti6 belts no rallye one.

pete if you could pick me one up that would be great and i can give you the pennys when you pop over.

 

right...

 

took the cam cover off and everything looked ok to me even if i didnt know what i was looking for.

 

dscf4721.th.jpg

dscf4722k.th.jpg

 

 

i did notice on the cam cover that the 2 10mm nuts that hold it on where missing, i just replaced them.

also on the bottom of the cam cover there had been some rubbing, it mite of been from the old aux which was falling apart.

 

dscf4723c.th.jpg

 

i "borrowed" the aux belt and lambda off the estate just to run the engine again. -

 

 

the knocking seems to of passed but the rubbing and tapping are still there. (god i look like a prat!!!!)

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pugpete1108

So it needs to be a rallye one not a gti6 one? Whats the diff? No aircon?

 

Anyone know the length?

 

The belts probably ok. my guess is they haven't changed the tensioner and the timing belt is too tight making it whine.

 

Sounds alot better in the last vid tho.

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Anthony

The "Rallye" setup is PAS+alternator without AC. It's actually used on various other PSA models, not just 306 Rallyes.

 

The belt you need for that setup is a 6PK1163 (give or take a few millimeters, so 6PK1160 or 6PK1165 will be fine)

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chipstick

The auto tensioner will take up the difference if you get either.

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welshpug

what auto tensioner? :lol:

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Anthony

Non-AC (Rallye) setup uses a manual tensioner - the auto tensioner is for A/C models (eg GTi-6) **

 

That said though, yes, the adjustment on the tensioner will be fine to take up a few mm difference in belt length.

 

(** - the exception to this is the Lynx PAS relocation / AC delete kit, that I believe retains the auto-tensioner from the AC models)

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damien

what he said ^^^^

 

it needs to be a rallye/2.0 16v non aircon one.

 

i'll wait for you to come over pete before i do anything else, best to let somone that knows what they are doing have a look than have me hit it with a big hammer :D

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damien

the car has'nt changed since the last update due to ill heath, lack of intrest and funds. its just been sitting in a damp garage rotting away.....

 

i have been starting/letting her idle every few months just to keep the oil/fuel going round the engine.

 

i am planning on getting back on with her in the next few weeks, unfortunately letting her sit in a damp garage for 4 years untouched has taken its toll on the body/internal/wiring and mechanics.

 

undate to come.....

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Silky

That's a shame Damo, hope your health is getting better, be good to see the Topaz back out on the road

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damien
Time for an update


its been some time since I have been anywhere near the 205, close to 4 years if you want to count.


Lets start with the bodywork,

Where its been in the garage anything and everything has been put on and around the 205 so over the years a number of dents and scratches have appear all over but the worse being on the drivers wing is a number of scratches and the drivers door has some dents which look a lot like car park dents, also the black trim has faded as well as some deep scratches along the passenger door trim. Just to top it off on the boot there was a little bit of rust (the size of a 5p) bubbling by the window, this has grown all along the bottom of the window and has eaten a lot of the paint away.


On the inside,

Mould mould everywhere, the seat belts, the dash, steering wheel and the carpet. The leather seats are cracked and seems to be very flaky. Also the dash seems to of faded and cracked in places.


Wheels/brakes/suspension,

the tyres are cracking in places, the lacquer on the wheels has flaked, I removed one of the back wheels, one of the wheel nut head snapped, the rear beam is rock hard and covered in rust, also the rear brakes are shot, I haven’t had a look at the front brakes but I can tell from the state of the rear ones that the fronts will need rebuilding/replacing.


The front/engine

The front bumper mounts have turned to dust as well as the surrounding on the spot lights, the fuel pipes and pas pipes have started to crack, a lot of the nuts/bolts have rusted up, the earth/positive cables for the battery have also taken a beating because of the cold/damp. Just to top it off the paint on the inlet and head has flaked off but to my surprise the paint on the block/ gearbox and engine bay still looks good.

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