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damien

205 Gti6 To Gti6 Conversion Help

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chipstick

If you space the pedal box assembly out by just a tad it will lean it up a fair bit. From the pic it is more so touching where the lines branch off. The spacing will lift that away and then the bottom of the master cylinder itself should be enough away?

 

I don't see a great problem with cutting a bit of the belt cover away. You won't need to go mad on it. You are unlikely to get anything drop down in there IMO. It won't be open to the elements and the pulley is a fair way inside.

 

There is a fair bit of material on the cylinder itself to allow you to shave some off if you want to go down that route. You ultimately don't want to remove any more metal than you need to. At least with the belt cover you can remove a fair bit to gain lots of clearance and still have decent protection.

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Anthony

As said, that won't be enough clearance - you really want a few millimetres minimum, as the engine moves left and right a surprising amount under hard cornering.

 

It's frustrating not seeming to make much progress, but take your time and get it right - if there's not enough clearance you'll get horrible vibration through the pedals and shell that will (if you're anything like me) drive you up the wall. I've driven a few Mi16 and GTi-6 conversions that have had insufficient MC clearance and it's terrible, the whole shell and interior buzzing and vibrating whenever you turn a corner because the owner didn't spend a little more time doing it properly in the first place - and once the engine is in and running, it's much harder to address.

 

Judging by your pictures and how much it improved clearance on my car, I would say that moving the whole pedal box (inc servo and MC) up and across will gain you enough clearance that it'll all fit nicely without having to cut the belt cover. It's a bit of work to do as you'll have to have the engine back out again in order to remove the pedal box, but I considered that a better way of doing things than cutting the belt cover or adding spacers to tilt the pedal box. Worth slotting the engine mount arm a little too, as there's an easy few millimetres clearance to be gained doing that and like Tesco's say, every little helps.

 

Keep at it - it'll be worth it in the end :)

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damien

is there a thread somewhere about moving the pedal box?

 

as said before cutting the cam cover isnt a option and i dont like the idea of trimming the m/c so spacing or moving the pedal box seems like a safer option.

im just so suprised on how much extra work there is in replacing a engine like for like and making it look tidy at the same time

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damien

right, ive spaced out the pedal box which was a pig to do as i went in blind with no help from any posts on the forum or the haynes manual.

 

i got a pack of 10 0.5mm spacers, 5 of which went on the lowest bolt, 3 went on the lowest bolt closest the drivers side and the last 2 went on the lowest passinger side.

i know it dont sound like much, 2mm up and 1.5mm to the right but it has helpped alot

 

dscf4576e.th.jpg

 

dscf4573p.th.jpg

 

im now bored with playing with the m/c clearance so its staying like that now.

 

done some trimming of the slam panel too

 

ive got a feeling that i will need to trim some more for the PAS pipes but we will see when the time comes.

 

dscf4574i.th.jpg

 

dscf4575p.th.jpg

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Miles

You can turn the top feed pipe for the main filler for the pump if your using the 306 bottle on the inner wing instead of having something mounted floating around on a bracket

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damien

didnt know that, thanks miles.

 

silly question but why doesnt everyone do that? ive seen afew people using the 306 bottle but not twist the top feed.

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Miles

I guess not many people know about it, Until now :lol: , it does feel like it might snap off but with a little heat and a large punch they twist fine

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layton1985

Sorry to jump in but I was searching the forum for moving the brake servo to the other side of the engine for clearence purposes, is there a thread about this all ready as I have seen some done but know one describes what they used or what mods were involved,

 

as far as I aware there are mounting for a servo on the right hand side and I can use the servo from a 106, 206, 307, BUT what size m/c do I use will this affect the feel of the brakes? also do I need to cut and weld at the pedal box plate on the left side of the engine bay that the original servo sat on?

 

I would use hydro clutch aswell whilst I'm at it if it comes with the option?

 

Thanks guys in advance

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welshpug

there really isn't any need to go that far, small simple mods will give enough clearance.

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chipstick

As above. With solid mounts and minimal trimming, there can be enough room created to not need to worry.

 

Your best bet is to really test fit the engine on the mounts and see how much you need to remove.

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damien

A bit of an update....

Over the last few months i've not been too well, in and out of dr / hosiptal a lot, im now listed as unfit to work so progress has been very slow.

Not much in the way of pics but what I have done the last few months

Engine is bolted in

M/c clearance is sorted

Exhaust manifold in bolted in but seems very close to the gear linkage, will have to look into that once it’s up and running

Gear linkage is fitted

Clutch cable heat wrapped and fitted

Reused to 205 Speedo cable, heat wrapped and refitted

Throttle cable is fitted, just reused the old one

Wiring loom, I was looking forward to this.

I downloaded a lot of pics and guilds off the forum so I could work on it on and off.

Got the 205 loom labelled up without and problems but did have to trim back some of the cable as it was damaged.

The gti6 loom was next, cut the fuel cut off and soldered it together

Cut the smaller round plug, soldered/tidied the cable away.

Cut the big plug and started labelling the cable up, I found a lot of the colours didn’t match i.e. whites where grey, yellows where white etc... But all the numbers where there it just took time to find/read them.

Soldered the 2 looms together, gave it a few wraps of head wrap and ran it using the old hole up to the scuttle panel, then behind the expansion bottle, then between the battery/wing.

Got all the plugs in and sensors sorted thanks to pugpete

Sorted all the earths/lives out

All the pas is plumed in ready

All that left is the fuelines, rad/water pipes, fit the driveshaft and fill all the liquids up

14801092.th.jpg

 

39123161.th.jpg

 

24056880.th.jpg

 

69444467.th.jpg

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pugpete1108

You gonna have it ready for pugfest?

 

Not sure if mine will make it in time tbh

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dcc

Thats looking to be a very tidy conversion mate!

 

I can't wait to get my new shell home and get a start on it! bloody thing is itching for me to spend some time fixing it but I just can't afford to at the moment :(

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damien

You gonna have it ready for pugfest?

 

Not sure if mine will make it in time tbh

 

im not planning on going, i know the ex will be there and i dont want another seen like last time...

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damien

not going into too much detail on a open forum but the last pugfest i went to she was there with another club and words/comments where made.

anyway no more of that

 

 

 

im aiming to get her turning over by next weekend and have her running by the end of the month, as for on the road thats another topic

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damien

she is alive -

 

still got alot of work to do tho

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pugpete1108

Woo hoo :)

 

You still got your old engine?

 

 

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damien

yeah its on the garage floor as a bare block/head, i tool the aux's and manifolds off.

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damien

shes a bloody tapper!!!

 

im so pissed right now words cant decribe how im feeling

 

 

Edited by damien

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Anthony

You have left it to run for sufficient time for the hydraulic tappets to sort themselves out, haven't you? They'll typically make a fair amount of tapping/ticking on first start after having been sat for a long period of time and will usually take a few minutes to quieten down.

 

Real pisser if it is a tapper after all the work you've put in :(

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damien

i left her running for abit 20mins till she was up to temp as i was bleeding the system.

the tapping just got louder the longer i left the engine running

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damien

updated the video clip

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pugpete1108

I thought you bought it off here as a good known engine??

 

Bit naughty if it's not

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