205 Gti6 To Gti6 Conversion Help

[damien 22 1 Cars]

im going to try and remove my current gti6 lump and replace it with a standard one but ive never tryed anything like this before, im in no rush to get it done so im planning on taking my time and getting it right.

 

as ive got a gti6 engine already in the car most of the hard work has been done (exhaust manifold etc.) my problem is i dont know where to start? ive got the replacement engine on my garage floor and ive removed to battery from the 205, whats next? get the car in the air and remove the driveshafts? remove the inlet and wiring loom?

any help would be great.

[monkee87 2]

Youve pretty much got it.

Shafts first. Inlet and wiring next. Water hoses etc etc. It's not as hard as it seems.

[Anthony 1,003]

Obvious question is do you have an engine crane and all the required tools (although it's mostly just sockets and spanners)? If not, worth sorting that out before hand as there's nothing worse in my opinion than getting half way through a job and not being able to do anything because you don't have the required bits, leaving an unusable car in pieces on the drive.

 

Also, if you're doing the job in front of the garage door, make sure that you can shut the garage down, and that there's sufficient clearance to use the engine crane!

 

With regards actually removing the engine, the rough order I tend to do things is:

 

• Crack off the hubnuts
  
• Jack the car up, place securely on axle stands on the two sill jacking points
  
• Remove the battery and (if fitted) battery box
  
• Drain the fluids - coolant, engine and gearbox oil, and PAS if fitted (if you're splitting the system)
  
• Remove the radiator and fan cowling
  
• Seperate hubs from wishbones and remove the driveshafts
  
• Disconnect the clutch cable, gear linkages and speedo drive from the gearbox
  
• Remove intake pipework/filters
  
• Disconnect the accelerator cable
  
• Disconnect the PAS pipes (if fitted)
  
• Disconnect remaining coolant pipes
  
• Seperate exhaust - probably manifold from the head is easiest on a GTi-6, but normally I do manifold-downpipe
  
• Wiring loom - depending how you've done it, it might be easier unplugging the loom from the engine, or removing the loom from the car and taking it out with the engine
  
• Disconnect the fuel pipes from the engine
  
• With the engine on the crane, remove the lower engine mount bolt, and then the two nuts on the upper and gearbox mounts
  
• Lower the engine down a little and remove the battery tray (four bolts total)
  
• Tilt (gearbox end down) and twist the engine (alternator towards you) and lift the engine out of the top

Refitting is the reverse of removal (ha!).

 

I'm sure there's a couple of bits that I've forgotten, but that method and order works fine for me. Others may have their own ways of doing things, but it's obvious enough as you go through what needs to come out and what the best way of doing certain things is on your particular car/installation. 205's are for the most part simple enough to remove/refit engines in, especially if like in your case it's a straight swap rather than having to convert and make things fit along the way.

 

Worth thinking about whether there's anything you want to do whilst the engine is out, as some jobs are far easier without the engine in! Also, make sure you do the belt/tensioners/waterpump prior to installing the engine, together with clutch and any suspect oil or sump seals/gaskets as it's much easier than once it's in the car.

 

Good luck!

[damien 22 1 Cars]

just what i was after Anthony many thanks,

 

ive got the new engine on the crane resting on the floor, as i said before im in no rush so i'll be doing the odd bits on my days off.

ive got loads of room in the garage as well as space in the "dumping ground" aka my workshop.

 

i am planning on giving the engine/engine bay a bloody good cleaning, also a general tidy up.

ive been looking over the project forum for ideas like the 306 pas reservoir, smaller rad, relocating washer bottle behind the spot lights, smaller expansion tank, braded fuel lines, 306 battery box. like i said just a tidy up

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

start taking all the little bits off and draining all the fluids.

 

as anthony said make sure before you jack the car up to undo the hub nuts as they are a pain to do in the air. also when you unplug anything put a bit of paper tape on it and label where it has come from, given yours is on standalone ecu this would be very wise

 

let me know when you are free (will need to be a weekend now) and i'll come give you a hand

 

i have my hands full doing mine but i said i would help and i will

 

you got my number, drop me a text or call anytime mate

[Henry 1.9GTi 36]

if you want to leave the driveshafts attached to the hub you can undo the wishbone ball joint and track rods and the driveshafts should come out without removing them from the hubs. Thats how i did my engine swap anyway. Unless ive missed something and the shafts have to be removed for some reason?

[Anthony 1,003]

if you want to leave the driveshafts attached to the hub you can undo the wishbone ball joint and track rods and the driveshafts should come out without removing them from the hubs. Thats how i did my engine swap anyway. Unless ive missed something and the shafts have to be removed for some reason?

Whilst you can pull the passenger shaft clear that way, you can't pull the drivers side out from the lower engine mount - so you'd either have to remove the engine mount from the block, or split the driveshaft at the inner CV. Not only that, but I'd rather have them removed and out of the way, as then that's one less thing that's in the engine bay likely to get in the way when you remove or refit the engine, plus atleast if they're safely out of the way you're unlikely to pull the CV's out accidentally or similar.

[damien 22 1 Cars]

right, front wheels are off as well as the hub nuts which are a right sod to undo, i bent a brakers bar so i had to use some old exhaust and had sarah pushing the brake peddle down.

 

that will do for now, will remove the fluids tomorrow.

can coolant go down the drain or does it have to go down the local tip like oil?

 

some pics

 

the new engine -

 

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/1964/dscf4361j.jpg

 

the old girl with the nuts off and in the air -

 

http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/2844/dscf4360t.jpg

Edited May 27, 2011 by damien

[Masekwm 2]

Coolant can go down a toilet but not a storm drain

[Anthony 1,003]

Alternatively, if your neighbours cat keeps s**ting in your garden, just leave it out in a dish for it to drink. The cat will cease to s**t in the garden shortly thereafter

 

(I am of course joking before I'm lynched, but on a more serious note, don't leave it out unattended as animals are attracted by the sweet smell/taste and it is extremely harmful)

[damien 22 1 Cars]

no problem with cats, ive got a black lab and a jack-a-doodle.

 

down the loo the coolant goes

[damien 22 1 Cars]

afternoon,

ive done the fluids,removed the rad/fan/grill/slam pannel, removed the driveshafts (which was a pig to do), removed the coolant pipes and removed the PAS pipes/tank.

i decided to remove thwasher bottle and found a patch of rust so i gave it a poke which ended up turning into a bloody hole (see pics) what are my options?

i did think about some filler/filbre glass but thats abit of a cowboy job (which i am) another option which ive seen from other threads is welding a plate. now ive got a welder but ive never used it and i dont want to risk messing it up. do i have any other options?

 

 

 

Edited May 28, 2011 by damien

[james_pug 26 1 Cars]

Good to see you e started sorting it Damien, everyone has there own ways of taking engines out I'll always disconnect and remove everything I can before jacking it up but you've got past that now anyway. The rot needs cutting out and a new bit needs welding in alot of them seem to go there. If you need a hand let me no and I can come down as with Pete though it'll have to be a weekend.

[harryskid 193]

Best time to get the welding done with the motor out, give the bay a good clean an paint up too

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

i'll pop down with the welder if ya like mate?

 

should be easy enough to patch it up seeing as its behind the washer bottle you wont see it anyway

[damien 22 1 Cars]

that would be great if you could pop down pete.

im relocating the washer bottle to behind the driving lights like on the 306 so im going to have to spray up the rusted area after its be welded up.

 

im back at work today so i wont be doing anything until wed/thur when im next off.

on them days im planning on removing the clutch cable/linkage/accelerator cable and the exhaust

[damien 22 1 Cars]

bit of a update

 

removed the rest of coolent pipes, removed the kms loom (which is a right mess), removed my hid lights loom, removed the clutch, removed the fuel lines and the exhaust (well undone it at the downpipe as i couldnt reach the manifold bolts)

 

i beleave that everything is disconected now and the engine is ready to come out, will give it a go tomorrow.

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

just go slow and steady mate, you will need to tilt the engine (gearbox down) to get it out.

 

remove the battery tray (if you havent already) for more space.

 

and i would remove the lower engine mount fork completely before lifting so you dont bend it.

 

speedo cable done?

sump connectors (oil temp) done?

gear linkages done?

[damien 22 1 Cars]

done the gearlinkage, i know theres 3 linkages but i only have to unplug 2, is this right?

 

done the oil temp

 

i couldnt get to the speedo drive, i didnt want pull it too much in case i broke it

 

i didnt know the battery tray could be removed, i cant see any bolts holding it on

 

ive left the front bumper on, is this ok?

 

 

 

 

[Masekwm 2]

Battery tray is two bolts from above and two hiding underneath. I found it goes very close to the bumper so have some old towel or something to protect it, same with the engine bay with the alternator pulley.

 

2 gear linkages is correct, the 3rd runs under the car to the stick.

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

dont forget to support the gearbox end when you remove the battery tray as you need to remove the gearbox mount first then lower the box a little to get to the lower tray bolts (not nescessary but easier).

 

i just thought though, are you sure the rattle hasnt come about because of the mahoosive hole in the filter sock pulling in a stone or something?

 

seems quite likely.

 

with regards to the speedo cable, just wiggle/pull the rubber pin out and the cable will just pullout easy. dont use pliers though as it will propably snap the pin.

[damien 22 1 Cars]

 

i just thought though, are you sure the rattle hasnt come about because of the mahoosive hole in the filter sock pulling in a stone or something?

 

seems quite likely.

 

 

 

maybe but abit late now, she was always making holes in the filters and always in the same place, thats the 4th filter since the engine was converted to throttle bodies

 

 

didnt know anything about a rubber pin, could be why it wouldnt come off.

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

maybe but abit late now, she was always making holes in the filters and always in the same place, thats the 4th filter since the engine was converted to throttle bodies

 

 

didnt know anything about a rubber pin, could be why it wouldnt come off.

 

a bit late fo this engine yes but not for the new one

 

yeah there is a stupid rubber pin that goes through the housing crossways, this stops the cable from being pulled out.

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

If the rubber pin's broke I got one spare

[damien 22 1 Cars]

and she is out

 

 

abit of advice for anyone trying it, make sure you have unplugged/removed everything. i forgot about the metal hose along the side of the block, lucky i noticed when slowly lifting the engine.

remove the gearlinkage, dont just disconnect them, ive now bent one from tilting the engine.

compleatly remove the exhaust manifold if you can, i undone it at the downpipe but it was still in the way.

im sure removing the front bumper would make life easier too.

i removed the lower fork from the sub frame as pete said but found the lower mount wouldnt freely move so i removed it from the mount too which made it easier.

 

i found the little rubber clip holding the speedo cable in, not sure on how you would find it tho with the engine in its normal place.

 

 

i will post up when i start refitting the replacment engine