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johnaldridge101

Cast Mi Using Diesel Crank?

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johnaldridge101

i have a cast iron mi16 engine out of a citroen zx and im building a hillclimb 205 so going forged pistons, ITB's, aggresive cams, fancy exhaust, then my moms pug 806 TD snaped the cam, so i whiped the engine out and swapped it with a 405 TD engine, so now i have a derv crank + rods laying idle.

 

can some one tell me if the crank + rods will fit? im 99% sure the crank will its the rods im unsure of

 

are the rods forged? again im 90% certain they are

 

depending on measurements of throw and deck clearances/protrusions ill have pistons made to suit, more than likely by accralite

 

will be boring the block to remove the wear lip caused by the rings.

 

thanks guys,

 

p.s i have used the search, but im no whizz kid.

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johnaldridge101

ok so today i have discovered that the "forged" cranks arent actually forged! but any how ill be going for the steel crank and diesel rods, the rods are shorter but a little chunkier, the loss of length will help me over come the valve/piston clearance issues, but i still need custom pistons making up, this is going to expensive!!

 

anybody have any concerns?

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No Guts No Glory

Wisco Pistons do over sized forged pistons @ 84.5mm , I use them in customers cars with awesome results

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welshpug

I'd use the petrol rods myself, the diesel ones use a massive heavy gudgeon pin.

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johnaldridge101

very true

 

derv = 1,051 g

 

petrol = 891 g

 

but the derv ones look a little stronger although the petrol ones have been plated

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petert

Sounds like a bodge to me if you're using shorter con rods to solve a valve-piston clearance issue. Your CR will drop too much! Diesel rods are way too heavy. It will never rev. The standard rods are fine for 7500 and they're full floating. Order this piston from Wiseco in 86.50mm: CA-10686-7080. The pockets are deep enough for performance cams without sacrificing compression ratio. Either fit an 88mm crank or deck the block 1mm and use an 86mm crank.

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No Guts No Glory

Order this piston from Wiseco in 86.50mm: CA-10686-7080. The pockets are deep enough for performance cams without sacrificing compression ratio.

 

Sorry thats what I ment 86.50mm, thanks Peter

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johnaldridge101

Sounds like a bodge to me if you're using shorter con rods to solve a valve-piston clearance issue. Your CR will drop too much! Diesel rods are way too heavy. It will never rev. The standard rods are fine for 7500 and they're full floating. Order this piston from Wiseco in 86.50mm: CA-10686-7080. The pockets are deep enough for performance cams without sacrificing compression ratio. Either fit an 88mm crank or deck the block 1mm and use an 86mm crank.

 

no not a bodge, hence the custom pistons, in effect i would of used "taller" pistons to up the CR and still of been able to run deep valve cut outs. but looking over my class rules i think ill have to stick with the petrol crank + rods to keep the 1997cc's displacement

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petert

no not a bodge, hence the custom pistons, in effect i would of used "taller" pistons to up the CR and still of been able to run deep valve cut outs. but looking over my class rules i think ill have to stick with the petrol crank + rods to keep the 1997cc's displacement

 

Yes, but why would you use a rod that weighs 1Kg? According to my scales, an XU10J4 rod weighs 740g and a H beam equivalent weighs 616g. You can buy H beam rods really cheap now. There are plenty of "Chinese" rods around. You can have what ever name you want etched into them. eg Wosner

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johnaldridge101

Yes, but why would you use a rod that weighs 1Kg? According to my scales, an XU10J4 rod weighs 740g and a H beam equivalent weighs 616g. You can buy H beam rods really cheap now. There are plenty of "Chinese" rods around. You can have what ever name you want etched into them. eg Wosner

 

After weighing the rods i decided to use petrol ones. Thats a good idea ill risk all the time, effort, expence invested in building the engine on some £100 japatty industries rods, every one knows about stretch bolts but stretch rods, now thats a new one, garanteed higher compression shortly followed by a 5th cylinder protruding from the side of the block.

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petert

After weighing the rods i decided to use petrol ones. Thats a good idea ill risk all the time, effort, expence invested in building the engine on some £100 japatty industries rods, every one knows about stretch bolts but stretch rods, now thats a new one, garanteed higher compression shortly followed by a 5th cylinder protruding from the side of the block.

 

You're a wally. You've taken the point too far. For example, this company in Melbourne buys blanks from USA and machines them to what ever spec. you want. They really are very cheap, and considering they come with a set of ARP bolts, how could you go past them? Their XU10J4 rods are 550g.

 

http://www.pureperformancemotorsport.com/shop/

Edited by petert

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johnaldridge101

You're a wally. You've taken the point too far. For example, this company in Melbourne buys blanks from USA and machines them to what ever spec. you want. They really are very cheap, and considering they come with a set of ARP bolts, how could you go past them? Their XU10J4 rods are 550g.

 

http://www.pureperformancemotorsport.com/shop/

 

 

i didnt know that was a serious reply, having a company etch another company's name into a product made me very wary unless you were taking the pee?. aside from the huge lawsuit it sounds just a tad dodgy to me. i looked through the site and it all looks and sounds good, although a set of rods for my renault 5 costs exactly the same as mi16 items and there is a fair size difference.

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B1ack_Mi16

That's almost how everyone does it, lots of rods just looks 100% identical, but with different brand names on them.

Often referred to as cheap china rods. This doesn't mean they're not good quality, and would in all cases outperform standard rods I would believe.

 

I went for Pauter rods for my new T16 engine though, as I had to get custom ones made anyway.

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johnaldridge101

That's almost how everyone does it, lots of rods just looks 100% identical, but with different brand names on them.

Often referred to as cheap china rods. This doesn't mean they're not good quality, and would in all cases outperform standard rods I would believe.

 

I went for Pauter rods for my new T16 engine though, as I had to get custom ones made anyway.

 

those pauter rods look good, an interesting idea on windage issues. do they have an oil way from big eng to little end bearing? as the centre of the rod is big enough to have one. im interested in mailing peterts' link pureperformance (who are on ebay selling cheaper than there website) and getting a set for my renault and mi16 and finding out if they can accomadate the big to little end oil way

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