Best Rust Treatment

[custard-rallye 25]

hi im in the middle of taking my engine out for getting my engine bay painted and have found quite alot of rust near the passenger light. what is the best way to go about it? i was planning on using a wire brush attachment then kurust or a rust treatment of a sort then red oxide primer would that be right enough or any better ways??

[SurGie 54]

The best rust treatment ever is to get rid of every last bit of it then re-prime. If you have some placers that are too hard to get rid of the rust via a drill/grinder wire brush then i recommend either Granville rust treatment or Bilt Hamber's Hydrate 80. Bilt Haber also sell a cavity wax which can also be used to cover rust.

 

HERE.

 

Iv spent loads of time and effort finding out via loads of research on whats the best to do with regards to rust and the above are my findings.

 

Hope this helps.

[Redtop 14 2 Cars]

The best way I find is blasting it. In your case you could get the part that is rusty 'locally' blasted. That way you can get back to bare metal to see what you actually have. If it goes through to a hole with a blaster, or the metal is very thin, then you will have to cut it out and weld a new piece of metal in. If not then you can prep that area for paint again using etch primers and the like. The other methods, 'in my experience' just mask the problem which will probably come back in a few years. I found that yes the wire brush cleans most surface rust off, but it polishes the surface and doesn't get the rust out of the deeper coroded parts.

[custard-rallye 25]

thanks for the link think al get the hydrate 80 will let you know how i get on

[GLPoomobile 958]

Wasn't the point of this topic to get a range of opinions and then try to make an informed decision? You're getting the Hydrate-80 based on one persons recommendation

 

I'm not saying there's anything wrong with it, as I have some myself (not used it yet), but what was the point in posting the topic if your just going to go with the first suggestion from only 2 opinions? You may aswell have just googled the subject and then picked a random product.

 

Let the topic run for a few days and see what other suggestions come up, as I know there are quite a few good, common products that members on here use.

Edited May 22, 2011 by GLPoomobile

[Anthony 1,003]

I used Epoxy Mastic when I did the boot floor and fuel tank area on my '89 GTi - too early to comment on long-term performance, but it's certainly a highly regarded product in the classic community.

[stu8v 68 1 Cars]

POR 15 gets good reviews.

[SurGie 54]

The reviews of the POR 15 iv read is not good but iv also read a few reviews of Hydrate 80 thats not so good either. However check out Bilt Hamber's salt water tests on their web site.

 

Like i said, total removal is the best way, and if the surface is clean steel then thats all thats needed. Even in the pitted areas as long as its clean steel. If its clean steel then there will not be any rust there due to the fact its clean steel

 

Bilt Hamper also do a good 90% zinc primer which the reviews iv read are all positive ones, lets face it its made up of 90% zinc.

 

Conclusion > If its easy to remove then remove it, dont waste your time using any products on rust if its easily removable due to space etc.

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

I used a product called Fertan on my 106 and my 205. It's so easy to use. It wasn't too long ago so I can't really comment long term. I sprayed it on some rust on the 106 about 6 months ago and it's been sat out in all weathers and theres no sign of rust coming back yet even though I haven't painted over it yet.

 

Link

 

Also quite a few good reviews online.

Edited May 22, 2011 by Daviewonder

[CosKev 16]

Removal of the rust is THE most important job to get right.

 

As above shot blasting is the best way IME,unless of course you are bare shelling the car and then getting it acid dipped is the best way by far.

 

I've used Epoxy Mastic,but now use Rust Bullet,no long term tests done on either personally,but Rust Bullet is easier to apply,gives a thinner finish,and goes off MUCH harder than Epoxy Mastic.

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

I've got some rust popping up on the drivers rear quarter on the arch lower lip. Pretty sure it's because the seam sealer on the inside of the arch has cracked. Rather than open a new topic, can someone confirm then that the best route to rust removal is to grind this away to good, solid metal then prime in etch primer and paint?

[SurGie 54]

Yes that will be fine.

 

You could try sand blasting the area but not everyone has that tool to do that type of job and as long as its clean steel then thats all thats needed.

[pa402 0]

Very useful topic as my plan for the summer is to do some rust prevention work.

 

Plan to remove surface rust from the front panels behind the bumper, the boot floor, the corner or the well by the drivers door and a little patch by the rear wheel arch. Is there anywhere else I should look?

[Anthony 1,003]

Drop the fuel tank out and you'll almost certainly find a fair bit of surface rust around that. Above the tank tends to rust through to under the rear seats and rear seat footwell too.

[SurGie 54]

Under rear seats, some look fine until you remove the sealant, thats what it was like with mine.

 

Under the servo, where the inner wing meets the bulkhead can be. This is due to someone probably dripping brake fluid which then causes the paint in that area to peel & then it rusts.

[pugman211 0]

I used epoxy mastic on my car last year. i brushed it onto the boot floor and surrounding areas, but sprayed it onto the rear beam i refurbed. Cant comment on how good it is yet as mine is still off the road.

 

Although the epoxy mastic is very good, i'm not holding any long term bets as to the efficiency of it. It seemed to be too thick (even with thinners) to get into the pores of the metal.

 

The hydrate 80 sounds very good from what i've read, and its cheaper than epoxy mastic, so give that a try. Just remember, for best results its ALL in the prep work, keep the bare metal clean and free from moisture.