Fuel Pump Relay And Power To It.

[MrG 3]

It appears that many 205's are non starters at the moment. I still can't get mine to run and have boiled it down to no fuel. So where does the power come from for the pump to get fuel to the carbs fitted (I have carbs no fuel injection)?

 

Its my fault as I removed the amp and old coild (87 model) and fitted a new H&H distributor and coil. However somewhere in the cut and move etc I've disconnected the fuel pump relay. Tried today but no joy, no fuel at all. Any pointers before I give up and call someone to do it for me?

[pug_ham 245 3 Cars]

IIRC the fuel pump relay power comes directly via the thick brown wire from the shunt box with the switched closing wire (32a) from ignition.

 

Graham.

[feb 47]

If I remember well, you can wire the fuel pump directly to a live from the fusebox in the glovebox to test try.

Edit: ignore, this doesn't answer your question where the relay get its power from

Edited May 20, 2011 by feb

[Anthony 1,003]

IIRC the fuel pump relay power comes directly via the thick brown wire from the shunt box with the switched closing wire (32a) from ignition.

This is correct

 

The relay is activated in two instances - they key turned to "crank" and thus wire 46 being live (even if the engine doesn't actually crank over), or the engine turning/running by the pulse back from the LV side of the coil. With the relay active, power is provided to the injectors and fuel pump.

[Tom Fenton 1,548]

Seeing as you run carbs, why not sack off the tachymetric relay, and do a rewiring job, though a good quality relay, with a inertia switch from a modern car built into the circuit on the low tension side of the relay? Then you can use a live from the ignition switch to turn the relay on and off, with the inertia switch to cut power to the pump in the event of an off?

[rallysteve 22]

+1 to what Tom suggests. Either get a new inertia switch, or get one from the scrap yard. Seem to remember kit car people use ones from Rovers (200,25 etc) as they are easy to mount and only have two wires.

 

Steve

[Anthony 1,003]

Or just make the existing tachymetric relay work - it's simple enough, and means that it won't suffer the issue whereby inertia cut-off switches can be accidentally triggered by hopping curbs, riding rumble strips etc whilst out on track. I'm sure that some are better than others, but certainly the standard Peugeot/Citroen ones are dreadful frankly.

[MrG 3]

thanks guys. Tom that's a good suggestion although I have to admit, wiring is all Greek to me. However I may get someone in who knows wiring and ask them to do exactly that for me. But Anthony, how do I do that? I'll drop you a pm, maybe easier off forum.

[daveyboyblack 1]

Thought i'd add to this thread rather than start another one so hope you don't mind the slight thread resurrection!

 

I've got my mi16 back from the insurers after some scrotes attempted to steal it. Ignition barrel was broken off so now I have the 4 wires from the ignition available. Just attempting to wires in a starter button and ignition switch and come across a couple of issues/questions

 

- Does the wire that would normally be position 1 ignition, actually do anything or can I forget it, and just link position 2 to the switch?

 

- I also have the same issue as above, with no power to the fuel pump. Fuel level sender has power, so it's just the circuit for the pump itself. I've checked the 15amp fuse and it's fine, so it's down to either the relay, or my understanding of the fuel pump circuit.

 

Should the fuel pump be getting power if I've wired up the ignition to position 2, and then start cranking the engine?

 

Cheers

Dave