Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
monkee87

Can You Use An Electric Window Switch As An On/off Switch?

Recommended Posts

monkee87

I wondered if this was possible as I want to maybe use one as a switch for a second fan to cool my engine. Don't want some stupid toggle switch that looks out of place..

 

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anthony

No, not directly unless you held it down for as long as you want the fan to run - which I assume you don't!

 

Can you not use something like a heated rear window or foglamp switch (with the picture removed) coupled with a relay? Would look nicely OE coupled with a five-hole switch surround, although personally I really don't see the need for either a 2nd fan or for a manual fan switch - if everything works as it should, they're both redundant and unneeded.

 

If you really wanted to use a electric window switch, then it could be done with a latching relay.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
monkee87

Cheers Anthony. :)

I don't like the 5 hole switch surrounds. :( I thought about putting the switch where an electric sunroof switch would be. (I have a tintop, so my roof console is different) that would look good IMO.

Only reason I want another fan is if I'm sat in traffic or something of the sort. My fan works as it should, doesn't do the low and hi speed though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
monkee87

How would I wire up the switch with a latching relay Anthony? Fan only needs an earth and power I assume as it's only got 2 wires. I could put the relay in the little black box on the strut top.

Seems relativly easy to do..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tom Fenton

I really don't understand the fascination with extra manual fan switches. Make it all work as it should, and then leave it alone to take care of the job for you. A single fan if working right is up to the job even on my turbo car which works harder and also has the turbo dumping heat into the coolant system.

A manual override on something is great until the nut behind the wheel is busy perving at the nice lass walking past or daydreaming about sideways control on the big roundabout on the bypass and forgets to press the switch until the engine is boiling its tits off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
monkee87

Mine does work, I think I have the wrong thermostat in the rad though as mine doesn't do high and low speeds.

My car is my daily hack and I've had problems in my previous GTis where the fan didnt work and I couldn't figure out why..

 

Just want it as a precaution really. :) if I can make it look like it's not there then I'm happy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
cRaig

You keep saying it works, and then say that its got the wrong thermostat in and the high and low speed (a resistor problem?) doesnt work either.

Indstead of spending time adding more complication to the system, solve the things that arent working 100%, and if you still have issues (which, you shouldnt) then think about adding things.

 

As Tom says, on a standard daily driver, the cooling system is perfectly adequate when working properly...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
pug_ham
Mine does work, I think I have the wrong thermostat in the rad though as mine doesn't do high and low speeds.

It has to get very hot for the high speed to come one, mine has only ever come on at the low speed & that is with both oil & water temp guages to the top of the scales.

 

Graham.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
damien

as above, if your coolent system is working there is no need for a switch, if you do need a switch for short term use/a temp fix you could rig it to the brown plug by the thermostat and put the switch in the ashtray

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
monkee87

It has to get very hot for the high speed to come one, mine has only ever come on at the low speed & that is with both oil & water temp guages to the top of the scales.

 

Graham.

 

Pretty sure the fan should come on at 90 at a slow speed and the when it hits 100 it speeds up. Car runs just below 80.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
monkee87

as above, if your coolent system is working there is no need for a switch, if you do need a switch for short term use/a temp fix you could rig it to the brown plug by the thermostat and put the switch in the ashtray

 

I think you mis understand what I'd like to do. :)

I will leave one fan as per normal and wire up a second fan on a separate circuit as it were that I can turn on when ever I fancy. I don't have an oil cooler in my cowling because I have the romote one on the gear box.

I literately want it as a back up and maybe just keep my engine temp down in general.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
james_pug

Sounds like what you'd be best odd doing is looking on carbuildersoloutions website they do a fan switch with a temp probe you can set the switch to turn the fan at what ever temp you want it, no messing around wiring in switched into the cabin.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
monkee87

Sounds like what you'd be best odd doing is looking on carbuildersoloutions website they do a fan switch with a temp probe you can set the switch to turn the fan at what ever temp you want it, no messing around wiring in switched into the cabin.

 

But I want the James bond eque secret switch! :lol: that does sound good but ultimately pointless as the original system on the car does exactly that. Rather have a manual one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
james_pug

You could get out and turn the dial to turn it on lol sounds like you want to make work for yourself, be easiest to just hide a toggle switch up under the dash

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Henry Yorke

First step is to test the low and high fan speed switch in the rad. These often corrode and can cause the fan not to work correctly. It is a 3 pin JPT( IIRC) connector and easy to figure out which is the earth and put 12v to the other two contacts to make sure both speeds work.

 

The next step is to ensure the thermostat works. There are various settings of these. IIRC I have put an 82 degree one in my CTI turbo. To test, just whip it out, pop it in a pan of water on the hob and bring to the boil! As long as it opens and closes before boiling then you will be ok.

 

Finally, make sure your expansion cap is in decent condition. The system is designed to run pressurised to reduce the chances of boiling. If this leaks then it has a greater chance of boiling up. Most 205 ones are tired and do not hold the correct pressure. I had this on a 1.6 GTI once which I thought was a HG failure at first but was just the cap :)

 

As said before, extra switches for things is just a bit geeky and usually for people with Landrovers, sandals and beards who like to fiddle (in all meanings of the word). If things aren't knackered then you shouldn't need them.

5514945637_ca70d70eff.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
monkee87

You could get out and turn the dial to turn it on lol sounds like you want to make work for yourself, be easiest to just hide a toggle switch up under the dash

 

That is essentially the idea, but instead of a toggle, I'd use an electric window switch. I want to go for the non drilling holes in the dash approach... :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
smithy

First step is to test the low and high fan speed switch in the rad. These often corrode and can cause the fan not to work correctly. It is a 3 pin JPT( IIRC) connector and easy to figure out which is the earth and put 12v to the other two contacts to make sure both speeds work.

 

The next step is to ensure the thermostat works. There are various settings of these. IIRC I have put an 82 degree one in my CTI turbo. To test, just whip it out, pop it in a pan of water on the hob and bring to the boil! As long as it opens and closes before boiling then you will be ok.

 

Finally, make sure your expansion cap is in decent condition. The system is designed to run pressurised to reduce the chances of boiling. If this leaks then it has a greater chance of boiling up. Most 205 ones are tired and do not hold the correct pressure. I had this on a 1.6 GTI once which I thought was a HG failure at first but was just the cap :)

 

As said before, extra switches for things is just a bit geeky and usually for people with Landrovers, sandals and beards who like to fiddle (in all meanings of the word). If things aren't knackered then you shouldn't need them.

5514945637_ca70d70eff.jpg

 

 

on my original setup it did not have an earth at the rad fan temp switch,you have a common + then a feed out to operate the low and high speeds,only way to test is by heating it up and using a meter to make sure it switches to low speed and then over to high speed once it is hotter.

personally i would just change it rather than testing if it is out anyway.

 

only way to use a window switch would be having it to operate a latching relay like anthony said,one way latches it and puts fan on the other way de energises the relay.

 

i have modified my fan to work on one speed only with the use of a relay,the draw back with OE setup is the temp switch switches a live causing premature failure.

mine switches an eart to relay coil and the relay takes the high load.

Edited by smithy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Daviewonder

Instead of an electric window switch why not use the electric hood switch from a CTI? Comes mounted to the little tray in front of the gearstick.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
stu8v

Instead of a switch just twist the wires together when needed.........

 

No drilling required!

 

Take the advice of people that know, A window switch is really not the right piece of kit for the job. End of.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
monkee87

I love how contraversial my idea is! :lol:

CTi switch might be good, but will probably be impossible to find. Plus i'm guessing you hold them down to operate the hood? I have a non sunroof which has removable blanks in the roof console which are electric window switch sized, pretty much the only reason I asked if it would be suitable.

If I do fit a second fan on a manual switch I want it to look as OE as possible hence why I started this thread.. Don't want some crappy silver metal toggle switch sticking out my dash. That would look so crap.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
smithy

With a window switch you will Defo need to run a relay as the internal contacts would not handle the load of a cooling fan.

 

Personally don't see a need but it is doable the latching relay could be located by shunt box,that's where mine is so it is close to fan wiring.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
monkee87

With a window switch you will Defo need to run a relay as the internal contacts would not handle the load of a cooling fan.

 

Personally don't see a need but it is doable the latching relay could be located by shunt box,that's where mine is so it is close to fan wiring.

 

Do you want to tell me how to wire it up? :) going to put the relay in the little black box on the strut top that all phase 2's have.

Edited by monkee87

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×