Wheel Stud Conversion.

[SurGie 54]

Hi Member's,

 

I'm thinking of getting a set of these from Shenpar and wondered if anyone on here has them fitted ?

 

Can anyone share their experience with these ones ?

 

Also is it just a case of screwing them into the hub, fit the wheels then bolt up and forget, or should they need some thread lock on them ?

 

Cheers.

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Ideally thread lock, but I have never used it and have had no problems.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

The studs & Nut's look rather like the Grayston ones, I know the high tensile ones are well over £100.00 a set and worth it

[rallysteve 22]

I have got a set fitted on mine, I believe they came from Rally Design, they do make putting the wheel on a lot easier (even though it only has 2 at the moment )

Only problem is the nuts can cross thread quite easily. fitment was easy, I tapped the thread out the clean it up, then used some loctite thread lock to fit them.

 

Steve

[SurGie 54]

I assume you screw them in the hub up to the unthreaded area bit ?

 

What gauge is the high tensile type, somewhere in the region of 12.5 ?

 

I'd have thought all wheel bolts would be in that kind of range anyway.

 

Cheers.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Screw the studs into the hub as far as you can but ideally fully up to the shouldered / plain section with locktite to help hold them in.

 

Rally Design definately used to sell the Graystone studs, even had the same part number for them on their site as on the graystone site.

 

Not sure on material spec from graystone, it could be worth spending a bit searching thei site for this info if its there but apart from reports of stripped threads I've yet to hear of one shearing or breaking but I have had one or two in hubs / beams I've bought that have sheared off & they weren't graystone studs afaik but the thread lock made removing the remains a pita.

 

Graham.

[tri_longer 25]

I have the Grayston ones fitted. They have been fine apart from a couple did end up cross threading due to user error, one thing is they are a softer material and do strip more easily.

 

If you plan on taking them on and off a lot, i would look at the PTS type high tensile ones. I've had experience at rally servicing with these and they are very nice to use and very positive with the location of the nut to stud.

 

definitely use threadlock when putting them in.

[welshpug 1,655]

Have a look in the for sale section, it was a while ago it was posted but a member is doing high tensile studs to PTS spec.

 

you may need to Google search to find it as I think it was some 18 months ago but have seen recent posts on other forums.

[SurGie 54]

Yeah, i've decided im going to get some made by my fabricator using PTS type steel, so the threading will not happen so easily. But i will get a set of 4 per wheel as a spare one just in case, i wont be using any type of air gun putting them back on. I am only fitting 3 on per wheel made due to having some of those better type of wheel locks, although they can be taken off its better to have them than regretting it. Anything that takes more time if anyone is wanting to take them off.

 

Cheers.

[joe1joe 3]

i did see some wheel studs in a compbrake book yesterday, and they also offer the wheel nuts also.

 

they do seem very cheap so maybe not the best quality but that may not be the case!

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

I have an abundance of long high grade bolts at work, with the wheel bolt thread.

 

If I get my lathe man to machine off the bolt heads at a suitable length therefore turning them into studs, would this be suitable for car studs? I can't see anything wrong with it, the bolts are the graphite colour of high grade stuff but I can't remember the exact grade.

Edited April 29, 2011 by Alan_M

[welshpug 1,655]

They do need to have a shank ideally so they tighten down onto something.

 

The other way to do it is to knock in studs from cars that use studs normally, Subaru's IIRC are the right thread, it will mean druilling the flanges out a little so they'll never be usable with bolts again, not sure if there's space to do this with the lfange still in the hub or whethern it'll be new bearings time whilst fitting the studs.

[stu8v 68 1 Cars]

Ideally you want rolled threads instead of cut, they will be alot stronger.

 

The subaru stud idea sounds good as there 10 a penny.

[harryskid 193]

I loctited mine but they still have a tendency to undo when wheel changing.

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Without being rude if you loctite them properly they will not undo.

 

Tap out threads to clean. Degrease tapped hole and stud properly with solvent degreaser. Do not touch degreased area with fingers or anything. Apply loctite, high strength (green). Wind them in, leave it to go off.

 

I did this to mine, when I had to change a drive flange recently due to a duff wheel bearing I had to burn the loctite out with the gas torch before they would undo.

[Anthony 1,002]

I wouldn't even say that it needs to be high-strength loctite Tom, atleast not from my experience.

 

I just used the weak blue loctite on mine as that's all I had to hand, and so long as you ensure that the threads that the wheel nuts go on have a smear of copper grease to prevent siezing, the wheel nut always comes off and leaves the stud fixed in the wheel. After all, just need to ensure that it's easier for the wheel nut to unscrew from the stud than it is for the stud to unscrew from the hub and it'll be fine. Key thing is to make sure that you properly clean and degrease before threadlocking as you say.

 

I've got the Greystone stud and nut kit from one of the Group Buys on here a few years ago, and never had any issues with them whatsoever - they do exactly what they say on the tin, no more and no less. There's another kit on a 205 I bought a little while back, and they're perfect as well.

[harryskid 193]

Ha i did not degrease the threads, will have another go at it. Thanks for the tip lads!

[SurGie 54]

Yes thanks Tom for that, when ever i use lock thread ill degrease them all, especially the fly to crank ones

 

Cheers.