Spiky 37 Posted April 13, 2011 car has been sat since last july, removed all the SRF brake fluid and fitted new calipers on the front, put in new fluid using ezzibleed i cant get a solid pedal, there is a little resistance but still goes to floor, but the pedal dont feel right, it's a but jumpy on the way back, it's as if the seal is catching inside the MC, it's not smooth, but a but notchy could this actually be the fault? tempted to just get a replacement MC what are your views? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toddy 7 Posted April 13, 2011 I would be looking at the AP calipers, the 2 pots have the joiner pipe at the bottom, therefore air gets trapped in the inner piston, you can invert each caliper turning it slowly and bleed normally or use the process below, let us know ow you get on. You've got to be really careful not to pop the pistons too far out or they'll come out completely! Gripping the tool to the disc will prevent this. ------------------------------------- use something like a large nut over two of the roadwheel studs on each front wheel and the normal roadwheel nuts to hold the disc firmly against the hub/drive flange. Get yourself some thing to move the front pistons in and out - I use one of these (http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht268-disc-brake-piston-spreader). If you look at the front calipers you'll see that the fluid enters at the top of the inner piston and there is a pipe from the bottom of the inner piston to the bottom of the outer piston. The bleed nipple is at the top of the outer piston. Clearly this is a really dumb design as any air trapped in the inner piston has to be pushed to the bottom of the caliper, along the connecting pipe and into the outer piston. What I do is remove the pads on one wheel, place the tool above around that disc and wind it so that both pistons are fully home and bleed the brake. Now unwind the tool so that it gripping the disc. Pump the brake pedal to force the pistons out to the tool (it's best to do this with an assistant to make sure it's all moving OK). Wind the tool to force only the inner piston fully home (make sure the outer piston stays fully out). Once the inner piston is fully home continue winding the tool until the outer piston is fully home. Then bleed that brake. The thinking behind this process is first to get as much air as possible out of the outer piston (tool in and both pistons fully home). Then it should have forced most of the air trapped in the inner piston back along the hose/pipe into the master cylinder (inner pistons pressed home and outer pistons fully out). With the final wind (both pistons pressed fully home) should have moved any air further along the hose/pipe towards the master cylinder and the final bleed should remove any air from the outer piston. I know that seems complicated but it beats removing the caliper!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spiky 37 Posted April 13, 2011 WELL FOOK ME, this IS going to be a right PAIN....lol cheers for the info, will be spendinga few more hours on the brakes then *nice sigh from the mrs who is watching me type this too* Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spiky 37 Posted April 13, 2011 you'd think, as it's pressure beld it would get all the air out hopefully get some time on it tomorrow, only thig stopping me drive the bloody thing Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daviewonder 533 3 Cars Posted April 14, 2011 Have you checked over the hoses to check they aren't ballooning when you press the pedal? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spiky 37 Posted April 14, 2011 i have braided lines from MC to capiler, so "hopefuly" thats not happening Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
