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miamigtimark

Lost My Mojo!

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miamigtimark

My 205 gti has decided to eat itself again and im seriously thinking of getting shot! Has an agreed insurance value with Flux at £2200. What can i expect with a running (but mullered) gti6 engine.

Spec as follows.... 92 j 1600 base in miami blue with full goodwood leather and steering wheel . 1.9 goodwood style wheels. 113k on clocks.

gti6 engine (mileage irrelevent now) with baker bm silicone hose kit and thermostat conversion.

Re angled manifold and modded down pipe (no tilt).

All properly done but not much luck with engines!!!

Lots of past history and 11 months ticket.

really clean straight car. Its a sunny BTW

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Anthony

With a dead engine the honest answer is not a great deal - £500 maybe?

 

If you can do the work yourself or know a friend that'll do it for a reasonable sum, you'd be much better off just buying a known good (bare) engine and getting the car running again - the difference in value between what it's worth now and what it's worth as a running ready to use car will easily cover the cost.

 

Remember though that agreed value with the insurance, and what someone will actually buy the car for, aren't the same thing.

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miamigtimark

Ta for the reply.

Ok so this is the second engine ive put in. First siezed. Second completed yesterday...Spun shell today. (diagnosed by 2x mechs).

They have said its easier / cheaper to buy another engine (making it 3!!) rather than rebuild number 2.

Should i buy another engine OR rebuild what ive got.

At least if i rebuild i know im not wasting more money on another unknown unit.

My issue is not the cost but rather the time to rebuild.

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rallyeash

buy a known running engine, did you know history of the other engine before you fitting them?

worth spending the extra money on a decent 6 engine with recent belt, pump etc done. do it properly :)

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miamigtimark

Yep bought the engine off a trusted forum member.

Not having a moan about that though..i believe sold in good faith and all that.

Tried to do it properly twice now. Not taken any short cuts with the conversion but the actual units ive bought have been pants!

Really really frustrating. :angry:

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rallyeash

sounds bad luck mate, im sure if you bought another known decent engine you'd be fine but given you've done that twice already :unsure:

if your compitant with engines you would be better off to strip yours down and give it a rebuild.

 

if its just spun a bearing you may get away with a crank regrind and the correct bearings to match. shouldnt be to expensive and have the added benefit of new head gasket, bolts, waterpump, cambelt etc.

Edited by rallyeash

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miamigtimark

Right then. Slept on it and decided to fix it yet again.

Anyone give me an idea of parts / prices needed for bottom end rebuild??

Cheers.

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M@tt

you need to check the piston rod isn't ovalled when the shell spun (assuming it was a big end bearing that spun)

 

that means head off to get rod/piston out = new head gasket/bolts etc as well.

 

Not work not doing it, as if you dont check it and put it all back together and it does it again you've thrown a load more cash down the drain :(

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miamigtimark

you need to check the piston rod isn't ovalled when the shell spun (assuming it was a big end bearing that spun)

 

that means head off to get rod/piston out = new head gasket/bolts etc as well.

 

Not work not doing it, as if you dont check it and put it all back together and it does it again you've thrown a load more cash down the drain :(

 

Ok i understand that now.

From searching i can see that these can be rebuilt so....

Sump is going to come off etc etc so i can look at the crank and shells and ill take it from there.

Any one give me a rough list of parts / sundries i will need to complete.

Im handy with a spanner so thats not a problem.

I understand that it may cost a fair bit to rebuild but im sick of taking chances on 2nd hand lumps.

Cheers guys!

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Tom Fenton

It maybe doesn't seem like it, but its easier really to take the engine out totally. If its spun a shell then it will need at the very least a crank check and polish and probably a re grind.

 

So to get this out the gearbox has to come off.

 

Then the head needs to come off to get the piston and rod out, the rod also needs checking at the machine shop, it may need resizing.

 

By the time you've got the box off and head off its just as easy really to take the lot out and get it in pieces on a bench rather than wrestling with it in the car still.

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ORB

Yup, deffo engine out, don't mess about with it whilst in the car.

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miamigtimark

Update:

Inspected the big end bearings.

All look worn but one in paticular looks like its squashed??

What i mean is the bearing is intact but is rough at the edges as if its curled round the bottom of the con rod??

whats happened?

 

Mods: please move if inapropriate for general chat.

Cheers!

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Tom Fenton

As the old phrase goes, a picture says a thousand words.

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Baz

Sounds like it' spun a shell perhaps.

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miamigtimark

Update.

Confirmed spun shell.

Crank now removed to be ground.(very little scoring and only on one journal). New bearings to be supplied.

Head will be coming off to remove ovalled con.

can anyone tell me pug (or decent after market) prices for...

Oil pump

head gasket

Head bolts

And anything else i might require.

Cheers!

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M@tt

any decent motor factor should be able to get you those bits

 

headgasket = payen

bolts = BGA

 

i wouldn't say a new fuel pump is absolutely necessary unless you know its not working. might be a good opportunity to pop in an uprated spring though to up the fuel pressure abit. have a search (google) for the part number.

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