Need Help Car Not Starting?!

[carlh.1 8]

As above the engine is a 1.9 mi16 bottom end with 8v head, t25 turbo running emerald ecu, with zetec coil.

 

The car ran fine last time i drove it started first turn of the key.

 

On sunday i got the car ready for the mot, just a cv boot. When i came to start the car it wouldnt start just turning with the occasional back fire.

 

i got a new set of plugs and it started fine, drove it to the mot it was running great.

 

On the way back from the mot it wouldnt idle and when u put the engine under load it bogged and coughed and spluttered.

 

tom fenton suggested the coil, so i put a new 1 on tonight but no joy its back to it was on sunday nite, occasionly starting but only on the outside 2 cylinders.

 

I took the fuel rail out turned it over and theres a good 1 METER spray from each injector.

Ive also had each plug out and they appesr to have a good spark,

the lap top also says that the ecu is getting signal from each sensor

 

Sorry for the essay, im reaching the end of the line with this car its had no expense spared but still someting always goes wrong with it.

 

any help or advice would be great thanks carl.

[Tom Fenton 1,548]

What is your crank signal trigger setup, can this have moved at all?

 

Also I would try a compression test just to rule out any mechanical problem.

 

Is the ECU seeing the throttle position change, I had a throttle pot fail on me with all kind of weird and wonderful symptoms.

[carlh.1 8]

What is your crank signal trigger setup, can this have moved at all?

 

Also I would try a compression test just to rule out any mechanical problem.

 

Is the ECU seeing the throttle position change, I had a throttle pot fail on me with all kind of weird and wonderful symptoms.

 

The crank sensors a 60-2 trigger mi fly wheel, checked the cables for breaks all seem fine, the ecu is seeing the tps from 0 to 100%,

Although when I first hooked the ecu to laptop it said the tps was at 28% when the throttle was off? So I reset it to correct, I'll try a compression test tonight, I hope it doesn't show any thing it only got rebuilt 2 thou miles ago.

[carlh.1 8]

The crank sensors a 60-2 trigger mi fly wheel, checked the cables for breaks all seem fine, the ecu is seeing the tps from 0 to 100%,

Although when I first hooked the ecu to laptop it said the tps was at 28% when the throttle was off? So I reset it to correct, I'll try a compression test tonight, I hope it doesn't show any thing it only got rebuilt 2 thou miles ago.

 

 

 

Forgot to mension when the car did the emission test it was 6% so double wht it should be, could the car be running massivly to rich and flooding?

and did use a tenner of fuel in 5 miles the brand new plugs were also black as hell after 5 miles driving.

 

the car was mapped by dave walker, the ecu cant change its peramiters can it?

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

sounds like its everfueling somewhat.

 

try disconnecting the injectors and turning it over a few times or cleaning the plugs.

 

mine has a hell of a time starting from cold as its running a little rich at cold start. once its running though its fine. (not running emerald tho)

[carlh.1 8]

sounds like its everfueling somewhat.

 

try disconnecting the injectors and turning it over a few times or cleaning the plugs.

 

mine has a hell of a time starting from cold as its running a little rich at cold start. once its running though its fine. (not running emerald tho)

 

 

Just done a compression test, all 4 cylinders are 180psi give or take 3 psi.

 

Iive tried disconecting the injectors and turning it over. when there reconnected still no joy it coughs fires for a second on what sounds like 2 cylinders then dies again. the next time i try it just turns then back fires.

 

The only thing i can notice on the ecu screen is that the injection correction is at 119% when the ignition is on then flickers around 119% to 130% when cranking is this normal?

[Tom Fenton 1,548]

Does sound very rich. If you look on the live mapping screen you should be able to see what is prompting it to add 130% to the fuelling, e.g. air temp or water temp etc. Are all the sensors feeding back reasonable values?

 

Have you got a wideband lambda fitted to it?

[carlh.1 8]

Does sound very rich. If you look on the live mapping screen you should be able to see what is prompting it to add 130% to the fuelling, e.g. air temp or water temp etc. Are all the sensors feeding back reasonable values?

 

Have you got a wideband lambda fitted to it?

 

 

When i tryed cranking last all the sensors seemed to be giving realistic readings, apart from the tps reading 28% when throttle wasa off, but i reset that.

 

No wideband lambda fitted, think i might need to get 1 fitted to it, would probably make life alot easier to diagnose problems?

 

i rang emerald today they said to save the map and ecu configuration and send it in an email to them, then theyll have a look through it for any problems.

 

as i say im allright with engines but the mapping side is not my strong point.

[carlh.1 8]

Im finally happy again!

 

I just went out to the car with a can of petrol in one hand and a match in the other ready to end my troubles! haha

 

thought i would give it one last try before i gave up with the thing, when it fired up first turn of the key!!

It was a bit lumpy at first banging and ppoping took it up the road with it still hesitant under load.

 

checked the plugs they looked to be clearing up.

 

Took the car out again and it was back to being a rocket ship like nothing had been wrong with it.

 

Who knows what the problem was it must just have been its time of the month!!

 

thanks for your help and advice

[Tom Fenton 1,548]

I would certainly get a wideband lambda fitted, this will mean you know straightaway if it for some reason starts to run mega rich or lean. Also good peace of mind when driving it hard that it is rich enough. Unlike a NA engine which will just run a tad hot if lean, a forced induction engine will quickly detonate and destroy itself if it runs lean on boost.

[carlh.1 8]

I agree!!

 

Do you have any idea which wide band sensor is best suited to the emerald ecu? Im not sure if different sensors have different wire configurations?

[Tom Fenton 1,548]

Any of them should work with the ECU, the one I would recommend for ease of fitment and also price is the AEM kit, available for a good price from the USA on Ebay.

[Boost_junkie 0]

Hi

 

Quite new to this forum but will give you guys some of my limited knowledge.

 

My 205/406 sri conversion was exhibiting simliar problems, but obviously mine had the wide band from the 406 plumbed in.

 

Not firing on 1 and 4 but would still run.... we were getting a spark but just not very strong

 

To cut a very long story and about £100 worth of parts including plugs, coil, leads.

 

It was the spark amplifier or spark module or ignition module (every place I phoned seemed to call it a differetnt thing)

 

Once this was changed the car ran fine, bit rich but fine

 

A quick wideband road test found the car was running an afr of about 10:1 which is quite rich.... Nothing to write home about and as mentioned with forced induction better to be too rich than too lean.

 

Worth an hour just to check

 

Good luck

[Tom Fenton 1,548]

Remember Carlh is running an Emerald ECU which fires the coils direct, so no ign amp etc to go wrong.

 

I agree totally that rich is better on a turbo engine, but 10:1 is way way TOO rich and will be making the thing sluggish as well as bloody thirsty I would expect. Between 12 and 12.5:1 on boost is much more like it.

 

I am assuming you have fitted an aftermarket wideband lambda, as the OE 406 turbo only has a narrowband sensor?

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

Hi

 

Quite new to this forum but will give you guys some of my limited knowledge.

 

My 205/406 sri conversion was exhibiting simliar problems, but obviously mine had the wide band from the 406 plumbed in.

 

Not firing on 1 and 4 but would still run.... we were getting a spark but just not very strong

 

To cut a very long story and about £100 worth of parts including plugs, coil, leads.

 

It was the spark amplifier or spark module or ignition module (every place I phoned seemed to call it a differetnt thing)

 

Once this was changed the car ran fine, bit rich but fine

 

A quick wideband road test found the car was running an afr of about 10:1 which is quite rich.... Nothing to write home about and as mentioned with forced induction better to be too rich than too lean.

 

Worth an hour just to check

 

Good luck

 

 

Hi and welcome.

 

Start your own topic on this - should give you some good help/