Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

rallyeash

[trackday_prep] 205 2.1 16V Rallye Track Car

Recommended Posts

chipstick

You'll be at Pugfest with the car as if nothing's happened no doubt?

 

As you say these things happen and you can't dwell on it. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rallyeash

That's the plan Chipstick.

 

Hoping to have the car all done by this weekend and back on the road. Then will just need a dent man to make it mint which I'll probably get sorted for next week.

 

Was a trackday Calvinhorse

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

Was this a trackday or racing?

 

neither specifically, 15 minute action day session, where all the hero's go to show off and try to overtake anything, even in the no overtaking zones,...

 

 

I usually attend to watch the Hero's fall off the track :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rallyeash

Haha piss off!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
A1AXX

I'm still blaming the Saab!!!! He late braked to put himself in the middle..

 

Ha that rage buggy aswell, geez he was a trackday hero!! Traffic? Overtake on the grass!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Batfink

You might want to consider moving the dry sump oil tank as its pretty vulnerable!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rallyeash

That maybe but I dont really intend to crash again! I don't really want it inside the car though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anthony

That maybe but I dont really intend to crash again!

To be fair, I'm not sure you intended to crash the first time either!

 

I guess you're a little stuck as to where there's physical space to fit it anyway, unless it would fit on the bulkhead behind the battery tray possibly (where the header tank normally is)? It's out of the cabin and far less exposed there, just a case of whether there is space and how problemsome the plumbing would be.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rallyeash

Haha your right! Well the oil catch tank and header tank lives in that part of the engine bay, also pipework over the gearbox ain't guna be great.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Batfink

Thats where I would put it. I dont think pipework would be that bad.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rallyeash

Space is an issue too it's to high to fit there.

I was chucking it around the bay when I originally fitted it and the only option was where it is now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Mad Scientist

Yeah, that tank won't fit on the bulkhead. Mine is there, and I had to have a custom one made to fit with enough oil capacity.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rallyeash

couple of updates.

from French Car Show. had 3 sessions at Combe and the first time out since binning it....

parked on the 306 GTI-6 stand

IMG_2540_zps4b3d3f3c.jpg

 

IMG_2541_zpse4214d90.jpg

 

Bought some 6 Pot KADS to go under the c5 steel's

 

IMG_2575_zps7660f88d.jpg

 

IMG_2583_zps5c07b57e.jpg

 

need around 3mm extra clearance to get the C5's on so rather than run some 3mm spacers and loose the lip im going to get some wider hubcentrics which for track work are much safer. I could get some alloys that have better clearance but I dont know of any alloys that suit my car. Looks much better with the steel look.

 

I also devloped a bottom end knock at french car show which had be worried, after some looking around and some head scratching I found this.

 

IMG_2587_zpse2df489e.jpg

 

That was a Rich W one that has only covered a couple of K and about 2 years old.
I ordered a replacement from Pug1off (I know they dont actually make them) and to be honest it looks a much better finished product than the Rich W one, it also is flat in the centre of the pulley which is nicer to bolt the dry sump pulley onto, rather than a dished area.

 

IMG_2585_zpse26fa240.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
alexcrosse

my kad 6 pots work great mate, you'll like then. I recommend DS1.11 pads for them. camauto can get them for you.

Cheers, Al.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rallyeash

they have got nearly new DS2500's fitted already so will run them and see what i think. looking forward to trying them out, get the back wheels up in the air haha

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
allanallen

The pulley wasn't the knocking surely? Or had the bolt come loose?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rallyeash

well you could physically grab it and move it even with the bolt up tight, only a couple of mm each way to the left and right. it would get worse with the revs which makes sence and it was coming from the end of the crank. Not doing it now with the new pulley! did you hear the knocking?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dcc

when its under tension surely it wouldn't move at all?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rallyeash

could just get it to move on the keyway as you can see with the wear.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dcc

The reason I found it odd as I am sure there are several XU's which dont even use a woodruff key. I imagine as suggested by Allen the bolt wasnt tight

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rallyeash

the bolt was tight, I was hanging off a 24" breaker bar to undo the bolt which i used locktite on too.

Without being funny, I could hear the noise from that area, found play in the pulley (when tight), removed the dry sump belt/pulley, found a worn Keyway in the crank pulley, purchased a new crank pulley which eliminated the play after re torquing and the noise has now gone away.

 

I was there doing the job, hearing the noise, seeing the problem and resolved the issue....

 

Id imagine if there is engines that dont have a keyway most likely there will be a taper on the shaft.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sandy

It could be that the dry sump pump drive wheel is bottomed on the crank nose and not fully clamping the pulley. I seem to remember the Pace one doing that before and I had to face it off to be sure. If so, it may just do it again and the cam timing isn't really secure in that case... you've been very lucky not the shear the woodruff!

On many modern unkeyed cranks/cams, it's not tapered, it's just the face friction keeping it together and correctly assembled they're usually reliable (for example all my Zetec SE race engines).

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rallyeash

That is a concern I've had, not allowing clamping force to the crank pulley.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rallyeash

Thinking about it it might pay for me to remove the pace pulley, measure the depth of the - on the crank pulley and the + on the pace pulley with verniers to make sure it's clamping correctly and not bottoming out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

Yup, see how much clearance you have from the nose of the crank to the face of the pulley, see if theres a difference to the old pulley too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now

×