Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
ktm_kate

[car_restoration] 1989 205 Gl

Recommended Posts

allye

Don't worry about the rebuilt kit, there is loads of extras in there you don't need! Carb has come up really nice, are you going to have it set up correctly?

 

I like this project alot! Should go well when its done, what wheels/brakes are you going for?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ktm_kate
Carb has come up really nice, are you going to have it set up correctly?

 

I will get it set up, I hadn't really thought about it in detail yet tho. What needs doing.. Float hight, idle and mixture, anything else?

 

what wheels/brakes are you going for?

 

 

I'm sticking with the 14" pepperpots. I have a messy set of mixed speedline/pug that I think I'm going to paint white for the rally/cav look ;), and I'm looking for a good set of speedlines to have refirb'ed back to stock including the turned hubs.

There's a wheel company in Nuneaton, GTI - Distinction, who claim to be able to get the turned finish and are pug specialists. Anyone on here tried them? (or are they on this forum even?) Any reviews?

 

 

And I'm going for the 1.6 caliper/1.9 disc set up with recon Bendix calipers and Brembo discs.

 

DSC00267.jpg

 

22032011770.jpg

 

I painted the pad carriers in the same paint as the rocker cover. It didn't stick too well tho and I'm not sure it's going to last long.

I didn't paint the cylinders because I thought it would be hard to mask it well enough to make a good job and I'd rather have them un painted then have messy paint. There's still time if I change my mind.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ktm_kate

Small update.

 

Rear beam swapped and brakes refirbed.

 

Stock beam is missing the plates that go from the main beamtube to the brake cable bracket. Does that mean it has no anti roll bar?

 

DSC00361.jpg

 

 

Rear brakes stripped, back plate rubbed back and hammerite'ed, new shoes and cylinders fitted.

 

DSC00388.jpg

 

 

Also, i have been getting a little bit 'concorse' lately and one of the symptoms of this is my desire to have origonal dealer number plates. I did a bit of googling and have ordered a set of replica plates, rear window sticker and tax disk holder. Fingers crossed they look good, I'll post pics when they arrive.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SurGie

I painted the pad carriers in the same paint as the rocker cover. It didn't stick too well tho and I'm not sure it's going to last long.

I didn't paint the cylinders because I thought it would be hard to mask it well enough to make a good job and I'd rather have them un painted then have messy paint. There's still time if I change my mind.

 

 

For my calipers and servo/MS im using THIS stuff, its good for heat and chemical resistant.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tom Fenton

Stock beam is missing the plates that go from the main beamtube to the brake cable bracket. Does that mean it has no anti roll bar?

 

Indeed it does, the blanks you can see are just plugs to stop moisture and road dirt and debris getting into the beam.

 

Do you have any plans for the old one, I would be interested if you plan to sell it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ktm_kate

Indeed it does, the blanks you can see are just plugs to stop moisture and road dirt and debris getting into the beam.

 

Do you have any plans for the old one, I would be interested if you plan to sell it.

 

 

I guessed the GT would have a stifer ARB but I didn't know the stock one would have none at all.

 

The old beam is going back on the donor car to get it rolling for now, it might end up for sale once the donor is done with, watch out for the massive post project clear out..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
DaveW

Yeah the 1.0 and 1.1 did'nt have a arb, thats why they corner on the door handles :D

Edited by DaveW

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ktm_kate

My new number plate kit has arrived. :D

 

DSC00396.jpg

 

Top one is the plate I took off the car, its old but its not the origonal, the dealer changed name a few years after the car was sold (and an 8 was added to the phone number). I had the new plates made with the origonal dealer name and number to match the dealer sticker. Incidently the nuber would today be 020 8946 0123 so having the old '01' London dialing code is a nice bit of history for the car.

 

DSC00397.jpg

 

DSC00394.jpg

 

It was all made using jpeg images that I provided, £40 delivered.

 

What do you think?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ktm_kate

OK, I'm fully prepaired for the 'we told you so' and 'you should have searched the forum' responces but I have had to accept that my 1.1/euro ralley manifold can not be adapted for a TU3..

 

The nice neat 4 into 1 design makes welding access next to imposible and the pipes come in at such different angles that 18mm can not be added by tweeking them. :( I was given the option by my fabricator to cut out the 4into1 and have him make up a new 4-2-1 section but this would have been quite pricy. Instead I opted to cut my losses and get a 106 manifold. On the plus side having the rallye pipe that came in two sections meant I already had the back pipe and the 106 pipes just needed to be shortened and have a 2" tube welded on.

 

Now I'm left with a 4 into 1 down pipe to fit a 1.1 or euro Rallye if anyone is in the market for one!

 

DSC00400.jpg

 

They look very similar, but a few mm is all it takes to make the difference between fitting and not fitting! Sometimes you have to learn the hard way.

 

DSC00399.jpg

 

DSC00398.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
tdr_1976

Nice job!

 

Before you fit the engine into the car I recommend that you heat wrap the manifold, as it will make the engine bay a Lot hotter!

 

I put the heat wrap on my manifold after I fitted it onto the engine, a right bugger of a job!

 

Keep up the good work!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ktm_kate

Nice job!

 

Before you fit the engine into the car I recommend that you heat wrap the manifold, as it will make the engine bay a Lot hotter!

 

I put the heat wrap on my manifold after I fitted it onto the engine, a right bugger of a job!

 

Keep up the good work!

 

 

Hmm, I have seen a lot of people on the forum heat wrapping exhausts... I was planning to leave it as it is because a) Half the reson I got the ss manifold was because its shiny and pritty ;) and b, I plan to keep the original intake ducting (bar the hot air gubbins) so the engine should pick up nice cool air from the front of the bay anyway.

 

I am assuming its hot air off the exhaust being picked up by a k&n on the back of the engine which makes exhaust wrap needed? Please let me know if I'm wrong because I'll be fitting it soon.

Edited by ktm_kate

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Obey_R

It's also because of where the original airbox is situated, as the cool air comes from the intake, round to the filter box it takes on the heat in the engine bay. Because the airbox is right above the manifold, and there's a lot of heat coming from the manifold, it soon heats up - no matter where the air is from.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ktm_kate

Well, the news is the engine is fitted so my little 5 door is now sporting a TU3s! Horray B)

 

 

This is as close to being IN the garage as the car (or any car) has ever been.

DSC00483.jpg

 

 

 

Easy does it with all that freash paint.

DSC00485.jpg

 

 

Ta-da

DSC00494.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SurGie

Hmm, I have seen a lot of people on the forum heat wrapping exhausts... I was planning to leave it as it is because a) Half the reson I got the ss manifold was because its shiny and pritty ;) and b, I plan to keep the original intake ducting (bar the hot air gubbins) so the engine should pick up nice cool air from the front of the bay anyway.

 

I am assuming its hot air off the exhaust being picked up by a k&n on the back of the engine which makes exhaust wrap needed? Please let me know if I'm wrong because I'll be fitting it soon.

 

 

There is a place HERE that coats exhausts, i dont trst that heat wrap stuff it's cheap and can catch on fire. They also do a shiny coat so it stays that way.

 

Good work so far.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
cRaig

I had my exhaust coated by those people in Warrington, quality and finish are very good, but it certainly wasnt cheap! I would still recommend it, and they do a chrome finish, if thats what you want! :

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ktm_kate

Now the engine is it the jobs have been a bit mundane; wiring, brackets etc.

 

News of the week is the decision to get new wheels..

 

The plan all along was to stick with 1.6 alloys, refirb'ed including the polished centers. But my set are a mix of Speedline and SMR and not in great shape. Then, whilst hunting on ebay for a set of speedlines to refurb I saw these:

 

07052011858.jpg

 

14 inch Ouragan/Nimrod alloys off a 206.

 

It was an impulse buy and I'm not 100% sure they will be used in the end (I'm still looking for a set of the speedlines to refirb as a plan B . )

 

They are 5.5 J14 ET34 verses the 205's 5.5 J14 ET 24 so 10mm hubcentric spacers all round and they should fit spot on.

 

I had a front wheel off while I was messing about with the brake lines so I stuck one on to see the effect..

 

08052011859.jpg

 

It also confirmed the need for spacers as the rim hits a bracket on the strut, I'm not sure if they would clear callipers as none are fitted at the min.

 

In general I am not a fan of putting flashy/modern wheels on retro cars, in fact its a pet hate of mine along with 'lexus look' lights etc. But radial spokes are a fairly timeless design and I think they don't look too 'out of era'.

I am tempted to look into getting a set of centre caps with the proper '80s lion on tho... just to take them back in time a bit :) Anyone know if 1.9 speedline centre caps would fit?

Edited by ktm_kate

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SurGie

From the look of them id say no, they look too small.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
allye

No way! They look really good, how can they look too small when they are 1" bigger than standard!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ktm_kate

No way! They look really good, how can they look too small when they are 1" bigger than standard!

 

 

I think SurGie is answering my question about the centre caps..

 

Glad you like them tho, I think 14" is the best size for base model cars. I had 1.9 speedlines on it for about a week a few years back, but they looked too big to me so I took them off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
calvinhorse

awesome car! the dealer sticker and tax disc will really make the car! needs some banded xs steel wheels to finish it off tho!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ktm_kate

awesome car! the dealer sticker and tax disc will really make the car! needs some banded xs steel wheels to finish it off tho!

 

 

Thanks. The dealer sticker should look good, I also have a set of engine bay stickers, and sticking them all on will be the last thing I do before MOT as a sort of celebration of the end of the project.

 

 

I have the set of steels off the donor car (pic on page 2) including the original center caps, I guess they are the same as the XS wheels? I did think of cleaning them up to use as my winter wheels to save corrosion on my alloys.

Will they fit over my 1.9 vented disc / 1.6 Bendix calliper set up?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
stufarri

This looks great and it's very rare and good to see a non GTI being restored - keep up the great work.

 

Can I ask where you got the tax disc/stickers from please?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Miles

I was going to ask the same thing about the tax Disc Holders

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Flozman

This thread is cool, those nice nimrods should have 175/65 R14 tyres to fit your car. I dont think you will have any major clearance issue on the front but on my diesel there is only about a fingers width between the tyre and inner rear arch and thats with 155/75/13 and it has been lowered at least 30mm.

 

I think 10mm spacer are about right but if your wheels are poking out more check you not fouling the arch lips, the best method for this in invite over four big boned freinds and have them bounce around whilst checking the steering lock.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ktm_kate
Can I ask where you got the tax disc/stickers from please?

 

I got them from a place called DMB who I found on some ford forum. The email address is dmbgraphics@me.com

 

 

those nice nimrods should have 175/65 R14 tyres to fit your car. I dont think you will have any major clearance issue on the front but on my diesel there is only about a fingers width between the tyre and inner rear arch and thats with 155/75/13 and it has been lowered at least 30mm.

 

I'll be sticking with 175s for the nimrods (or Ouragan's as they are known on 206's) the 10mm spacers should be fine as that only puts the offset out as far as the pepperpots and they cleared even with 185 tyres.

 

 

 

This weekend I found a bit of time to work on the car and managed to get the window glass etc back in on one rear door, now the car no longer looks like a bare shell. :)

 

I spent over an hour just cleaning all the bits, its amazing how manky things look when you go to fit them to a resprayed shell..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×