Powder Coating Suspension & Sub Frames

[NNPUT 2]

I want to remove the suspension and sub frames and get them shot blasted and then powder coated.

 

Any advice on getting this done would be much appreciated!

[M@tt 77]

Subframe is pretty straight forward but I wouldn't have thought you could do struts as your likely to damage the top seals with blasting unless they are very careful (which on the whole they aren't) and then the heat is likely to damage them and the oils further. I'd just respray them in epoxy mastic 2k if you want a hard durable finish.

[Tom Fenton 1,540]

Only thing I will add, you will need to get whatever it is thoroughly clean of grease and oil before taking it, most shotblasters will not take anything caked in oil and grease.

[M_R_205 5 1 Cars]

From my experience, try and find come where that will acid etch them first! as as soon as the coating is damaged the water will creep in and sit there causing all the coating to lift, Also as tom says, try and get them nice and clean too as the shot stick to grease and oil and forms big clumps!

 

~Paul.

[NNPUT 2]

From my experience, try and find come where that will acid etch them first! as as soon as the coating is damaged the water will creep in and sit there causing all the coating to lift, Also as tom says, try and get them nice and clean too as the shot stick to grease and oil and forms big clumps!

 

~Paul.

 

 

Cheers Guys, i'll make sure everything is properly cleaned prior to taking it to the powder coaters. Theres a place near me in Reddicth who come recommended by a colleague at work - http://www.redditchshotblasting.co.uk/

[Bigtimmy 1]

I've never been a great fan of powder coating stuff because as said once it chips it lets water in and does start to degrade, and there isn't really anything you can do about it.

 

I've always had stuff blasted the given it a coat or two of 2k Epoxy primer that I use on boats, then some 2k car paint. I did my subframe, hubs and a few other bits last summer and they still look like new!

[NNPUT 2]

I've never been a great fan of powder coating stuff because as said once it chips it lets water in and does start to degrade, and there isn't really anything you can do about it.

 

I've always had stuff blasted the given it a coat or two of 2k Epoxy primer that I use on boats, then some 2k car paint. I did my subframe, hubs and a few other bits last summer and they still look like new!

 

I've read a few posts about powder coating etc. I was tempted to just get the bits shot blasted and then just paint them myself with something like hammerite smooth finish.

[Tom Fenton 1,540]

I would really advise against this, Hammerite really is the worst of the crap, it isn't even any good for painting your garden gate, let alone something on the car that gets blasted with 70mph dirt, grit, salt, etc etc. Especially after the expense of shot blasting, you want something durable that will last, not poxy Hammerite that will fall off and look gash in no time at all.

 

Personally I'm also not a fan of powder coat, I would rather acid etch prime and then spray in 2k paint from my gun.

 

Not an option for everyone I appreciate, but a friendly local bodyshop would be able to help as a fill in job I am sure.

[NNPUT 2]

I would really advise against this, Hammerite really is the worst of the crap, it isn't even any good for painting your garden gate, let alone something on the car that gets blasted with 70mph dirt, grit, salt, etc etc. Especially after the expense of shot blasting, you want something durable that will last, not poxy Hammerite that will fall off and look gash in no time at all.

 

Personally I'm also not a fan of powder coat, I would rather acid etch prime and then spray in 2k paint from my gun.

 

Not an option for everyone I appreciate, but a friendly local bodyshop would be able to help as a fill in job I am sure.

 

Ahh right, thats a no no for hammerite then!!

 

How does the 2K paint hold up against general chips and road grime?

[Tom Fenton 1,540]

Really well to be honest, short of going for a rubberised Shultz there is nothing I've come across that is better.

 

I do my alloy wheels in 2 pack, my normal set have done 4000 miles and 2 years, good clean with soapy water and they come up like new.

Edited February 27, 2011 by Tom Fenton

[SurGie 54]

2K is a harder paint so it will be a stronger paint then powder coating or cellulose, it dont chip as easily unlike the other types of finshings. Don't use 2K yourself without an air fed mask else you could get asthma from it or worse. Best get it done at a paint shop or body-shop etc.

 

I was going to get mine powder coated within the next few weeks so this thread has helped me decide that 2K is the only way for me to get my, sub frame, ant roll bar etc sorted out.

Edited February 27, 2011 by SurGie

[JRL 14 1 Cars]

My powder coated cam cover was durable up until an injector leaked and the fuel just melted the powder coated finish Definitely will not bother with that finish again plus my wheels are powder coated and especially where the centre caps are the paint chips.

[SurGie 54]

On Thewheelspecialists web site they say they put a thin power coat on their wheels first, do you think it will still be no good with water getting through ?

[JRL 14 1 Cars]

On Thewheelspecialists web site they say they put a thin power coat on their wheels first, do you think it will still be no good with water getting through ?

 

As far as im aware from factory 205 wheels were not powder coated. but what were they painted with, best try replicate that.

[welshpug 1,655]

I wonder what paint Peugeot used on their subframes originally, as that seems pretty durable, its rare you find a rotten one with all the paint missing!

 

Regarding dampers etc I'd just buy new ones, I'd be dubious about their performance if they are that bad they need re-painting.

[JRL 14 1 Cars]

Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black HIGH GLOSS (397g)

[M_R_205 5 1 Cars]

I had some stuff stove enameled about 4 years back and they have lasted very well!! im sure it was also acid etched first, i think this is the key!

[Rippthrough 98]

I wonder what paint Peugeot used on their subframes originally, as that seems pretty durable, its rare you find a rotten one with all the paint missing!

 

Regarding dampers etc I'd just buy new ones, I'd be dubious about their performance if they are that bad they need re-painting.

 

 

Zinc plated underneath, can smell it/see it bubble up out of the steel when you weld on 'em.

[dale205mills 39 7 Cars]

I used 2k paint on my underside restore last year and I would use it again, take a look at my link in my signature and you will see what I done and how it came out.

[SurGie 54]

I wonder what paint Peugeot used on their subframes originally, as that seems pretty durable, its rare you find a rotten one with all the paint missing!

 

It might be because they are usually covered in oil, mine was very rusty, although not rotten. The inner cavity on mine was red in colour much like the other cavity areas these 205's were coated with.

 

I eventually had mine done in epoxy 2k primer with 2k epoxy gloss paint. Epoxy car paint sticks/protects the steel like no other paint, even more than etch. Epoxy gloss paint will chalk out after a few years of UV damage but then the sub frame wont get much of that.

[tri_longer 25]

Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black HIGH GLOSS (397g)

 

Just done a beam refurb with this as it was very highly rated. Prior to the 3 coats of Chassis Black I put on 2 coats of the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator.

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

This is the second rear beam I've had powdercoated,

The company I use apply a thicker coat than some other examples I've seen, so it was quite durable on my last car.

Over 4/5 years the beam looked fine, just mucky, the front subframe had a few rust spots but still looked better than it did originally. but My Sump rusted through. I peeled off a big blister with water behind it and then oil dripped out.

The parts above in the engine bay, away from the winter weather were all pretty much like new. but the wiper arms needed redoing.

 

This time around I'm restoring a Cti so I'll be storing it in the winter, I've had the Sump and a few other parts that went rusty last time Zinc plated. I was going to get everything zinc plated then powdercoated, but It would take too long and I'm only using it in summer anyway.

 

Powder coating was a better option for me as it is cheap enough and the results look amazing. I'd have still had to get them shot blasted if I were to paint them myself. though it is best to smooth out any rust with emry before you send them off for powder coating as the shot blasting can leave a bumpy finish on the beam tube or any other smooth finish parts (ie not cast items like hub carriers) ss the gloss finish highlights the imperfections.

I'll get more pics up when I get the chance.

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=13601

[SurGie 54]

Just done a beam refurb with this as it was very highly rated. Prior to the 3 coats of Chassis Black I put on 2 coats of the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator.

 

I did my trailing arms in that paint (used extreme chassis black though) after a few coats of high zinc etch primer, its not an etch as such but it does have an etch effect on bare steel with up to 10% surface rust. The beam was coated in around 25 coats of both zinc primer/primer and enamel yellow, i redid it again because after it was in storage for a while i found some scratches and marks on it. This was before i knew how good epoxy/2k paints are though.

 

As said, powder coating just doesn't cut it anymore when it comes to chassis parts, my sub frame sandblasted/coated in the 2k paints was £60 via a metal coating place, this doesn't inc paint cost. So it's not that much more expensive compared to powder coating yet it will last a hell of a lot longer.

Edited May 6, 2012 by SurGie

[lemmingzappa 75 1 Cars]

If powdercoating is done properly with the correct prep work and correct powder, then it should last a for a long time. Zinc flaming is a very effective way of preventing corrosion during the shot-blasting process.

[SurGie 54]

I would really advise against this, Hammerite really is the worst of the crap, it isn't even any good for painting your garden gate, let alone something on the car that gets blasted with 70mph dirt, grit, salt, etc etc. Especially after the expense of shot blasting, you want something durable that will last, not poxy Hammerite that will fall off and look gash in no time at all.

 

Personally I'm also not a fan of powder coat, I would rather acid etch prime and then spray in 2k paint from my gun.

 

Not an option for everyone I appreciate, but a friendly local bodyshop would be able to help as a fill in job I am sure.

 

 

What was it that changed your mind on the powder coating front ?

 

 

If powdercoating is done properly with the correct prep work and correct powder, then it should last a for a long time. Zinc flaming is a very effective way of preventing corrosion during the shot-blasting process.

 

Dont get me wrong, powder coating is not foolish if done properly and will last a good while, it will also fill in the rusted rotten dimples in the steel surface, so you get a nice flat finish. For me, rust-prevention is more important than looks, especially when the chassis is usually dark anyways.

 

Epoxy 2k primer is mostly used for marine boat's, providing you have a good, very clean surface it will last over ten years with no rusting, cracking, peeling, or damage from the usual stones. I haven't had ten years to test it myself but i have been told by a reliable source that it will. Check some of the data sheets of epoxy and its very abrasion, chemical, salt, resistant.

 

This is the stuff ive used http://www.jotun.com/Jotun/Paints/20020020.nsf/wvwProductDatabase/8B7ADD42CF64641DC1256A6B0043EE55/$file/TDS%20-%20Jotamastic%2087%20-%20English%20(uk)%20-%20Issued.21.12.2011.pdf

 

Its primer, the top surface would need to be 2k black painted, so it wont go cloudy after a few years. 2k high build on top of the epoxy would help get rid of cast and rust pitt's.

 

(This post is also intended to help other project people make the most of their hard work, especially if they are going to be keeping the car for life and want it to last. It's naturally more cost effective too because it will retain rust for at least ten years, its not a troll post because trolls dont make the same effort as i do for people)