Ecu Temp Sender

[large 33]

I have been working on my 205 for the past week (replaced rad, heater matrix and resealed the thermostat housing). Filled the coolant system back up and started 1st time.

 

The car was idling for about 10 minutes no problems, then it started to miss then after another minute of lumpy running it cut out. My first thought was the ecu temp sensor plug as I have had problems with the car not starting/ cutting out and unplugging and plugging it back in has cured it in the past.

 

This time it was not to be. So I have checked for spark all looks ok on that front so have discounted the CAS, ignition amp, leads and coil.

 

I then disconnected the feed to the fuel pump (the car was not starting but was trying too, would fire now and again) and there was a noticeable difference in the way the car was trying to start. So I think I am getting fuel.

 

So I went back and looked at the ecu temp sender and plug this time I f**ked it up. So what is the best way to fool the ecu, is it by having it open circuit or shorting it out.

 

Any other suggestions welcome as to what it may be

[large 33]

OK, car is now running any ideas on what the best option would be for a temp fix for the temp sender.

 

How does it work? Does the resistance decrease as the temperature goes up?

[Anthony 1,003]

How does it work? Does the resistance decrease as the temperature goes up?

Yes. Probably best searching Google for the values, but from memory it's something roughly in the region of about 2500 ohms at 20 degrees C and 250 ohms at 90 degrees C.

 

I'm not quite sure what the issue you're having is, but surely the fix can't be any more involved than a replacement ECU temp sensor and a new connector (and length of wire as required) on the loom side? The connector is just a standard 2 pin JPT like the injectors etc which should be available from just about anywhere that sells automotive connectors.

[large 33]

Yes. Probably best searching Google for the values, but from memory it's something roughly in the region of about 2500 ohms at 20 degrees C and 250 ohms at 90 degrees C.

 

I'm not quite sure what the issue you're having is, but surely the fix can't be any more involved than a replacement ECU temp sensor and a new connector (and length of wire as required) on the loom side? The connector is just a standard 2 pin JPT like the injectors etc which should be available from just about anywhere that sells automotive connectors.

 

Thanks for the reply.

Apparently the BX engines like fuel, who would have known!

 

After my first post I wasn't entialy happy with how I had checked for fuel. So went back out and removed the pressure line from the injection rail, more air than petrol came out so that was my first clue.

So went and got £5 worth and away to go.

 

I did check the resistance of the ecu temp sender when the engine stopped; 900ohms with the temp gauge at the second line so that sort of fits with the figures you are quoting Anthony.

[welshpug 1,657]

most pugs even though the sender part numbers vary, tend to have the same resistance listed.