205 Gti6 M/c Booster Problem.

[miamigtimark 3 1 Cars]

Hi Guys. Can you help?

Recently completed my conversion but have a problem.

Have reangled the booster/master cylinder and packed out with washers (approx 6-7mm). All secure and tightened. BUT....

Little or no brakes.

Vacuum is connected from pump to booster. Manifold one is blocked off.

Anything i have missed or can look at.

Brakes were perfect pre conversion.

 

Thanks in anticipation.

[CosKev 16]

6-7mm

 

Had trouble with my brakes after doing Gti6 conversion on my 309 Gti,but mine was the opposite to yours,brakes were binding badly

 

I could only get away with 3 washers before it interfered with my brakes

 

Remove some of your washers untill you get brakes back to normal,then cut your cambelt cover/coilpack cover/cam carrier/what ever the master cylinder touches

[miamigtimark 3 1 Cars]

Thanks for the advice.

Ive already trimmed the rocker cover so it doesnt foul.Its clear of the cambelt cover also.

6-7mm may not be very accurate (cant remember exactly).

Looking at what other forum members have done (ie positioning of m/c and clearence) on their journals. Mine looks pretty much identical clearance wise.

Engine has been installed with re angled manifold etc and not just thrown in.

Ill have a go at reducing the tilt and see how i get on.

Cheers!

[welshpug 1,655]

I slotted the holes in the pedal box to allow the servo to sit higher, seemed to work perfectly fine.

[harryskid 193]

I found i had this problem on my conversion and i think the washer idea is a bodge. My brake fluid was picking up high temp from the closeness of the engine and at times the master cylinder was causing rubbing on the cam cover. Personally i think the answer is a remote servo or as i have done fitted a biased brake system. It does not seem right hacking cam belt covers ect but that's only my thoughts . I just do not see the point of doing all that work and than to take short cut bodges.

[harryskid 193]

I slotted the holes in the pedal box to allow the servo to sit higher, seemed to work perfectly fine.

 

O i had not though of that idea, better than the washer method!

[jord294 91]

if you space the m/c away from the servo, surely the push-rod length would need to be adjusted to suit

[Anthony 1,002]

if you space the m/c away from the servo, surely the push-rod length would need to be adjusted to suit

I'm assuming that they're spacing the complete servo/MC assembly away from the bulkhead... as clearly trying to space the MC away from the servo would cause numerous issues!

[Alastairh 47]

Are you sure your vacum pump is working? Try connecting it to the manifold for now.

 

Al

Edited January 1, 2011 by Alastairh

[SurGie 54]

How about using one of those servo strength plates from e-bay and getting the top half of it grounded down at the top half so the servo will be at a slightly higher angle, or grind it down more on the right side of it so the MC goes more to the rigt side of the cam cover ?

 

Could this be a slighly better idea than the washer method ?

 

Im not too sure of the slotting method because after time with heavy breaking and clutch use the servo might go downwards even if its done up tightly.

[welshpug 1,655]

Its been fine for 3 years.

[SurGie 54]

When i had my old MI16 XU10 in the 205 the only issue with the MC i had was it was rubbing against the cam cover, so before i fit the new servo with the VTS engine i will be slotting the holes further to the right to keep it away from the cam cover, thanks.

[miamigtimark 3 1 Cars]

if you space the m/c away from the servo, surely the push-rod length would need to be adjusted to suit

 

 

Ive placed the washers at the lowest part of the pedal box where its bolted to the cars bulkhead.

Gonna re check the vacuum pump and go from there.

Thanks!

[Alastairh 47]

Yeah, space the pedal box away from the bulkhead, not the MC from the servo. That sounds like a bad idea to me.

 

Al