Sad Valve

[smithy 1]

I had the SAD off the other day to test it and seemed ok apart from one of the pipes was knackered,now i think it may be sticking open slightly as idle speed sits at 1600rpm even with throttle screw (mechanical) all way out and the air one fully in.

if i clamp pipe it will drop the idle down.

 

has anyone just done away with the SAD and blanked pipes off?

if the SAD needs to be fitted can they be cleaned out or do they just need changing?

[saveloy 8]

Quite common for them to fail. The idle quality will be terrible without it. So you will need to replace it.

[DamirGTI 342]

I'd check if the black connector hasn't fallen off the SAD heater element , if it's connected , unplug it check for oxidation on terminals and perform voltage test - you'll need approx 12v (battery voltage) with the ignition ON @ the connector terminal ... slide the rubber boot off the connector as well and check the wires visually ...

 

This voltage from the black connector is needed to fully close the SAD bimetallic disc (via heater element which is inside the SAD as well ..) , without this , it'll crack open frequently especially when the coolant temp. drops down a bit like say , when driving on a flat straight road (when the engine gets more efficient cooling effect from circulating air around the car/engine and WP spins faster ..)

 

Damir

[smithy 1]

I'd check if the black connector hasn't fallen off the SAD heater element , if it's connected , unplug it check for oxidation on terminals and perform voltage test - you'll need approx 12v (battery voltage) with the ignition ON @ the connector terminal ... slide the rubber boot off the connector as well and check the wires visually ...

 

This voltage from the black connector is needed to fully close the SAD bimetallic disc (via heater element which is inside the SAD as well ..) , without this , it'll crack open frequently especially when the coolant temp. drops down a bit like say , when driving on a flat straight road (when the engine gets more efficient cooling effect from circulating air around the car/engine and WP spins faster ..)

 

Damir

 

Cheers for replies the SAD is connected and 12 volt at plug so it must just be a faulty sad,not surprising really this is first time car has been started since 2001!!!

A trip to pug dealer required then.

[205*31* 0]

Cheers for replies the SAD is connected and 12 volt at plug so it must just be a faulty sad,not surprising really this is first time car has been started since 2001!!!

A trip to pug dealer required then.

 

I wouldn't take a trip to pug for SAD be mega money I bet keep your eyes open on here quite common to pop up.

 

I started my 205 yesterday after it had been stood over 2 week and it fired straight away my SAD is really strange it seems to start to open around 3-5min of car running and will not fully close till after about 10min and it idles about 2krpm but I did fully clean mine recently.

[happygoron 2]

I'd check if the black connector hasn't fallen off the SAD heater element , if it's connected , unplug it check for oxidation on terminals and perform voltage test - you'll need approx 12v (battery voltage) with the ignition ON @ the connector terminal ... slide the rubber boot off the connector as well and check the wires visually ...

 

This voltage from the black connector is needed to fully close the SAD bimetallic disc (via heater element which is inside the SAD as well ..) , without this , it'll crack open frequently especially when the coolant temp. drops down a bit like say , when driving on a flat straight road (when the engine gets more efficient cooling effect from circulating air around the car/engine and WP spins faster ..)

 

Damir

 

This sounds similar to issues I'm having at the moment. Misses a lot when cold, once warmed up idles high (1.5-2k) for an abnormally long time. If sat in traffic then the idle will drop steadilly till it stalls. Odd thing is will idle ok after a long run on the motorway, idle will be happy at 1k ish but any traffic and she'll drop and drop and drop till she stalls. Fan cuts in and temps remain ok on the guages.

[smithy 1]

The idling troubles continue,had the sad off again today and retested it does work but what I did this time was shine a torch in and discovered it is partially open by about 2mm.

Used the adjuster and tested it again with the heater and freeze spray it opens and closes perfect now.

 

The car is now a bit lumpy on idle and on rev counter sits around 1200 rpm and drops when fan cuts in to the point of stalling,if I try to lower idle to 1k it cuts out when fan runs.

 

I am beginning to think it might be AFM related not too sure if it had the 1.9 one fitted with engine all them years back?

Will a 1600 AFM actually have an impact on the running of a 1900?

 

Also how do I tell the difference between the 2?

[DamirGTI 342]

Will a 1600 AFM actually have an impact on the running of a 1900?

 

Also how do I tell the difference between the 2?

 

Yes .. need to have matched set of engine management components/sensors

 

Can tell the difference in between the 1.6 and 1.9 AFM by looking @ the numbers stamped on the black plastic cover :

1.6 - 0 280 202 056

1.9 - 0 280 202 109

*1.9 90-94 Motronic 1.3 - 0 280 202 202

 

Damir

[smithy 1]

Thanks for info looks like that's the problem then as it has still got 1.6 AFM fitted.