Central Locking Problem

[AJPMIKE 0]

My key operated central locking seems to have failed.Looking in the search facility it looks like the 'actuator' might be at fault? Does anyone have any other possible reasons or pointers,and is this the reason i also cant get into my boot? Any pics of what i need to be looking at would be much appreciated,as my haynes manual is useless on this subject and i havent a clue where to start!!

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

It might simply be a blown fuse but if you have one key for all locks then you should still be able to get into the boot.

 

To get at the actuator you need to remove the door trim & its held to the inner skin by two 8mm hex head bolts through into the actuator body with a couple of plugs on.

 

Graham.

[AJPMIKE 0]

Cheers Graham. I hadnt thought to check the fuses,so i'll start there first! I thought not being able to get in the boot made no sense,so its just an unhappy coincidence then My key only turns less than a quarter turn in the boot lock,and im not sure if i should be pressing the lock barrel inwards when trying to open it or not? I have been without this car for 10 months and i cant remember how it should unlock to be honest!

Edited November 20, 2010 by AJPMIKE

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

The boot lock will only turn that far, similar to the door lock barrels, right to unlock & left to lock iirc.

 

With the key in the boot lock & the barrel sat as normal, turn the key to unlock & then push the boot barrel in to open the lock.

 

If it still won't work & you can get access from inside, pop the cover off (if fitted) & you can (or should be able to) turn the back of the lock by hand to unlock it.

 

Graham.

[AJPMIKE 0]

Right then,i finally got time to look further into this today..... Being locked out of the boot is caused by the failure of the central locking.This is due to the boot lock solenoid not being activated into pushing the keylock's unlocking tab into place by the rod attached between them.

I removed the interior panel on the drivers door to be confronted by what appears to be 2 different types of solenoid/actuator,both of which are connected to the door lock knob by wire rods.One of these solenoids is black in colour and smaller and cylindrical in shape,it has only 2 wires coming from it,and also the rod,at the end of which is the door lock knob.The other actuator/solenoid is grey in colour and larger and more rectangular.it has a multiplug connector on the bottom with several wires coming from it.At its other end is connected a wire rod which connects to the other rod going to the door lock knob mentioned previously. How can i tell which one of the two solenoid/actuators that i have is the faulty unit??

[AJPMIKE 0]

I think ive found the culprit,but any advice and comments still welcome if i have missed something or jumped to the wrong conclusion? I gave the smaller 2 wire solenoid 12v and it moves,but the larger 4 wire actutor was different.it has 12v permanent feed going in on the one 2 pin connector,but moving the plunger does not allow 12v going out on the other 2 wire connector.When i put 12v on the 'dead' 2 wires the central locking on the rest of the car works. I guess therefore that the larger grey 4 wire actuator is faulty.Have i missed anything,possibly?

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Has / did your car have some type of alarm with remote central locking fitted?

 

This would explain the cylindrical actuator, standard are the rectangular shape with various multiplugs in the drivers door.

 

Even with a failed control central locking actuator you should still be able to unlock the boot by the key.

 

With your door lining off, unbolt the factory actuator (2 x 8mm head scrws), unhook it from the rod & grab the end with som pliers whilst still plugged in to see if it all works when it does move but it sounds very much like you have a dead drivers door actuator.

 

Graham.

[AJPMIKE 0]

Thanks for repling again.After another look at it,it would appear the cylindrical solenoid is indeed an aftermarket item,and this is no longer in use.So,concentrating on the factory actuator, i have removed it and opened it up to see whats going on inside( i know,i shouldnt be inquisitive!).What i found was that the white plunger could be adjusted so that it activates what is best described as a double microswitch,at different positions.After adjusting it i have managed to get continuity to both of the two output pins depending on the position of the plunger,ie open or closed(up/down or in/out).When i fitted it back on the car and activated it by hand it worked once,but then didnt operate the central locking any more thereafter,despite the continuity to the terminals still being present. It does look like i need a new actuator,but i'd love to understand just what it does altogether,as theres a fair bit of electronic circuitry in there and it's obvious its not just a changover type switch Any ideas?

[AJPMIKE 0]

Something else i would like to add,is that im thinking that the passenger door actuator must be a different part to the drivers door one,as my drivers door actuator could not lift the locking knob purely by electrical activation,and you can see where extra parts of a mechanism could be fitted inside my drivers door actuator to do this.Is this correct?

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Please use some punctuation in your posts, spaces, new lines etc.

 

It makes them so much easier to read rather than one long sentance.

 

The passenger door actuator is different to the drivers on, it only has a single plug input where the drivers door actuator has two plugs & also controls the others by sending a signal voltage out to them via a relay usually on the steering column.

 

 

Graham.

[ade 4wd 11]

The above control box is only used on phase 2 cars with remote central locking. There are 2 types of drivers door solenoid, phase 1 has four wires and phase 2 has 5 wires.