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blessed6383

Help Needed Before I Scrap The Bloody Thing (205 Mi16)

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blessed6383

can i just double check the power pin position for the ecu (119) is last 3 digits of ecu wire 101 pin 1? or is it pin 18?

Edited by blessed6383

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DrSarty

Pin 18 on a 3 row Mi16 ecu is perm 12v power to retain fault codes. Pin 27 (again 3 row) is 12v switched live. This may be the same on a 2 row...BUT.....

 

and here's my real and rather blunt point for which I kind of apologise: I'm really not convinced you either know what you're doing or even what you want.

 

Do you have the ECU and loom diagrams for your 2 or 3 row ECU? Do you understand them and do you understand how difficult it is to attempt to solve your constant wiring problem questions - which I really think are self created - on an internet forum?

 

If you have and understand the diagrams it's quite easy and you'll be able to do it yourself, in fact had it done ages ago without all of your problems and moaning.

 

You have seriously had very patient advice from many perhaps thinking what I've just typed, because it really is getting silly and won't be solved properly if things continue this way.

 

As advised, put in a basic Mi engine, factory ECU and loom (no adaptors and links) and get it running right. Then upgrade and modify it later.

 

I remember when we met Chris that you didn't really get my explanation of the very basic cooling fan loom, so I really think the management side is something you need serious help on, starting from scratch and understanding it, with no bodges or attempts which are just going to make this situation continually get worse.

Edited by DrSarty

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blessed6383

well now im comletely confused with this bloody thing, fitted new coil and still wont spark.

yet fitted the other home made loom from previous bx loom made from a 205 gti loom which just connects from CAS to ignition amp and to coil with a 12v+ to battery and an earth and guess what it sparks so i know the ignition amp, coil and CAS are all working fine so why when connecting the peugeot loom up is it still not sparking :) ????? now one thing i did notice is when i switched the ignition off i got a small spark through the plug. any ideas what this means?

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welshpug

are you getting a single spark or a continuous sparking when cranking?

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blessed6383
are you getting a single spark or a continuous sparking when cranking?

 

well nothing when i have the (peugeot mi) loom in it just sparked slightly when turning ignition off

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blessed6383

if possible can anyone confirm this whire colours or fill in the blanks? for the 205 gti side can anyon confirm for a phase 2 as i know the switched live is red not blue but am unsure of others

 

cheers

 

 

Plugs in the 205

 

9 Pin Brown connector

 

1. Reverse light (wire 52, brown)?

2. Reverse light (wire 53, purple)?

3. Coolant light (wire 47, yellow)?

4. Coolant meter (wire 47a, red)?

5. Alternator (wire 7a, brown thin wire)?

6. Oil pressure meter (wire 30, lilac)?

7. Oil temp meter (wire 30a, white)?

8. Oil pressure light (wire 30b, grey)?

9. Switched positive (wire 2, light blue) red?

 

6 Pin Brown connector

 

1. Coolant fluid level (wire 47b) ?

2. Fuel pump (wire 76) white?

3. Coolant fluid level (wire M47B) ?

4. RPM meter (wire 112) grey?

5. K-Light (wire 74) ?

6. Starter motor (wire 46) blue?

 

 

Connectors from 405 loom

 

Black 14 pin connector

 

A1. Reverse light (wire 52) ?

A2. Oil temp meter (wire 30c) ?

A3. Coolant meter (47a) ?

A4. NOT USED

A5. Switched positive (wire 2) ?

A6. RPM Meter (wire 112) ?

A7. Ground (Wire M) ?

B1. Coolant light (wire 47) ?

B2. Oil pressure meter (wire 30) ?

B3. Alternator (wire 7a) ?

B6. Reverselight (wire 52) ?

 

Brown connector

 

A6. Oil level (Wire 224 Gauge not present in 205 instrument console so is not used in conversion)

A7. Oil level (Wire 224 Gauge not present in 205 instrument console so is not used in conversion)

B4. Starter motor (wire 46a) blue?

B6. K-Light (wire 74) yellow?

B7. Fuel pump (wire 76) white?

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ade 4wd

Connectors in 205 -

 

6 pin plug

 

1 - Not used

2 - Fuel pump

3 - Earth

4 - Tachometer

5 - K lamp

6 - Switched 12v

 

9 pin plug

 

1 - Reverse switch

2 - Reverse switch

3 - High coolant temp lamp

4 - Coolant gauge

5 - Alternator

6 - Oil pressure lamp

7 - Oil temperature gauge

8 - Oil pressure gauge

9 - Starter motor

 

Note - on some models the switched 12v and the starter motor wires can be reversed. Starter motor wire is blue.

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GLPoomobile

On mine (89 reg), all the wires on the 9 pin plug tally with what you've got (mine runs the blue switched live through pin 9, rather than the red starter solenoid wire). My 6 pin plug is like this (note the differences being due to it being Ph1.5)

 

1 - empty

2 - white fuel pump

3 - yellow, joins grey wire on pin 4, and then goes to coil and ign amp

4 - grey. As above, joined to pin 3 and goes to coil and amp

5 - empty

6 - red starter solenoid

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blessed6383

right have now removed the mi16 loom and checked and rechecked for breaks and that everything is where it should be on ecu pin position and related it to the wiring diagrams and everything is right! am now guessing it must be something in the car wiring ie fuse board or something as the engine loom is fine. one thing i do notice is the relays click on 1st and snd key position and my old mi they only did once not twice is this a pssible problem or is this due to it being a ph2 and my old one a ph1.5?

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blessed6383

ok this is my last attempt with this car now as just so fed up with it now and with the freezing weather its gone past fun and beginning to hate the thing and wish i'd kept my merc

 

here's what i have done today and some pictures of the loom and the plugs with postions etc if any are wrong or blank help would be greatly appreciated before

 

brown wire = alternator

blue/grey wire with yellow spade connector? maybe oil pressure?

4x green plugs = Injectors

grey plug = ICV

 

2x blue wires going into black spade connector? unknown

 

Photo0179.jpg

 

left, 2 pin black plug = to reverse switch on gearbox

middle = AFM

right black 2 pin= 12v+ feed (shunt box)

bottom right brown plug (thick blue and thin green) thick blue connects to 2x blue wires in pic above

thin green connects to green spade connector in picture below? assume temp/level sensor?

but goes nowhere?

 

 

Photo0176.jpg

 

 

bottom right, blue 2 pin= thermostat housing

red spade connector =to thermostat housing

green spade connector? refer to above, brown 2 pin plug

middle left, black 3 pin = CAS

top left black 7 pin = ignition amp module

3x red wires = sensors oil etc

ring connector = earth

top right brown 4 pin plug with blue tape = coil plug

 

Photo0174.jpg

 

2x 10amp fuses and brown and green relay and diagnostic plug

 

Photo0180.jpg

 

 

connecting my looms

205 405

thick white (76) thick white~ no number (goes to 10amp fuse then to green relay in engine bay)

thick red (2) thick blue ~no number (wire goes to coil plug pin 3 with orange coming out going to ignition amp)

blue (112) thick green sheilded (112)

brown (7) thin brown no number (alternator)

green (earth?) yellow with green stripes (goes to ignition amp)

thick blue not connected to 405 loom as was unsure which is starter wire, (connected to seperate wire not in loom at moment)

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blessed6383

have fitted the loom as it should be but am getting no live feed to prime the fuel pump now and when connecting a meter up to the switch live on the engine loom side it seems its going to ground throught the ignition amp? is this right as when disconnect the ignition amp this stops? but nothing on the fuel pump wire (76) know the pumps working fine as when run live to (76) in car fuel pump runs

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GLPoomobile

Download the CAPS program (it's stickied on here somewhere, but note that it doesn't run on Win 7), then use the data from that and spend a couple of hours back probing and comparing readings to the CAPS data. Concentrate on your coil and ign amp terminals, and the FI and FP relays.

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blessed6383

cheers GL have the caps program will give it ago and see how i get on

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