[car_overhaul] Track Hack Refesh & Tidy Up.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Good news, its almost ready to go back together, shame its snowing again here.

 

Ater I removed the temporary aluminium tape to protect the bare edges from developing to much surface rust from being stood unprotected (i only the repair had been as easy as putting the tape on ).

 

 

My mate turned up as promised on Tuesday & set to welding the plate in which was done in about an hour.

 

 

I then attacked the edges to flatten the welds down a bit before covering it with aluminised filler to smooth it over.

 

 

 

Then once it had gone off I sanded the filler down & gave it a good coat of black hammerite in just above freezing conditions.

 

 

I'm going to leave it to fully cure over the weekend & then give it a good coat of underseal before I start to put things back into the shell & finish the changes to the engine wiring I'm doing.

 

Pressure washed the gearbox & subrame & bought some new goodies to fit whilst everything is of the car.

 

I'm painting the gearbox end cover whilst it clean.

 

Got an input shaft seal & gasket coming from Miles, bought some new Motaquip wishbones & finally using some of the new genuine front arb bushes I have.

 

 

Graham.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Can you look at those bones, They should be made by Ocap and not Motaquip anymore

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

I had a quick look before paying for them to make sure they still had the correct Kleber oe spec bushes but I'll take them out of the packets & have a better look.

 

They've gone up about £6 each (+ vat)since I last got some though.

 

Are the Ocap bones worse quality or the same?

 

Graham.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

The label is stuck over the Ocap one and the ball joint is Ocap, Mind I have run loads of these now and so far so good

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Took them out of the bags & they are Ocap ones.

 

They had manufacturer dates (I assume) stamped on of 09/07 & 10/07.

 

Ocap are italian originally so might not be to bad quality, it looks like eurocarparts can also supply them but for more than I paid than at Motaquip.

 

Took a look through the Ocap website & things don't look all bad, they make a lot of the steering & suspension parts with the correct oe pug part numbers.

 

Maybe they've made them all along.

 

Graham.

[welshpug 1,661]

Do the bushes have the additional ring inside them on one pair and a fat centre butsh in the other? that's what o.e bushes and Motaquip/Kleber bushes are like (o.e were marked Kleber)

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Do the bushes have the additional ring inside them on one pair and a fat centre butsh in the other? that's what o.e bushes and Motaquip/Kleber bushes are like (o.e were marked Kleber)

I had a quick look before paying for them to make sure they still had the correct Kleber oe spec bushes

Proper oe spec bushes fitted at all positions.

 

Graham.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Not a massive amount progress recently but it is getting there again.

 

With the engine bay empty, as mentioned above I decide it was a good time to it the new fuel pipes in place of the rubber fuel hose I fitted when I bought the car as it had sprung a leak in the pressure feed line.

 

I removed the old return line & used it as a rough pattern to bend the new one ready to it but because the clips running underneath the car were nicely aged & cold weather doesn't bode well for old plastic so several of the tangs broke when I removed the old pipe.

 

I ordered some new ones from Peugeot (2287.07) & once I was happy with the shape of the new pipe made the other to closely mirror it while the clips turned up at my local Pug dealers.

 

 

Ready to fit this week.

 

I've also cleaned a bit more rust from the bulkhead area & gave it a coat of black hammerite after a coat with Dinitrol Converust RC900 had dried.

 

A mate has also offered me use of a compressor & spray gun after I mentioned I was ready to paint some underseal on so I hope to do that this week.

 

In between these jobs I have finished rebuilding the subrame with its new anti-roll bar bushes & wishbones.

 

 

I also fitted the BakerBM phosphur bronse bush kits I've had for ages into the gear change quadrant to replace the aged oe plastic bushes.

 

Just the gearbox idler shaft seal & clutch arm bushes to replace & wiring tidying to complete.

 

Then its ready to commence the refitting of everything.

 

Graham.

[Anthony 1,003]

A mate has also offered me use of a compressor & spray gun after I mentioned I was ready to paint some underseal on so I hope to do that this week.

Only thing that I'd be slightly dubious about is undersealing a car when it's cold and wet and the car lives outside - trapping moisture between the metalwork and underseal can't do much either for the potential for it to rust nor the chances of the underseal not peeling and flaking down the line I wouldn't have thought.

 

I've no idea how much truth or risk there is with this, but it's something worth keeping in mind anyway.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Good point Anthony, maybe I'll wait until I (hopefully) have it in a garage & its warmed up a bit.

 

It won't see much wet use (if any) between now & spring so I think it can wait.

 

Better to reduce the possibility than risk making a moisture trap.

 

Graham.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Another small update, swapped the springs from the Koni kit supplied lowering ones to the PLR 180lb tarmac spec springs & fitted a new gearbox input shaft oilseal.

 

 

Just got to sort some new clutch arm bushes after destroying the lower one when taking it apart.

 

Just want the weather to warm up enough suitable to spray underseal.

 

Graham.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Look what turned up at my local Peugeot dealers parts counter today;

 

 

The correct yellow clutch fork arm bushes, part number 217514 & 217522.

 

I forgot to order the clutch arm pin & they didn't have them in stock I called at a local hardware store & got a 7mm roll pin with a 4mm one to fit inside.

 

Bushes fitted & clutch arm back on.

 

 

 

Now I just need a couple of warmer days when I'm off work so I can get the underseal on the bulkhead etc & I can start putting things back into the shell.

 

Graham.

[Anthony 1,003]

Aren't the clutch fork bushes meant to be white for a 205?

[welshpug 1,661]

Earlier ones were yellow afaik, not sure specifically what the difference was, I believe the offset of the bushes and the fork welded to the arm differ.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

• 2175 22
  
• FORK BEARING
  
• JN - YELLOW
  - UNTIL DATE 19930404
   
  2175 20
  
• FORK BEARING
  
• BA - WHITE
  - SINCE DATE 19930407
  

 

All the 205 boxes I've got have yellow afaik.

 

Any from other models have white.

 

Graham.

[TT205 42]

Keep up the good work mate - getting near eh!!

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Keep up the good work mate - getting near eh!!

Yeah, gradually getting there.

 

Just need a decent day or two when I'm off work to underseal the bukhead & underfloor so I can start putting bits back in again & then ring Wayne about a remap.

 

Graham.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Not much of an update but as its dry & warm (er) than of late I'm hoping to do some form of undersealing tomorrow & when thinking about it over the weekend I decided to drop the fuel tank & treat above it as well.

 

Graham.

[Anthony 1,003]

Not much of an update but as its dry & warm (er) than of late I'm hoping to do some form of undersealing tomorrow & when thinking about it over the weekend I decided to drop the fuel tank & treat above it as well.

Worth having a grinder with a wire wheel and some form of rust curer/proofer to apply first, as if yours is anything like the 205's I've dropped the tanks on in the past few years, there will be a fair amount of rust present around the sides of the tank, in the corners going towards the rear footwells, and possibly around the rear seat bases as well (although this seems to rust out of sight initially from inbetween two panels). Usually nothing like as bad as 309's suffer in this area, but there's certainly often atleast patches of heavy surface corrosion present.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Anthony, see below, bad enough but it could've been much worse & has highlighted something to else to tackle once the front end is done.

 

I finally got a few more bits done yesterday & today but have discovered more work at the back end once the front is finished but that can be done quickly & easily when its on the road.

 

I dropped the fuel tank yesterday which was fun.

 

Of course the jubilee clip around the filler hose was rusted solid & I had to snap it off to be able to drop the tank but they are easy to replace so I wasn't concerned about it.

 

 

I cleaned the tank mounting studs as best I could with the beam still fitted & after spraying the nuts with I could spin it right up the threads by finfgers & then got the 13mm socket on the mounting nuts to drop the tank.

 

 

One came undone perfectly & wound right of the threads without any problems but the other nut had seen better days & the 13mm socket just wouldn't grip it.

 

 

I found a good 12mm socket & managed to hammer that over the old nut which thankfully started to turn. I was worried the stud was turning & only seconds away from shearing off. Luckily it didn't & I'll wait until the next time I drop the tank to replace both tank studs.

 

Once the tank was lowered I was greated with a fair amount of loose surface rust so this is what was left after attacking it with a wire brush;

 

 

 

I then coated the area with Granville rust cure & left it to dry overnight.

 

 

 

Today I treated the area with some anti corrosion treatment I got from work & can be cleaned off quite easily when I return to drop the tank down again to fix it properly.

 

 

 

 

I also replaced the two flexi fuel pipes from the pump to the new rigid pipes I've made but realised I hadn't got the correct / /proper fuel hose clamps so after ringing my local motor factors who only sell normal jubilee clips it was back to eBay to buy some which I hope will arrive tomorrow.

 

The wiring is 95% done, all I've got to do is recrimp the diagnostic socket where I've shortened the wires & then either recrimp the relocated mix pot or rewire it to take a lambda sensor instead.

 

Slowly but surely its going back together at last.

 

Graham.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Another small update.

 

I've done the three crimps on the diagnostics socket but after some more research about swapping the mixture pot for a lambda sensor I'm intending to do this swap as well.

 

Looks easy enough, assuming I can find the correct 0 261 200 217 AX GTI or 106 1.4 Xsi cat ecu of course.

 

All it needs is to reposition one wire in the ecu plug, swap one for a shielded cable & then run a 12v feed from either the coil pack or fuel pump relay.

 

I need the lambda sensor red & white plugs as well but I'm off to the scrapyard to see if I can gain most of the loom from a breaker next week including the shielded cable.

 

Fuel pipes are back on with some new clips under the car, they still need some minor final shaping but I did the end union for the fuel filter yesterday so thats now back in place in the engine bay.

 

Hopefully by this time next week I'll have the engine, box & subframe etc refitted.

 

Graham.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

I paid a visit to hallowed ground yesterday (my old fave local scrapyard ) & was allowed inside to go search for a suitable loom & remove it.

 

Found the longest one I could in an 806 so removed it complete with lambda for £30.

 

 

Within half an hour of taking the above picture I'd stripped it down so I just have to unpin the ecu plug for the loom.

 

 

Graham.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Another small update.

 

When I was looking round the engine bay at the start of last week I decided to remove the original drivers side engine mount & replace it with a BBM one I'd bought from Stew205 a while back.

 

With the old mount removed, I started to look in the places I was certain I'd seen the new mount & buffers but ended up ringing Stew to order another.

 

I've just fitted it in today but also realised that with how I have the car sat outside I can't open the drivers door far enough to partially remove the dash & get the ecu loom out for the Lambda sensor rewire.

 

I also decided last week on the lakes tour that after I'd chipped a flake of hammertie when fitting the fuel pipes I was going to redo the bulkhead paint now the weather has warmed up & dried out.

 

Yesterday I order a few POR15 bits from Frost & cleaned the anti corrosive coating I'd put on ready for me to strip the hammerite off.

 

Looking at things again though, I should be able to move the car across slightly to get enough access so I'll attempt to remove the loom over this weekend during my days off work rather than it having to wait until I'd got the car back on its wheels to turn it round.

 

I've got some new floor plugs waiting for collection at Peugeot so I'll collect those today ready for the interior refitting later.

 

Graham.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Quick update (more to follow later today hopefully).

 

Yesterday I did the ecu wiring changes for the lambda sensor & intend to start refitting the loom behind the dash this afternoon.

 

I've also stripped the hammerite off & re-painted the bulkhead area with the Por-15 rust encapsulator & then with Por-15 chassis black.

 

Not the original colour but it's better quality paint than hammerite & barely noticable in the engine bay once its got the engine etc back in.

 

Graham.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Even though I've been busy with other stuff recently I've managed to get a few more things done on the shell & its almost ready to start refitting bits.

 

I got the lambda loom wired into my ecu one evening, took about 30 minutes to do the ecu pins & join the lambda earth into the ecu loom then I rebuilt the ecu plug & taped the loom back up ready to refit under the dash.

 

 

Then with the order from Frost here, I cleaned the bulkhead with some solvent & then stripped the hammerite off.

 

Once that was cleaned I wiped the surface over with Por15 prep before ready & two coats of Por15 rust prentive paint & a final coat of chassis black.

 

 

I also replaced all the fuel pipe underbody clips & gave the pipes the final bends to fit.

 

 

I used extra flexi hose on the return pipe after I kinked it when bending it & couldn't be sure if it had fractured or not so figured it's better & easier to do this now instead of when its back together finding a leak.

 

I also decided that because I needed a lambda boss fitting to my exhaust I'd make use of an old four branch manfiold I had with e loose ball joint in need of replacement.

 

 

I had a brain wave that while getting this replaced by a flexi joint I could have the pipe from it bent to follow the orginal system & connect straight up to the 1.9 GTI cat centre system, keeping the standard backbox I have.

 

This is being done now & hopefully I'll have it back tomorrow.

 

Just got to route the loom back into the engine bay & refit the bulkhead grommet before I can start to refit the engine etc.

 

I could be putting the engine in now but don't want to leave it without the subframe & I can't fit that until I have the manifold back.

 

Back to work on Saturday though so that won't happen until maybe next Wednesday.

 

Graham.