Engine Oil Renewal Time Stick With Magnatec?

[davey205 7 1 Cars]

I have always used Magnatec 10 - 40 is this ok or is there a better alternative for an ageing engine? 1600 - 90,000 .

[JRL 14 1 Cars]

Have you ever tried oil additives? slick 50 or lucas oil stabiliser? You can also get wyns engine flush they claim to improve engine compression by coating everything in teflon. I used to get oil cheap and Id drop the oil out fill it up drain it again and then fill back up with quality stuff gave it a good flush.

Saying that you just cant beat regular changes with good quality oil!

Edited October 12, 2010 by JRL

[TheLarneMan 4]

I'm not sure what oil is recommended for your 1.6, but my Mi16 used various makes of 10w-40 for years until the last service when I was recommended Valvoline VR1 20w-50. I've only done about 200 miles or so since the change, but it has definitely quietened the engine a bit. Not as 'tappety'.

[CaptainK 11]

I think in the Peugeot manual it says to use a 10w40 semi-synthetic so that oil will be fine for normal daily usage of the car. However, that was written ages ago before progress in oil technology was made. Personally I'd go for a good synthetic 10w40 or a 5w40 rated oil (as long as you are not heavily track racing the car in hot situations).

 

I wouldn't go for anything "thicker" than a "40" rated oil in one of our naturally aspirated engines as thats too thick for the engine and won't get upto temperature correctly in our engines (especially in winter) and will just cause the oil pump to labour more pushing it around the engine and thus increase fuel consumption a little. Granted as said above it does make the engine less tappety because its thicker and thus masks the noise.

 

Personally I use a fully synthetic 5w40 oil called Silkolene Pro S 5w40. Granted its overkill and rather expensive, but I figure its worth it. Loosely, the "5w" bit relates to its viscosity whilst at low temperatures, the lower it is the quicker and easier the oil is to pump around the engine from cold starting the engine. And again, loosely speaking the "40" relates to its viscosity at higher temperatures and the higher the number the higher the temperature it can get too without shearing, but having it too high will mean the oil will remain too thick at normal operating temperatures and will just cause drag on the engine and oil pump and make you use more fuel.

[DamirGTI 342]

What ever you do , stay clear of the oil additives , especially ceramic/teflon based stuff ... no need for this , use quality engine oil and replace it regularly with OE oil filter .. nothing wrong with 10W-40 semi synthetic , but as said , id go for something better like proper synthetic 5w-40 or 10W-50 if using the car harder ..

 

(personally , id avoid Castrol Magnatec , don't have good experience with it .. and Valvoline oils as well .. remember these two brands don't have an oil refinery , so they're buying base oils from others and just mix up the additive package .. they're popular just because , kinda "brand name" , so as "Coca Cola" ... doesn't necessary reflect on the quality there's much better oils out there .. )

 

Damir

[welshpug 1,657]

I wouldn't call 90k miles aged, Total Quartz 7000 is fine in them, its what peugeot recommend IIRC

[Anulfo 22]

I think in the Peugeot manual it says to use a 10w40 semi-synthetic so that oil will be fine for normal daily usage of the car. However, that was written ages ago before progress in oil technology was made. Personally I'd go for a good synthetic 10w40 or a 5w40 rated oil (as long as you are not heavily track racing the car in hot situations).

 

I wouldn't go for anything "thicker" than a "40" rated oil in one of our naturally aspirated engines as thats too thick for the engine and won't get upto temperature correctly in our engines (especially in winter) and will just cause the oil pump to labour more pushing it around the engine and thus increase fuel consumption a little. Granted as said above it does make the engine less tappety because its thicker and thus masks the noise.

 

Personally I use a fully synthetic 5w40 oil called Silkolene Pro S 5w40. Granted its overkill and rather expensive, but I figure its worth it. Loosely, the "5w" bit relates to its viscosity whilst at low temperatures, the lower it is the quicker and easier the oil is to pump around the engine from cold starting the engine. And again, loosely speaking the "40" relates to its viscosity at higher temperatures and the higher the number the higher the temperature it can get too without shearing, but having it too high will mean the oil will remain too thick at normal operating temperatures and will just cause drag on the engine and oil pump and make you use more fuel.

 

 

fully synthetic oil will be too thin.

[DamirGTI 342]

.. so ? yes it is "thinner" than 10w or 15w oil , but better still cos the most engine wear takes place until the engine reaches operating temp. so the lower -w- rating can only be a benefit not a downside .. + proper synthetic oil (HC are also good ..) has much more to give than semi synthetic

 

Anyway , as you might know , all these 5w-40 , 10w-40 , 15w-40 oils are the same @ 100 deg. C ...

 

Id go with a synthetic oil without a doubt .. im not a fan of statement "it's an old engine , it needs semi synthetic oil"

 

Damir

Edited October 12, 2010 by DamirGTI

[2-Pugs 57]

What ever you do , stay clear of the oil additives , especially ceramic/teflon based stuff ... no need for this , use quality engine oil and replace it regularly with OE oil filter .. nothing wrong with 10W-40 semi synthetic , but as said , id go for something better like proper synthetic 5w-40 or 10W-50 if using the car harder ..

 

(personally , id avoid Castrol Magnatec , don't have good experience with it .. and Valvoline oils as well .. remember these two brands don't have an oil refinery , so they're buying base oils from others and just mix up the additive package .. they're popular just because , kinda "brand name" , so as "Coca Cola" ... doesn't necessary reflect on the quality there's much better oils out there .. )

 

Damir

 

+1 - almost

 

Simply use a good quality oil and a genuine filter and you won't go far wrong. I've used magnatec before and never had an obvious problem with it. Oil additives should be renamed 'snake oil' IMHO. Total utter complete crap. if they were that magical they'd be incorperated into the engine oil in the first place. I have also seen claims in adverts for this type of stufff that would barely stand up to pub chat, let alone in a court of law.

[JRL 14 1 Cars]

many people say use a good oem oil filter what if you dont?

[blessed6383 0]

I've always used magnatec 10 40 in my mi16 and never had any issues with it and had a rebuild about 10k ago seems fine to me

[Anulfo 22]

many people say use a good oem oil filter what if you dont?

 

'Cheapie' motorfactor filters are generally of poor quality,made in china,with nothing more than flutted cardboard to filter the oil.Don't forget its job is to filter out crap and stop it entering the engine!!I always use Peugeot original parts here.

[davey205 7 1 Cars]

I'm keen to take advantage of opie oils free shipping, I have looked but I can't see if they supply sump plugs and washers, does anyone know?

[welshpug 1,657]

I often get a free one with an oil filter from peugeot.

[CaptainK 11]

fully synthetic oil will be too thin.

How do you figure that? A 10w40 oil is a 10w40 oil regardless of whether its semi or full synthetic. Its just that the full synthetic has better shear protection. A 5w40 full synthetic oil is NO THINNER at operating temperature than a 10w40 and at operating temperature is when an oil is at its "thinnest". The "40" part indicates this as it relates to its "thickness" whilst at operating temperature. The 5w part serves to indicate its slightly thinner at cold starting than a 10w oil. However, an oil when cold is far thicker than an oil at operating temperature so it can't be "too thin" then. The "?w" (e.g. 5w in my case) only serves to help protect the engine at first cold start better than the 10w as its slightly thinner and thus will circulate around the engine better than the 10w.

 

As I said above, a good 10w40 is perfectly fine for our engines. I just prefer the extra protection (and overkill ) of the fully synthetic 5w40.

Edited October 13, 2010 by CaptainK

[Anthony 1,003]

'Cheapie' motorfactor filters are generally of poor quality,made in china,with nothing more than flutted cardboard to filter the oil.Don't forget its job is to filter out crap and stop it entering the engine!!I always use Peugeot original parts here.

Also, many pattern oil filters don't have a non-return valve in them, so it takes an extra few moments for the engine to get oil pressure.

 

There was a good link that someone put on here a good few months (maybe years ) back to a site where someone had taken apart several different brands of oil filter, and the difference in quality between them was extremely obvious. Certainly an interesting read.

 

EDIT - found what I think is the site, namely http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html. American based, but many of the common filter manufacturers are covered, particularly in the "German" section. Like I said, makes interesting reading

[Baz 421]

There was a good link that someone put on here a good few months (maybe years ) back to a site where someone had taken apart several different brands of oil filter, and the difference in quality between them was extremely obvious. Certainly an interesting read.

 

http://www.track-monkey.co.uk/oil_filter.htm

[JoshGti 8]

I love reading oil posts on forums, i think theyre briliant and promote the best bickering amongst even the closest of users.

 

The below is just FOOD FOR THOUGHT, not gospel.

 

As far as my experience working with oil and having an understanding of it through work and a lot of the above comments i find to be useless and a lot to be true and a lot to be false, again just ANOTHER opinion from me so people are free to take note or not.

 

A not to bear in mind, is that ALL oild have to meet specified SAE grades and tests to be allowed in engines, so your cheap oil will be very close to your expensive oils.

 

Firstly, the term "thin" is hilarious, the 10w/40 are viscosity grades which is how fast the fluid will flow, the first number being cold viscocity and the second number being the operating temp viscocity. The lower the number at the start then the faster it will flow through your engines at colder temperatures, as a rule of thumb, you can pretty much always go down a grade on the first number, not the second.

 

So if 10w/40 oils are recommended then you can fill up with 5w/40 and 0w/40, but i wouldnt change the higher number.

 

Think about this, your engine is tired, so you fill up with "high mileage" oil, which is 10w/50, so instead of this nice easy to move around "thinner" 40 grade, youve just given your tired 20-25 year old engine this nice mollasess to run around in, imagine how happy its going to be with you.

 

As for additvies, especially slick 50's ptfe products (dont get me wrong, they make good products) but google how hot PTFE has to be to bond with items like your everyday pots and pans, then read the claims on the back of the slick 50 box....

 

Personally, wynns oil flush (gets most, if not all the carbon deposits out) will make the oil come out of the plug like p**s, which is what you want. And on a tuned engine like ours, regardless of age, i would use 5w/40 FULLY synthetic, every time.

 

Oh and finnally (then i will shut up, as im not even a driver yet) if you have an oil leak, dont think, oh ill put "thicker" oil in as you will only clog the leak (which will no doubt return when you flush the engine next time round) with carbon deposits, its leaking because its a dodgey seal

 

Rant over, sorry.

Edited October 13, 2010 by JoshGti

[DamirGTI 342]

EDIT - found what I think is the site, namely http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html. American based, but many of the common filter manufacturers are covered, particularly in the "German" section. Like I said, makes interesting reading

 

Been reading that a fair few times , excellent read

 

Think about this, your engine is tired, so you fill up with "high mileage" oil, which is 10w/50, so instead of this nice easy to move around "thinner" 40 grade, youve just given your tired 20-25 year old engine this nice mollasess to run around in, imagine how happy its going to be with you.

 

.. not quite an issue here , wouldn't call 50 grade oil "high mileage" , there's some "fancy" oils out there called "high mileage" but they're usually filled with additives (such as MoS , and PTFE as well in smaller dosage ..) in order ,at least they say so, to seal up the worn out cylinders/rings and engine gaskets/seals ... but they're mostly semi synthetic stuff 10w-40 grade .. might point out Valvoline Max Life - utter crap , every single engine in which i've had this oil had developed some kind of crappy engine noise (valve train , hydraulic lifters as particularly ..) + this oil burns out/evaporates like s*it .. never ever will be using that one again .. but then , Germain , "Liqui Moly MoS" oil is a good un ..

 

The 50 grade oil will be necessary in higher stressed , modified engines not "tired ones" , where the higher oil temp. is problem (myself , im using 5W-50 oil because of this ..) ... cos , like we need to protect our engines during the first few miles until the engine reaches operating temp with lower -W- rating oil , we must do so as well when it runs @ operating temp especially if driving harder and if engine isn't a bog standard one cos now the things tend to heat up more severe inside .. 50 rating oil helps here keeping things together @ higher oil temp. , and if you look at some Hp dyno testing with various oil grades you'll see that there isn't really a noticeable difference in between say 5W-50 and 5W-40 oils ..

 

It's not just a lubricating issue , it's friction control , internal parts cooling , combustion pressure sealing , rust/corrosion protection , easy starting , combustion chamber deposit control , resistance to oil foaming , generally keeping the engine clean ..

 

Regarding the Slick stuff , well , the fact that they end up in court with this product speaks for itself ... i would ONLY use/try this PTFE crap in well worn out engine which is severely down on compression , and for experimental purposes ..

 

Damir

[SurGie 54]

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/Viscosity-Explanation.pdf

 

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/lubricating...odified-car.pdf

[CaptainK 11]

The below is just FOOD FOR THOUGHT, not gospel.

Good to see in my limited knowledge of oil that I got it pretty much spot on in my posts. A good read, thanks

[JoshGti 8]

Good stuff from all the experienced members on here too, especially damir, the thing mentioned about the 50 grade oils in modified engines is spot on as they tend to (especially turboed applications) run hotter. I just didnt fancy goin on and on....etc about the same subject haha

 

I think i edited it twice after i posted to add little bits i missed in. But once people start writing in depth things about oild to actually get people thinking, the proper answers tend to come out which is always helpful to all, so as written above, good stuff to read.

[Baz 421]

Personally I don't bother using anything special, just generic 10w40 semi synth in average cars, and use some real cheapo fleet oil or some proper flushing oil every other oil change or so.

 

As someone said, all oils are essentially the same whether £5 or £50 a gallon.

Edited October 14, 2010 by Baz